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Discussion in 'Squier Tele Forum' started by A.B.Negative, Aug 5, 2013.
This reads like you think using a shim is a bad thing. Which side of the pocket did you shim?
When you say other model do you mean MIM Cabronitas or the non bigsby squier cabs? Either way both have the Fidelitron pups.. Only negative I've seen regarding those has from the OCD crowd regarding the string spacing.
I don't think a shim is a bad thing at all! Many (possibly most) of my guitars with bolt-on necks have shims. Some people say shims adversely affect tone, I think the tone is better when I can play the guitar more easily.
I was just saying that it would have been impossible to set up the action to my liking with the limited scope for adjustment available from the bridge and saddles. If I could have set up the guitar without having to dismantle it first it would have been a little easier and quicker, that's all.
I put the shim at the end of the neck pocket closest to the pickup, as in the top example on this diagram I found on t'interwebs:
Not bad. The kitchen scales say it's roughly 8.25lb (3.75kg).
I'm trying to decide between one of these and an Indy Custom telemaster
Are There issues With bridge saddles? Someone says strings loose correct placement and octave intonation screws are unstable and unscew and hit The strings....
Wich Seymour Duncan could be used in the bridge position with an higher output? Not the hot rails that is too much and a stacked one so with no hum
Haha xtrajerry. I have the Fender Cabronita and the bridge / string spacing doesn't bother me in the least. Love the guitar. It is a different cat and for me it really comes into its own with some nasty distortion or blues. The neck is incredibly comfortable. Not quite like any of my other Tele necks.
I got one of these a month or so ago really cheap for £120. Love the sound of the pups combined and the neck pup alone but I too find the bridge pup is just a little too weedy and thin sounding. Doesn't actually sound bad, just not as full sounding as I'd expect. I can fatten the sound with a pedal or the amp but then switching to the other pup doesn't sound too good. So I generally use the two combined.
Build quality is very good, quite heavy but I find it a comfortable weight. Very good looking guitar - had lots of admiring comments.
The action is ok - I was getting quite a lot of fret buzz with the lighter strings it came with but that's gone with a set of 11s on. Tuning seems pretty stable, again better with the 11s and also improved since I lubricated the nut.
Couple of niggles are the intonation screws on bridge tend to ride up - they're a bit loose. Another is the proximity of the volume pot means I keep catching it with my right hand and turning to sound down! That's quite frustrating, especially when gigging - anyone know how to just disable the volume pot? I would always have it on full.
All in all, niggles aside a great guitar for the money and certainly what I paid for mine.
A little dab of clear nail varnish will hold the intonation screws in place.
It should be pretty straightforward to bypass the volume control -
Find the wires that go from the switch to the volume pot then unsolder the wires from the pot.
Make a note, draw a picture or take a photo of which way round the wires are attached to the jack socket. Unsolder the wires that go from the volume pot to the jack socket then solder the wires from the switch to the jack socket, making sure the "screen" wire is attached to the correct tag. As long as the wires are long enough to reach, Robert is your mum's brother! If not, you may need to improvise
I've just wrapped a rubber band around the shaft between the knob and the body.. the extra friction keeps the knob from turning freely but still allows me to keep the pot functional. Not much of an issue for me with Tele's but it is for Strats and my PRS.
As to the rotating of the volume control, here is a fix I developed for my Jazzmaster.
Go to a hardware store and by a grommet like this...
Split it as so...
Removed the knob and put one of the split pieces on the shaft...
Put the knob back on, pushed down hard against the grommet...
Presto! Problem gone.
I just bought a Squire VM Cabronita with Bigsby -- due to be delivered Monday. I expect I'll use the grommet trick there as well.
As to the various bridge issues... These are old hat to Jazzmaster and Jaguar players. Some use clear nail varnish as suggested. More commonly used is BLUE (repeat: BLUE) Loctite. It dries clear, keeps the screws from self-adjusting, gets rid of all buzzes, will still allow for future adjustment and dries clear so you cannot see it.
As important is 1) using heavier strings. At least .10s. Better yet .11s or even .12s. 2) making sure the saddles are pressed together so that they touch, and 3) making adjustments to string height using both the individual saddle screws and the master bridge height screws. You'll want to keep the individual heights so they match the neck radius (Some like the 6th string a bit higher. I do.) and make sure that the strings don't touch the bridge behind the saddles. A bit of space should remain between the vertical metal 'fold' and the string.
ALSO... the bridge should be centered before intonation is set. From time to time it may need to be pushed back to center - especially if flatwounds are used.
As above, all this is de rigueur for Jazzmasters and Jag players. No biggie once you learn the routine.
I've been wanting one of these for some time! Played a couple of examples in the shops. Don't let the logo on the headstock fool you - this is one seriously well made instrument! As someone who has been playing a VM Bass VI (strung baritone) for the past year the bridge issues are familiar to me. I swapped it out for a roller bridge and would probably do the same for this. The advice would be to pop over the offset guitars forum and look at some of the various remedies that owners for jaguars and jazzmasters have for bridge problems.
I'm very much looking forward to getting my hands on one of these for reals. I'm very much underpaid so forking out £260 isn't something I'm able to do very often.
That exactly matches my experience. I'd hoped for the same lead sound as I get from my American Standard Tele but one-on-one comparison supports my general impression that the Cab's bridge PUP is thin and weak.
One answer would be to get a Fender PUP, but instead I'm working with Ken at Rose Pickups* to have one custom built for this guitar. Ken himself owns a Squier Cab with Bigsby and thus is in a good position to get the balance right. Too, I've share videos with him so that he has an idea of just what I am looking for.
I'll get back with the results when the project is complete.
BTW, I've had none of the other problems with mine. My Squier Cabronita is an exquisitely built instrument. The neck, and especially the fretwork, is nothing short of superb. Maybe better even than that on my MIA Fender Tele. No buzzes whatever.
I bought one of these guitars but was never really happy with the sound. It was always much quieter than my other guitars and really muddy sounding. I had read online about lots of people complaining about the "weak pickups". When I opened up the control cavity I was shocked to find that the volume pot was A25K instead of A250K.
Having such a low value pot can have a devastating effect on volume and tone. I switched it with an A250K pot I had lying around and it is like night and day. twice the volume and much much brighter. Now the bridge actually sounds like a Tele.
Bear in mind that this was a brand new guitar still wrapped in a sealed box with squier tags on.
I can only think that this was a manufacturing error. If you are not happy with the volume or tone of yours I suggest that you open up the cavity and check the value of the pot before replacing pickups.
Great guitar still.