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Asher Guitars WD Music Products Amplified Parts Mod Kits DIY Nordstarnd Pickups Warmoth.com

Nocaster - To Refin or Not to Refin

Discussion in 'Vintage Tele Discussion Forum (pre-1974)' started by bienteveo, Apr 28, 2014.

  1. GuitarJonz

    GuitarJonz Poster Extraordinaire

    Mar 16, 2003
    MA
    Before I realized it was a real '51, I was gonna say to slap on a white guard and some Bardens, and you'd have a Coalburner, but no, find the best refin guy you can, or leave it alone.
     

    Attached Files:


  2. Antoon

    Antoon Tele-Holic

    633
    Feb 10, 2010
    Low Lands
    Are you afraid a nitro refin won't bond/be compatible with the current finish? Some kind of transparent primer/grain filler might help then. Or is it that you think that it will be hard to get the color right if you would spray over the current finish? With the right solvent (methylene chloride (toxic!) or aceton?) you might be able to strip most of the current 'color' off. Because of the solvent some of wax will nonetheless be absorbed by the body though and you will never be able to get rid of it completely I think. Have you tried a gel-based paint stripper on a small spot? Perhaps you are lucky and the whole layer will peel away.
     

  3. HOBBSTER01

    HOBBSTER01 Friend of Leo's

    Age:
    55
    Nov 23, 2007
    Ringgold, Ga.
    Play the thing. Mojo will be lost.
     

  4. bienteveo

    bienteveo TDPRI Member

    45
    Dec 4, 2012
    Buenos Aires
    Hi Antoon. This Minwax finish is in the pores of the wood. It's nasty. In order to return the guitar to natural wood, sanding would have to happen. Since the guitar has already lost mass to previous refinish jobs (right now we're down to 41-42mm), I'd like to avoid that. I know nothing about refinishing, so I can't say whether the nitro refin would be possible "over" the Minwax. Even if it were, I'd worry that the color would not be right.

    FYI, I had approached one professional about this. He's not able to take on the job due to workload, but he did give some kind advice. Acetone could be used first, though the wood would most likely remain darker than natural, negatively effecting the final result. He then suggested that some kind of bleach could be used to lighten it up before doing the nitro finish.

    Cheers,

    Richard
     

  5. bienteveo

    bienteveo TDPRI Member

    45
    Dec 4, 2012
    Buenos Aires
    Much has been said about the D stamp. I'm going to go out on a limb here and suggest that it's a message from the past to anyone who in later years would be wondering if they should refinish the guitar. The D stands for "DON'T." But what happened was, in the late 60s/early 70s everyone was all about "Doin' it", Commander Cody style. So the message ----D---- was misinterpreted as "DO it." And they did. Hence "the great 1970s natural wood debacle." Here we are to this day, picking up the pieces.

    la foto 3 copy.jpg .
     

  6. Alex W

    Alex W Friend of Leo's

    Last edited: Apr 30, 2014

  7. bienteveo

    bienteveo TDPRI Member

    45
    Dec 4, 2012
    Buenos Aires
    Ahhh, the Coalburner. That patina is straight out of Cremona.
     

  8. bienteveo

    bienteveo TDPRI Member

    45
    Dec 4, 2012
    Buenos Aires
     

  9. Alex W

    Alex W Friend of Leo's

    I don't know that Fender Custom Shop would undertake its restoration or not, but it's worth looking into. Worst they can do is say no. Mike Eldred of the Custom Shop posts over at The Gear Page but I think he's got his account set up so you can't PM him. So I'm not sure how you'd contact him.
     

  10. lewis

    lewis Friend of Leo's

    Mar 17, 2003
    Colorado
    De una belleza impresionan.
     

  11. bienteveo

    bienteveo TDPRI Member

    45
    Dec 4, 2012
    Buenos Aires
    You must be referring to the cherry red ES-335! Si, es impresionante su belleza.
     

  12. Buzzardeater

    Buzzardeater Tele-Holic

    880
    Mar 26, 2012
    Vancouver
    Here's another option;

    vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/van/msg/4441547299.html
     

  13. bienteveo

    bienteveo TDPRI Member

    45
    Dec 4, 2012
    Buenos Aires
    Thanks Buzzardeater. But all the various pieces that make up my guitar are going to stay together as long as I have anything to say about it.

    I'm beginning to think I should have been more specific in the title of this thread, making clear that the guitar in question is not a reissue or a partscaster, or anything of the sort. Neck and body cavity dates are both August 1951.
     

  14. Joefish

    Joefish Tele-Afflicted

    Dec 31, 2008
    PA
    Hi Richard, awesome guitar!

    Could I trouble you for a photo of the head stock ... and maybe one of the entire guitar (... so I have a better idea of what it really looks like for my dreams tonight).

    Joe
     

  15. bienteveo

    bienteveo TDPRI Member

    45
    Dec 4, 2012
    Buenos Aires
    Sure thing Joe.

    First, the full frontal shot:
    Nocaster Full Front.jpg

    Next, a closer view of the body. Note the new saddles. I have the originals.

    FrontClose.jpg

    Finally, the headstock. The machines were not working well, so I switched them out. Original screws are in place though. Also, as you can see the headstock suffered the same treatment as the rest of the guitar. I'd like to think the decal is original. Opinions on that would be welcome. Come to think of it, opinions on anything at all would be welcome.
     

    Attached Files:


  16. slimdave

    slimdave TDPRI Member

    78
    Mar 8, 2013
    Barcelona
    I'd definitely speak to Mr Baños. He will be able to give you more detail than most.
     

  17. Antoon

    Antoon Tele-Holic

    633
    Feb 10, 2010
    Low Lands
    Now that I see the whole guitar, personally I would indeed refinish it. There seems so be a wear spot between the bridge and the control plate. The 'shoe polish' looks to be mostly worn off at that spot. If you can get the whole body like that with acetone I think the chances of a nice refin are quite good. The body wood does not show too much wood grain were the shoe polish has sunk in, which is good I think. And just a bit of accentuation of the grain by the shoe polish under the new finish might actually be quite nice.

    Is the logo original? The shoe polish seems to be under the logo (?). If the logo is a replacement I would refinish the headstock as well. Otherwise you might check first if the acetone attacks the logo.
     

  18. Troubleandahalf

    Troubleandahalf Tele-Holic

    781
    Jun 2, 2011
    Austin, TX

    In that case I retract my surf green suggestion. Such a shame about the headstock, but the rest of the neck is super dope.
     

  19. bienteveo

    bienteveo TDPRI Member

    45
    Dec 4, 2012
    Buenos Aires
    Yeah, the headstock doesn't make me happy either. But it could be worse…. According to the previous owner, the entire neck was once slathered in the same gunk.
     

  20. bienteveo

    bienteveo TDPRI Member

    45
    Dec 4, 2012
    Buenos Aires
    I don't know if the logo is original. Comparing it with examples in Nacho's book, it's certainly consistent with 1951 Nocaster specs. But I'm not an expert. Nor do I know what to make of the fact that it's over the finish. Would it have been possible to remove the original decal and then stick the decal back on?

    If it is original, can the logo be removed and reapplied after refinishing?
     

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