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Novice First Build: The Jawbone

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by Slowtwitch, Jan 1, 2019.

  1. El Tele Lobo

    El Tele Lobo Friend of Leo's

    Oct 21, 2014
    Florida
    Wow. I like that logo. That's the one thing I never tackled with my first build. I drafted one up, but never printed and applied it. Mine is based on Luke 15:11-32. I did put this on it though:

    20170716_184028.jpg

    I hope your worship with the Jawbone "slays" the congregation and brings glory to the Lord!
     
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  2. GPlo

    GPlo TDPRI Member

    Age:
    32
    59
    Jul 26, 2018
    Netherlands
    Easy!


    Something like this. You can make it as elaborate or simple as you like.
     
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  3. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch TDPRI Member

    85
    Dec 30, 2018
    South Africa
    Thx, that's what I thought of making. A router is such a useful tool if you can figure out how to use it to its full potential!!

    I've managed to get access to a workshop tomorrow, so looking forward to plane the raw wood
     
  4. Peregrino69

    Peregrino69 Tele-Afflicted Silver Supporter

    Age:
    49
    Dec 12, 2016
    Amsterdam
    Alright man, looks like it's shaping up real well :)
     
  5. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch TDPRI Member

    85
    Dec 30, 2018
    South Africa
    Time to clear coat. I did 3 layers yesterday. sanded to 800 lightly to scuff up and did additional 3 layers of matt by paint brush today.

    Now I'll leave the neck for a week to dry properly before sanding.

    I'm really happy with the colour after a royal stuff up with the first stain I used which came out way to red/ pink. It looked like spray-on self tan lotion gone bad. So I sanded about 80% off again and used this more yellow/ black stain to achieve this vintage/tobacco colour
    IMG_20190111_124503.jpeg
     
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  6. Jupiter

    Jupiter Telefied Silver Supporter

    Jun 22, 2010
    Osaka, Japan
    Also scary as hell! I appreciate mine, and use it a lot when I make a guitar, but I’m always relieved when I can finally put it away until the next build...
     
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  7. Macrogats

    Macrogats Tele-Afflicted

    Age:
    51
    May 15, 2017
    Auckland, New Zealand
    Good to see someone come in with an explanation. This is what I've been using today. I made this up a few months ago out of a kitchen bench top off cut and machined strips of wood for rails. I was flattening one side of a slab I'd made for one of my next builds. The third pic shows how the high edge is flattening out. Just finish it all up with my big sanding beam and orbital. IMG_0813.JPG

    IMG_0815.JPG

    IMG_0816.JPG


    I couldn't agree more. Unfortunately I have several builds in the pipeline, so lots and LOTS of routing jobs to tend to!
     
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  8. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch TDPRI Member

    85
    Dec 30, 2018
    South Africa
    So with access to a workshop, I grabbed the opportunity!
    6ft by 55mm deep, cut in 4 pieces to make 2 bodies
    IMG_20190112_094551.jpeg

    plane the pieces to 49mm, you can see how bowed a "straight" piece of wood really was

    IMG_20190112_095325 (1).jpeg
    IMG_20190112_095827.jpeg
    joint the one edge square. these awesome industrial machines makes things so quick and easy!
    IMG_20190112_102004.jpeg

    then you get this nice fit with this beautiful wood grain
    IMG_20190112_101951.jpeg

    And then we glued them
    IMG_20190112_111831.jpeg

    I've decided on a thicker body, bit more like a LP thickness, so I'll cut-out the body shape, and then plane it down to 47mm. With the Poly finish I'll end up somewhere between a 47-48mm thick body.
    And Cliff is also keen for a build, so now my build has expanded to TWO builds!!
    He is also very keen to make a neck, something I originally didn't want to tackle, but in the last week or 2 been thinking it would be great to build a complete guitar.

    SO, in all likelihood, my guitar build will consist now of two complete guitars, 2 bodies and 2 necks and 2 custom pickguards
     

    Attached Files:

  9. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch TDPRI Member

    85
    Dec 30, 2018
    South Africa
    While I'm waiting to get going on the body, I started playing with the idea of a neck build.

    So I made a Strat neck template using the enclosed drawings

    Trying to use reclaimed MDF pieces to make a neck templates is not recommended! 2 pieces glued ends up with a slight bow at the joint, minimal, but I'll rather transfer to a new master template

    Headstock off a Fender strat to get a basic shape and position punch accurately the pegheads, then personalise shape
    IMG_20190119_181922.jpeg

    IMG_20190119_181904.jpeg

    routered the streight sections using double-sided tape fence with trim bearing bit and the rest just free hand router on the router table and sanded smooth all edges

    I'll drill small location holes for the pegheads once I've got access to a drillpress
     

    Attached Files:

  10. R. Stratenstein

    R. Stratenstein Doctor of Teleocity Silver Supporter

    Aug 3, 2010
    Loganville, Ga.
    Body looked like beautiful wood. Do you have access to a scale to weigh it once you get the body shape cut out? You might want to make your pickguard bigger, so you can drill out some wood to lighten it, and have the pickguard cover the lightening cavities.

    That looks to be a very-nicely equipped shop! Nice of someone to give you access.
     
  11. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch TDPRI Member

    85
    Dec 30, 2018
    South Africa
    It's time to tackle the body!
    We've had trouble to plane the wood flat. Concave one side, convex other side. After asking the Swiss woodworker's advise, he said there's a bow in the wood itself and we'll have to take off quite a bit more wood to level it flat.....

    Long story short, I decided I'll rather tackle the task by hand, trying to flatten both sides. We're sitting on 49mm, and I'd like to finish at 47mm, so within 2mm I had to get both sides flat.

    between sanding and a quick makeshift router jig, and a few hours later, I'm quite pleased. Not perfect yet, but good enough to do the cutout. I'll sand it further once the final cut-out is done.
    IMG_20190125_120401.jpeg
    IMG_20190125_124026.jpeg
    Then I used a jig saw to rough cut...it was ugly and stressful, the blade didn't want to cut smoothly, but rather jumped, hacking away at the wood, so unfortunately I had to stay well clear of the cut line.
    So with ample wood to remove with the router, it was also stressful, and I had a number of blowout/ bit biting cases. Fortunately, all of them still outside the cut line.

    NOTE TO SELF: especially when cutting across the grain, take off slivers at a time to prevent the bit to grab the wood and jerk it.

    After 3 passes (first with template, others without), and this is where I'm at (note how much wood I needed to router off (not recommended)
    IMG_20190125_160932.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2019
    dickjonesify likes this.
  12. Chocklit_Thunda

    Chocklit_Thunda TDPRI Member

    97
    Jan 28, 2013
    Benoni, South Africa
    Hey! Fellow South African here! I don't happen to know you from any of the facebook groups do I?
    If you're in JHB you're more than welcome to give me a shout if you need any assistance!
     
    Slowtwitch likes this.
  13. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch TDPRI Member

    85
    Dec 30, 2018
    South Africa
    Hi there, maybe SA Music store on FB? I live in JBay ;)
     
  14. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch TDPRI Member

    85
    Dec 30, 2018
    South Africa
    more routing and more sanding.
    I had to change router bits for this last pass to reach, and somehow the cut isn't quite flush with the previous, so it'll require some sanding of the edge to get a flat edge

    Both top and bottom is pretty flat now and we're down to 47mm
    IMG_20190127_142116 (1).jpeg
     
  15. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch TDPRI Member

    85
    Dec 30, 2018
    South Africa
    Switching from 60 grit to flatten to 320 grit, I can't believe how this piece of wood is busy turning to a piece of polished marble!
    I'll leave it at 320 grit for when I start applying the finish
    IMG_20190128_180556.jpeg
     
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  16. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch TDPRI Member

    85
    Dec 30, 2018
    South Africa
    It is time to tackle the neck pocket!

    I followed the advise from this thread: http://www.tdpri.com/threads/cutting-a-neck-pocket-accurately.909187/

    So draw a centre line and neck pocket heel edge, place the neck with square edges and centre the whole deal across the full length of the body to be as accurate as possible
    IMG_20190129_104643.jpeg
    IMG_20190129_111123.jpeg
    double-sided tape fences and neck heel profile piece (I'm doing a Strat heel, not Tele)
    IMG_20190129_120229.jpeg
     
  17. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch TDPRI Member

    85
    Dec 30, 2018
    South Africa
    IMG_20190129_120235.jpeg
    IMG_20190129_122535.jpeg
    progressive deeper cuts
    IMG_20190129_123950.jpeg
    IMG_20190129_125406.jpeg
    Clean cut to 5/8". I'm happy with the end result. Not quite as tight fitting as I expected, but as I understand there should be some allowance for paint leakage into the cavity and finish on the neck
    IMG_20190129_130029.jpeg
     
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  18. RickyRicardo

    RickyRicardo Friend of Leo's

    Mar 27, 2012
    Calgary, Alberta
    I always put a strip of tape or 2 on the template to make it that much smaller. You can always sand the neck to fit.

    Nice job!
     
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  19. Slowtwitch

    Slowtwitch TDPRI Member

    85
    Dec 30, 2018
    South Africa
    On to the pup and control cavities
    IMG_20190129_140608.jpeg
    Oeps!! Damaged master template. And yes I know you shouldn't use the master
    IMG_20190130_071910.jpeg

    Pup cavities I took down to 27.5mm (1.083") depth (not 25mm standard) so the router bearing could ride along the edge when I removed the MDF template for the final cut.

    Control cavity is to spec 35mm depth
    IMG_20190130_110844.jpeg

    Drilling the wire hole using progressively larger bits was nerve wrecking and I did end deeper than what I planned. Fortunately not through the back and still sort of in the control cavity!!
    IMG_20190130_114300.jpeg
    IMG_20190130_114312.jpeg

    But looking at it now, I'm thinking it might be a squeeze to get the wires past the pup bracket

    Would have been better to drill from the pup corner, not the centre line where the bracket sits

    Any thoughts, could this still work, or must I make another plan?
     
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2019
  20. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Doctor of Teleocity Silver Supporter

    Mar 30, 2003
    Ontario County
    I take a forstner bit and make a counterbore into the wire hole at the intersection of the wall and hole.


    counterbore.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2019
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