Asher Guitars WD Music Products Amplified Parts Mod Kits DIY Nordstarnd Pickups Warmoth.com Reiland Pickups
Asher Guitars WD Music Products Amplified Parts Mod Kits DIY Nordstarnd Pickups Warmoth.com Reilander Pickups
Asher Guitars WD Music Products Amplified Parts Mod Kits DIY Nordstarnd Pickups Warmoth.com Reilander Pickups
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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by GrahamV, Nov 25, 2012.

  1. GrahamV

    GrahamV TDPRI Member

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    I have a two big lumps of Ash
    A nearly finished template (plans thanks to tdowns)
    And a neck of uncertain origin (looks good though)

    Hooray, I can finally start building

    [​IMG]
    Guitar bits by Graham Vincent, on Flickr

    Power tools are in short supply, inventory consists of a drill, a jigsaw, a router and a, no thats the lot.
    I do have some hand crafted tools though, this one's destined to be an heirloom :D But it did help me with sanding the template.

    [​IMG]
    Sanding Jig by Graham Vincent, on Flickr

    And on to the first question :oops:
    The eagle eyed among you might have spotted the knot in the first picture, this could be located in the bridge pickup cavity, or as I still need to prepare the edges for glueing, should I just get rid of it.
    This was originally one board, cut to remove a major check running up the middle, will it be OK to join as below?

    Tell me if I'm overthinking this and should just get on with the bl**dy thing.

    [​IMG]
    Grain by Graham Vincent, on Flickr
     
  2. Rod Parsons

    Rod Parsons Friend of Leo's

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  3. mobaar

    mobaar Tele-Meister

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    Hi, welcome to TDPRI. I would be hesitant to include a knot in a joint like that. Knots tend to swell differently than the rest of the wood, and you wouldn't want that causing issues at the seam. If the whole thing is going to be hogged out for the pickup rout, you may be ok, but I personally would find a way to avoid it. Knots on the face are a different story...some of the best looking guitars I have seen (*cough*ronkirn*cough*) have visible knots.

    You'll be fine with those tools. I did my first build with just those tools minus the router and got a decent product. Use good chisels!

    ~Mo
     
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  5. R. Stratenstein

    R. Stratenstein Doctor of Teleocity

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    If you have the luxury of having enough wood to be able to cut the knot out, I'd advise you, on your first build, to get rid of it. Knots in ash don't seem to be as "normal" as knots in pine Teles. As far as grain orientation, no problem joining as shown in the photo. You are right that it needs a bit of work on the glue joint edges.
    Welcome to the forum.
     
  6. GrahamV

    GrahamV TDPRI Member

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    Thanks for the advice.
    Router jointing jig next on the list then.
     
  7. Olav

    Olav Tele-Afflicted

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    That's very nice, simple sanding tool you made. Welcome!
     
  8. GrahamV

    GrahamV TDPRI Member

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    Well, it's been 3 months but I haven't been completely idle.

    First I knocked together a router sled to remove that awkward knot, luckily the base plate was just big enough.
    [​IMG]
    Router Sled by Graham Vincent, on Flickr

    No pictures of the glueing up procedure but I'm sure you've all seen it done better.
    After a few hours of drilling, hand sawing, sanding and swearing it was finally ready for routing.
    On reflection I should have gone a little closer to the line but only had a very little tear out.
    [​IMG]
    Body Blank by Graham Vincent, on Flickr

    I only had inch profiling bits so had to be a little creative with template thickness but i've finally got to where I am today.
    [​IMG]
    Routed by Graham Vincent, on Flickr

    Tonight's job was to start the arm and belly relief, so I had a good evening with a rasp and a couple of hours of Grateful Dead...should have some more photos at the weekend.
     
  9. thecableguy

    thecableguy Friend of Leo's

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    Looking good Graham! Looks like your router jointing setup did the trick.
     
  10. Tezuka27

    Tezuka27 Tele-Meister

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    Looks very nice! You've done a good job so far.

    john
     
  11. Glen Smith

    Glen Smith RIP

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    That looks very good!
     
  12. GrahamV

    GrahamV TDPRI Member

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    Thanks everyone, making slow progress but I'm just about ready for finishing.

    Eased off the edges for a belly and arm relief, please ignore the two small repairs on the upper bout. :(

    [​IMG]
    Arm & Belly relief by Graham Vincent, on Flickr

    I'm really happy/relieved with how the string through holes turned out. I've only got one of those portable drill press toys, so had to be a bit creative. I used a reference line to mark the positions front and back, then drilled halfway through each side and let out a little cheer when I could see daylight in each hole. Nobody else in the family seemed very impressed though.

    [​IMG]
    String thru holes by Graham Vincent, on Flickr

    And she's finally ready for finishing.

    [​IMG]
    Ready for finish by Graham Vincent, on Flickr
     
  13. TRexF16

    TRexF16 Tele-Afflicted

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    That's a great looking hunk or wood, Mister (so to speak). Nearly quarter sawn. Will look great with a clear finish!

    Rex
     
  14. GrahamV

    GrahamV TDPRI Member

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    Cheers Rex
    Plan is at the moment for a stained black with Tru Oil finish.
    That's if I can find a way of concealing the repairs.
     
  15. GrahamV

    GrahamV TDPRI Member

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    Sorry for the lack of pictures, they're difficult to take while you're scratching your head. :)

    I've stained and tru oiled the body, shielded the routs and am currently burning my fingers with a soldering iron.

    Got a quick question if that's alright.....
    Bridge pickup has a metal base, rout shielded with copper tape contacting the bridge plate. Do I need to have another ground wire to connect the shielding to the control cavity?

    Any help would much appreciated.
     
  16. src9000

    src9000 Poster Extraordinaire

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    Nice work. I'd say no, as long as the shielding is grounded
     
  17. fretman_2

    fretman_2 Friend of Leo's

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    Well...if the contact is mechanical rather than a solder joint...I think I'd rather just solder a connection to ground (or earth) from the shielding. All kind of things can happen to a mechanical joint.
     
  18. GrahamV

    GrahamV TDPRI Member

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    Thanks......so if I were to go with the belt and braces approach, I run wires from neck and bridge shielding and solder to the top of a free pot? (sorry if I appear slow, I always think I'm missing something with electrickery)
     
  19. R. Stratenstein

    R. Stratenstein Doctor of Teleocity

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    Yes. That would give you the most assured grounding/shielding, typically the volume pot, where all the grounds (negative wires) are tied together.
     
  20. GrahamV

    GrahamV TDPRI Member

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    Blimey, it's been nearly a year since my last post.

    First , I tried not completely successfully to slice my thumb off and then spent a couple of months trying to get the 4 way switch to work but could only get the bridge working before giving up in disgust.

    After some encouragement (nagging) from my son I gave it another go tonight.......unsoldered all connections, checked pickups straight through to the jack, checked pots and resoldered the switch....and suddenly it's working!

    Just needs a little play with the action and it's done. Will post some pictures tomorrow.

    Do I get a prize for the longest build?
     
  21. philspeed1

    philspeed1 Tele-Meister

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    Good to see your nearly finished I thought I took a long time on builds. Some times it pays to sit back when something is not working but thet amount of time might be pushing it. Photos of finished project will be good.
     
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