Novice First Build: The Jawbone

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by Slowtwitch, Jan 1, 2019.

  1. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    Aah, yes that could work! thx
     
  2. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    IMG_20190131_114642.jpeg I just opened the hole a bit more to the floor of the cavity, so it should work fine now
     
  3. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    For the pup wire from the neck cavity, I just decided to router a slot (it's under the pickguard). Once again progressive deepining and the fence is placed with the masking tape trick
    IMG_20190131_114612.jpeg
    IMG_20190131_120423.jpeg
     
  4. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    I'm thinking I can probably do the roundover edges now. Anything I missed before I do the roundovers? Drilling of bridge holes I'll leave till the bridge arrives

    Not quite sure what size roudover bit to use yet,so I'll start with the smallest I have - a 3/16" bit that'll give me this profile....
    IMG_20190131_131711.jpeg
    The next size I have is 1/4"

    This is the Veritas Portlander which is a major part of the inspiration for this build. It's definitely got more square edges than a Strat, but not as little as a Tele I think.
    Screen+Shot+2018-01-15+at+12.31.40+PM.png

    Any thoughts?
     
  5. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Doctor of Teleocity Silver Supporter

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    Why not just use a couple clamps for holding the fence in place instead of masking tape and superglue?
     
  6. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    My G clamps can't always reach or then I can't sit the body flat with the clamps in the way. Or maybe I'm just enjoying my "new found trick" hahaha
     
  7. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    Started with the back face to see what it looks like with the 3/16" bit
    IMG_20190131_161802.jpeg
     
  8. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    On to the front face edge with the 3/16" roundover. I'm very pleased with the result and glad I didn't go bigger. Sanded it smooth and it it looks the part
    IMG_20190201_131419.jpeg
    IMG_20190201_131501.jpeg

    Neck pocket edges cleaned up
    IMG_20190201_131356.jpeg
     
  9. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    I'm about to start with sanding sealer to fill all the grain voids. This Ash wood, although a hard wood, it is quite porous and the open grain does need filling.
     
  10. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    In terms of weight, it is heavier than my MIA strat and Epi LP. the Stat and LP weighs 3.7kg. Currently the raw body and neck weighs in at 3.8kg (8.38 pounds).

    Not quite an anchor, but definitely a heavier guitar which I don't think will bother me
     
  11. RickyRicardo

    RickyRicardo Friend of Leo's

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    Are you going to try and fill with just sanding sealer? If so it will take a lot of material to fill ash. I spray a coat of sealer then grain fill with tinted drywall putty, sand level then start my finish process.
     
  12. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    The paintshop guy said it should be fine, but I'll take your advise further thx
     
  13. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    :confused: I never double checked the neck piece on the body to see how it lines up wit the neck. I always knew my template was slightly larger than needed to stay on the save side, but somehow forgot about along the way
    It turns out to be way too much...
    IMG_20190202_091502.jpeg

    Darn, I thought I'm done shaping, but it's back to router and sanding
    Put up a small fence in the pocket to router flush, hand shaped to blend in the curve, and then a bit of roundover routing
    IMG_20190202_104353.jpeg

    Punched all the drill holes: neck pocket, 2 x strap button spots and Input jack

    Number ONE build for me
    IMG_20190202_114020.jpeg
     
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  14. mangus

    mangus Tele-Meister

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    As someone who's got three build going on, as many jigs and fixtures in my shop I would like to salute your dedication and focus. Great job
     
  15. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    Thank you sir!
     
  16. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    First layer of sanding sealer 50% thinned with thinners
    IMG_20190202_143534.jpeg

    waited an hour and then :eek::eek::eek: Just as I started with the second layer 100% sealant, the weather turned and the sky turned black. The sealant turned crumbly as I applied it!!!! I assume it is the humidity. I panicked and carried on with the 50% thinned solution which worked better. I'll let it dry overnight and check tomorrow
     
  17. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    Here's some things I've learnt so far on this journey:

    1) I really enjoy this build. It's very satisfying working with wood and I'm quite sure this will not be my last build

    2) I'm very grateful to all of you and this forum for inspiration and advise. It would not be possible without you.(special mention to Mr. T Downs for his drawings)

    3) I'm really glad that I made my own templates and didn't buy them. To me it really feels like I've started from scratch printing A4 paper and cutting out the shapes. And even though I used the standard drawings, my templates are not 100% accurate, it's hand shaped by me with subtle differences

    4) On templates, really don't use the master templates, even if you're confident you won't nick it with the router. MAKE WORKING TEMPLATES

    5) Learn to be okay with doing things over. There are many steps I had to redo so far, part of the learning curve. BUT I'm glad I did in order to get a great end result

    6) I'm glad I used a good quality hard wood, It's so much easier working with it than a soft wood like SA Pine (which has been the only wood besides MDF, I've ever worked with)

    7) Thinking about making my own neck still freaks me out

    8) Safety First
     
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  18. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    Reclaim MDF, make working template for next time
    IMG_20190203_120607.jpeg

    The sanding sealer ended up not too bad once I lightly sanded it 600 grit. Decided to give it 1 or 2 more coats to see if I can fill all voids and also applied first 2 layers to the top.

    Made a stand with 4 screws as pins fitting in the pup cavities so I can flip the body with wet paint (saw this on one of the build threads in TDPRI)
    IMG_20190203_155105.jpeg
     
  19. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    So while I wait for our South African Postal Service to deliver a bunch of parts from Ebay which I ordered early December(!!!), look what came across my way :):):)

    IMG_20190206_094823.jpeg

    I don't know wood types and what to look for really when looking for body wood, neck and fretboard woods.

    What am I looking for for a good neck wood and fretboard wood?

    The piece on the left is KIAAT (Southern Africa indigenous specie) and on the right Rhodesian Teak or commonly known as railway sleeper wood.

    The Kiaat is 60mm thick and I'm thinking it could make a nice next body albeit a 3 piece body. Would it work for a neck???
    Here's the specs:
    Screenshot from 2019-02-06 10:37:39.png

    The Rhodesian Teak is known to blunt tools in no time and many workshops won't even cut it for you - high in silica content. BUT it is hard ( Janka hardness is 2990 - close to Brazilian Rosewood of 3500), so I'm thinking to use it for fretboards. If I can use it, I'll be able to get in a number of boards from this piece

    I was surprised how quickly I could cut it with a hand saw which gives me hope
    IMG_20190206_100719.jpeg

    Here's the specs:
    Rhodesian Teak.png

    Could it work for a fretboard?
     
  20. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch Tele-Meister

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    okay don't bother about the Rhodesian Teak (which I'm now told it's not)

    It has way too open grain and voids showing everywhere - not good for a smooth slippery fretboard

    Nice wood though IMG_20190206_131802.jpeg
    IMG_20190206_131623.jpeg

    With the Kiaat, I can make fingernail marks quite easily, so probably too soft for a neck, but maybe okay for body wood?
     
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