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Not again!! Elpee Standard to replace the one that got away.

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by Engraver-60, Dec 26, 2018.

  1. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Doctor of Teleocity Silver Supporter

    Mar 30, 2003
    Ontario County
    If you are making a vintage style Gibson rod with an acorn nut, you should check now to see if you can get your truss rod wrench in that cavity with some room to turn it. You may need to tweak it and it's easier to to that now. I think I go 5/8 at the wide part. I have a nut driver and a wrench from stew mac which is skinnier.



    This is kind of cool. I haven't seen this before:

    https://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Too...uss_Rods/StewMac_Truss_Rod_Access_Cutter.html
     
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2019
  2. Engraver-60

    Engraver-60 Friend of Leo's

    Age:
    66
    Jan 6, 2008
    Brentwood, TN
    I like the counterbore/spotfacing tool Herb showed, and it's only $20.

    https://www.yardstore.com/counterbore-spotfacer-3-4-x-3-16-surplus-new

    I woke up this morning running the centering and horizontal drilling scheme through my brain (strange how that happens), but I can use a 3/16" brad point to find the center, then change to the 5/8" forstner bit, and bore to depth on the Shopsmith.
     
  3. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Doctor of Teleocity Silver Supporter

    Mar 30, 2003
    Ontario County

    Here's a few low budget operation ideas for you. I bought a K&S brass tube at the train shop and I sharpened the end. Xacto makes a scoop shaped gouge for their knives, they are nice but brittle. So between those and a 1/4" chisel, I've done quite a few nut recesses. Harbor freight makes a washer assortment. They aren't thick with barbs but get the job done.


    This may give you a few ideas....


    http://www.tdpri.com/threads/lets-make-a-single-one-way-truss-rod.639762/#post-6971895
     
  4. Engraver-60

    Engraver-60 Friend of Leo's

    Age:
    66
    Jan 6, 2008
    Brentwood, TN
    Thanks for the links, Marty. I am going to get a bunch of drink straws to cover the rod and help fill the gap (1/4" diameter bullnose cutter -> 3/16" diameter rod). I'll fabricate all of the washer and anchor myself, maybe even the brass nut. I'll see what I have laying around the shop.
     
  5. Engraver-60

    Engraver-60 Friend of Leo's

    Age:
    66
    Jan 6, 2008
    Brentwood, TN
    I came up with a 15 step TO-DO list for this weekend. That should get me through Saturday morning, right?
     
  6. RickyRicardo

    RickyRicardo Friend of Leo's

    Mar 27, 2012
    Calgary, Alberta
  7. Engraver-60

    Engraver-60 Friend of Leo's

    Age:
    66
    Jan 6, 2008
    Brentwood, TN
    OK, I'll start on it tonight...........
     
  8. John Nicholas

    John Nicholas Friend of Leo's

    Jun 26, 2014
    Poughkeepsie, NY
    Love it... guilt works!! :lol::lol:
     
  9. Freeman Keller

    Freeman Keller Tele-Holic

    Age:
    73
    621
    Aug 22, 2018
    Washington
    Its friday night, Mrs K is cooking a wonderful dinner, I've got a nice bottle of wine chilled. The last thing on my mind is working on a guitar. Second last thing is posting to some forum. See y'all tomorrow when I've got about 15 things to do to the OM.
     
  10. Engraver-60

    Engraver-60 Friend of Leo's

    Age:
    66
    Jan 6, 2008
    Brentwood, TN
    Home Alone, dog sitting, so I went to the shop and started to work on the TO-DO list. I made a maple filler strip, then started to cut a piece of the flame pale cutoff to make a headstock veneer. My poor little Shopsmith bandsaw wanders so much on tall cuts, I ruined the piece and spent about an hour trying to salvage something for a flame maple veneer. Learning how to use the Safe-T-Planer, So I also used it to level the neck heel parallel to the fretboard mating surface. That was scary; I thought if I mess this up I am back to square one on the neck. Luckily, I only had to make a couple very shallow passes on the butt end. The rest I can do with a sanding block. I rummaged through the solid maple scraps from the house flooring project, but no flames long enough. I even tried to create a bookmatch with the 2 ruined halves. NO GO.

    I also looked around for the steel I had for the anchor. I keep everything, problem is I can never find it, after moving 3 times since I started this guitar building thing. Because I am a jeweler, hand engraver, and would be woodworker, I have been saving steel of all sorts of shapes and sizes for tool making. I have a Ziploc bag somewhere with these piece in it somewhere. Time to do more rummaging. I'd hate to go to HD and buy even a 12" long 1/2" diameter rod and then cut it and find my steel stash bag. Too much stuff.

    This AM - An Aside - Shadow the Wonder Dog knows when it's Saturday or Sunday - I sleep past 4:30 am. That means Frisbee Day to her. She hates to get wet, but if there's a Frisbee involved, she does not care. Today heavy rains, and 25 throws, catches and retrievals, then a bath. She's my best dog ever.

    wet_shadow[1].jpg
     
    R. Stratenstein and Barncaster like this.
  11. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Doctor of Teleocity Silver Supporter

    Mar 30, 2003
    Ontario County
    Use a bolt shank for the anchor?
     
  12. Engraver-60

    Engraver-60 Friend of Leo's

    Age:
    66
    Jan 6, 2008
    Brentwood, TN
    Marty: I may have to, if I can't find the steel stash bag.
     
  13. Engraver-60

    Engraver-60 Friend of Leo's

    Age:
    66
    Jan 6, 2008
    Brentwood, TN
    Well, it needed to be done. I spent a good hour or more sorting through boxes in my engraving room, and could not find my steel stash bag. But, I did throw away a bunch of unnecessary junk, and made some space in there.

    Last night while thinking about the flame maple headstock veneer, it dawned on me that I've had a slab of cocobolo for about 45 years. I bought it when I started doing jewelry making for use as scale on flatware. The piece I bought from my teacher's store broke in about half many years ago. I decided that would be a very nice wood to compliment the waterfall bubinga fretboard. I checked the cupping in this piece and mounted it cup up, and planed it down flat, then flipped and brought down to a manageable 3/32" thickness.
    coco-veneerblank[1].jpg
    coco-veneer[1].jpg
    headstock-veneer_bubinga[1].jpg
    I guess I need to find a bolt that has the right diameter shank to make an anchor for the truss rod. It's Saturday, and I feel like going to Woodcraft to just window shop. And we're out of ice cream. Besides, HD is across the street from Woodcraft. Might pick up a rod of 1/2" diameter steel.
     
    Barncaster likes this.
  14. Engraver-60

    Engraver-60 Friend of Leo's

    Age:
    66
    Jan 6, 2008
    Brentwood, TN
    I kept emptying boxes of stray stuff, and found the 12" long x 3/8" diameter rod I had purchased in 2009 for anchor stock. I marked it and drilled it and tapped it to 10-32 UNF through, then cut it to length. And threaded the end of the 3/16" diameter truss rod, and screwed it onto the anchor, and peened the end flush. Then I measured against the full size print that I have taped to the garage door, and marked and cut the truss rod leaving it a bit long, and threaded the end of that. I am going to wait to cut it length, once I have the counterbore on the headstock and a washer and nut. This was my first truss rod, so I am stoked. Making progress. 5 out of 15 items on the list checked off. Yippee!!
    todolist[1].jpg
    anchor[1].jpg

    So I had to get groceries, and GC is 2 doors down. I went in and asked the Tech, Ron, if he had any used Gibson Truss Rod nuts, and he gave me the one he had. He did not have any of the D washers, but I can make that. It fits nicely with no slop in the threads.
    tr-nut[1].jpg
    tr-on-neck[1].jpg
     
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2019
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  15. Engraver-60

    Engraver-60 Friend of Leo's

    Age:
    66
    Jan 6, 2008
    Brentwood, TN
    WHEW - I used the Shoppie to horizontal drill, and found the center of the trough with a 3/16" diameter Forstner bit,
    finding_center[1].jpg
    and then drilled the Counterbore for the truss rod at 5/8" diameter to depth (18-3/16" from back of anchor hole to spot face.
    boring_5_8[1].jpg
    Then I made a d-washer. I save everything, so after trying to make a d-washer from a JB knockout (failed), I search my "WASHERS" cigar box and found some body shim washers (from the early '90's) and lo & behold I made the d-washer from one of those. If I was rich I'd still have my first nickel. I spent a good amount of time sawing and grinding the anchor so it'd fit properly, and the d-washer. Then I even created the barbs to prevent it from spinning once it's installed.
    body_washer[1].jpg
    barbing_washer[1].jpg
    truss-rod_and_washer[1].jpg

    Now that I know I can make these parts and assemblies, I will save my coins and place an order to S-M or some other luthier supply and buy them. This is work, and adds so much to the amount of time to get this project to the finish line.

    But on the other hand, this one is going to be unique being almost entirely made by me.
    Probably done for today. Wednesday will be the next day to work on it after work. I hope y'all appreciate my thread. I am having fun trying to record as I go along.
    C&C is welcome.
     
    peeweepete and guitarbuilder like this.
  16. Engraver-60

    Engraver-60 Friend of Leo's

    Age:
    66
    Jan 6, 2008
    Brentwood, TN
    A couple of things for today:
    1) I measured the Bartlett pdf for the length of the truss rod from face of anchor to the end at 18.25", so I will have to cut the excess of the nut end.
    2) I've been searching for a cheap source of pearloid inlay material, and this one came up:
    http://www.suntekstore.com/goods-78...aterial_purfling_sheet_head_veneer_shell.html
    I ordered 2 sets - should be here about when I am ready to tackle that. I'll post pictures, if and when it arrives. Another source was drum wrap material, but that's way too much $$ and too much material to ever use up.
    Now another item has entered onto my list - Make a base for the Dremel to cut the pockets for the inlays. If anybody has made a simple base, please post a picture or a link. Thanks and have a Happy Monday.
     
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2019
  17. Engraver-60

    Engraver-60 Friend of Leo's

    Age:
    66
    Jan 6, 2008
    Brentwood, TN
    OK - I've started to think about actually cutting into the bubinga fretboard blank, and I pulled out my big box with the Stew-Mac miter box and saw and fret scale. OOPS - it's for Fender scales, 25.50" and 25.00", so I have to either buy or make one for the Gibson scale. Luckily (have I stated I hoard, and never throw anything out?), I had a steel door kickplate from a front door two houses ago. It's heavy and plenty long enough, so I brought it to work to see if someone in the Model Shop can shear it to 2.9375" wide so I can make the template. Yesterday AM, early, I caught one of the machinists as he came in and he sheared it; got it home and it's 2-5/16" wide, not 2-15/16" wide, so I'll try again today. I have plenty of full size printouts of the fretboard that I can glue to the steel blank. And I have the calculations from Stew-Mac for the fret locations from the nut, just to verify. Hopefully tonight I can make the new and improved fret slot guide.
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2019
  18. Engraver-60

    Engraver-60 Friend of Leo's

    Age:
    66
    Jan 6, 2008
    Brentwood, TN
    Well, I got the machinist to hear the blank again, but this time because it is getting so narro, it ended up crooked. 3" on one end and 3.25" on the other. I just finished filing it down to fit the miter box. I filed by hand with my assortment of Grobet files and snuck up on it, one inch length at a time. WHEW - that was a work out. Maybe tomorrow evening after work I can glue the fretboard printout and cut some index slots. Waking up at 4 am and working for a living, then trying to come home and do cool stuff is difficult.
     
  19. Engraver-60

    Engraver-60 Friend of Leo's

    Age:
    66
    Jan 6, 2008
    Brentwood, TN
    Here's what the new fret scale blank looks like after an hour of filing to get it to fit the miter box:
    new fretscale blank.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2019
    Barncaster likes this.
  20. Engraver-60

    Engraver-60 Friend of Leo's

    Age:
    66
    Jan 6, 2008
    Brentwood, TN
    I cut the notches in the edge of the fret scale guide using the Traditional fretboard as a glued on template. I cut the notches using my jewelry Foredom and a stack of 2 separating disks, which matched the width of the slots in the Stew-Mac Fender scale guide. Then for comparison I pulled out a fretboard that Marty (a.k.a., Guitarbuilder) had sent me many years ago. It matches nearly perfectly. I checked the status of my cheap inlay material from China, and it shipped, but won't be here till the middle of next month. I guess it's taking the slow boat from China.

    Meantime, I am going to make a router base for a Dremel I have to cut the inlay pockets. There's really not much to them; a few hex nuts, springs, and all thread rods.

    One of my main worries is this: I cut the headstock overlay to the plans, and the neck side profile matches the drawing, but when I place them together according to the plans the overlay is long by about a 1/2". Herb, Freeman, or other LP builders - have you had this problem?

    I'll post some pictures maybe tomorrow evening - it's past my bedtime.
     
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