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Asher Guitars WD Music Products Amplified Parts Mod Kits DIY Nordstarnd Pickups Warmoth.com

Newbie Tele build

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by brownale99, Feb 24, 2017.

  1. brownale99

    brownale99 TDPRI Member

    44
    Feb 18, 2017
    Newcastle, UK
    Thanks again for all the comments and tips, appreciated as always. Quick update from today. Conquered my fear of planes, watched a few YouTube clips by Paul Sellars and got the plane set up spot on. What a difference. I've a much better understanding of grain now as well after discovering that I'd put the blanks together with the grain running opposite ways. There was a bit of a bow in the wood so not sure if I'd overclamped or not. Noticed a bit of tear out but nothing major. Only issue was a small knot but that can be filled.
    http://www.tdpri.com/attachments/img_2700-jpg.408543/?temp_hash=ff50f0ff7f18628b9c157981d726c842
    http://www.tdpri.com/attachments/img_2701-jpg.408544/?temp_hash=ff50f0ff7f18628b9c157981d726c842
    http://www.tdpri.com/attachments/img_2703-jpg.408545/?temp_hash=ff50f0ff7f18628b9c157981d726c842
    Once planed flat I transferred the outline to the blank and got the bandsaw out. I've now discovered my bandsaw is crap :( the blade kept jumping off the wheels as soon as any pressure was applied. I've watched a load of set up clips and as far as I can tell the top and bottom guides are set and blade tension seems fine. The cut when it worked was vertical so no issues there. When I opened the saw up I realised the bushes on the top wheel and the drive wheel are shot as well as the housing on the wheels :( I've looked on the net for replacements but it seems the saw is too old. Not sure if you guys have any ideas, I don't want to spend too much on an old saw. I guess the jigsaw will have to do for now until I can afford something better. That kinda put a stop to the days proceedings, hopefully my router bit will be here for next weekend so I might route the cavities before cutting out the blank. Well off to work now so no updates till I get back at the weekend. Cheers folks.
     

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  2. Daniel94

    Daniel94 Tele-Meister

    141
    Oct 31, 2016
    Odessa, MO
    Glad you figured out your plane, they are very enjoyable to use when they are set up right and sharp. I can't tell, did you correct the slight bow with your planing? I don't have any tips for the bandsaw, but the jigsaw will work I'm sure, just watch the underside of your cut for drifting, if your not careful it can drift on curves and cut too much without you knowing it. Another option that I have seen people do is to use a drill press and drill holes all the way around the outline to cut it out. Not the quickest thing I'm sure but it would work.
     
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  3. brownale99

    brownale99 TDPRI Member

    44
    Feb 18, 2017
    Newcastle, UK
    Yeah it's been a good lesson with the plane, especially the setup and sharpening. I managed to get the bow out and had 43.5mm pretty much spot on all the way round the edges with body level both sides. I had planned to take more pics but I was kinda mesmerised while planing it's an oddly calming and satisfying feeling lol. Also I understand grain now as well. I'll likely go the jigsaw route and take a slightly wider pass on my first attempt to be sure. The bandsaw still cuts mdf no problems but I'm guessing the sapele was too much for it with bearing issue. Not sure if it'll cut body's with the bearings fixed or if I'd be flogging a dead horse. I'll measure the wheels and bushes and maybe see if a newer 3 wheel saw has similar wheels that I could change out. I had a read through the walnut tele build and it was mentioned in there that routing the neck pocket was easier before roughing out so I might do that first when I get back home at the weekend. I just hope the neck pocket is ok on my template. After making my own for this build I think I'd be inclined to buy a Cnc'd one for accuracy in the future unless I was custom building.
     
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  4. MM73

    MM73 Tele-Afflicted

    Age:
    44
    Feb 24, 2015
    South Lyon, MI
    I'd recommend finding a thread that shows how to cut a neck pocket using the exact neck you plan to use.

    If the neck and body template you have came as a pair, then you might be alright (this was the case for my first build). I since made a new neck template with my own headstock shape. When I recently routed the body, I used the old pocket template. The fit with the new neck is looser than I prefer. Its not so bad that I'm going to glue material back in and reroute, but its something that I could have done better.

    If you use the jigsaw to cut your body profile, steer clear of the edges by 1/4" or more, as a long blade can flex a long way from what you see on top! If you have a bandsaw available, I'd recommend using it, cause sanding 1/4" to 3/8" of extra material to get to the profile takes a long, long time! Not a bad way to go though, as this is what I've been doing.
     
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  5. RickyRicardo

    RickyRicardo Friend of Leo's

    Mar 27, 2012
    Calgary, Alberta
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  6. MM73

    MM73 Tele-Afflicted

    Age:
    44
    Feb 24, 2015
    South Lyon, MI
    I like both of those threads.

    I'm a bit partial to trying the Jack Wells method for my next neck pocket, cause I can setup for the route right on the body.
    I just routed P90 pockets by basically using this method (boxing off the part with straight edges). The fit is pretty dang tight. Tight enough that I'm worried about finish build up causing trouble later!

    Truth be told, the only reason I didn't follow that method for my current build was because I didn't have two long, straight boards at 3/4" thickness to clamp up to the body. I test fit my neck on my old pocket template, and it seemed good enough. After routing though, there is just a touch more wiggle room than I'd like. I should have checked on scrap first.
    I'm finding that every neck is going to be a little bit different. So, I'm kinda leaning towards not making a pocket template at all, and just doing the layout work with the real neck clamped to the body and aligned with the bridge and string thru holes.

    This is all just for discussion. I know personal preference plays into a lot of choices for various methods.
     
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  7. brownale99

    brownale99 TDPRI Member

    44
    Feb 18, 2017
    Newcastle, UK
    Thanks MM73, I've made my own body template so I'll have to match it with my own neck template when it's done. I've got a bandsaw but the wheel bushes are shot, I'm going to see if there's anywhere local that makes them that will fit but to be honest I think it's for the bin :( which is a shame. If I have to go the jigsaw route I'll take that on board and cut that extra bit wide cheers.

    Thanks Ricky that's exactly what I was after. I have a USA tele so I'll use the putty method and then use that to make the neck template to suit. Top man cheers.
     

  8. brownale99

    brownale99 TDPRI Member

    44
    Feb 18, 2017
    Newcastle, UK
    Well back home again and tried to address the bandsaw issue but firstly my apologies for resurrecting the thread above. I may be a newbie guitar builder but I've been on enough forums to know that the first rule is read the rules and I fell at the first hurdle, my bad.

    It looks like the bandsaw is a no go :( it'll cut mdf but anything bigger and the blade just jumps off. I know from reading other threads and forums it should be enough to cut bodies. I've adjusted everything I can following all the guides I can but I think it's quite simply worn out, The closer I get to the correct tension the more the wear comes into play. The bushes all have play in the wheels, some more than others and a visit to two local bearing shops didn't turn up anything that would fit. The cost to get custom bushes for a 25 year old bandsaw is a bridge too far I think. Question is do I buy a new bandsaw or just bite the bullet and buy a jigsaw. Another option is a scroll saw but from what I've read it seems thats not the best route. I'd need something bench top preferably as I don't have a lot of space but I know that limits things a bit. I'm leaning on the side of the bandsaw as they're so much easier. I'll have a scout on the net tonight and see whats out there and hopefully make a start on the neck template. Will try and get some pics up
     

  9. brownale99

    brownale99 TDPRI Member

    44
    Feb 18, 2017
    Newcastle, UK
    Quick update, transferred neck template to mdf. Wasn't happy with the pdf one downloaded as it didn't quite print out to scale and the fret positions were all wrong. Decided to pull the neck off my tele and alter template to suit that then I used FretFind2d to print out a correct fret layout so I could mark up template for fret markers. Checked with rule and all looks good. Epoxy should be here tomorrow so will hopefully get the templates finished.
    [​IMG]
    Beginning to think I should have bought a slotted fret board for the first attempt as I'll have to get a fret saw and jig now but hey ho I'm in both feet now.
     

    Attached Files:

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  10. Mat UK

    Mat UK Tele-Afflicted

    Feb 17, 2009
    London, UK
    Nice going. What are you using the epoxy for on your template?
     
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  11. brownale99

    brownale99 TDPRI Member

    44
    Feb 18, 2017
    Newcastle, UK
    I've used the neck from my USA tele to make the neck template. I'll then over cut the neck pocket in the body template and put the next template in loosely and fill the gaps with the putty to ensure a tight fit. Just remove the template before the putty sets then let it harden and you have a perfect fit. Full thread below.

    Nick JD's neck pocket thread
     
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  12. Bakeacake08

    Bakeacake08 Tele-Meister

    Age:
    33
    109
    Jul 23, 2016
    Seattle
    I always prefer (all two times...) to do all my cavities and bridge holes etc before cutting out the outline; that way I know I have square reference lines/surfaces so everything lines up straight. I've never worked from templates though so that might change things if I did.

    (How do you do all that with a router without any templates? Clamping straight edges to the piece, and a whole lotta sphincter tightening and praying you're seeing the lines correctly...)
     
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  13. brownale99

    brownale99 TDPRI Member

    44
    Feb 18, 2017
    Newcastle, UK
    Well, got the neck template cut and shaped and overcut the neck pocket on the body template. Lined up the center lines, checked the scale would be right 12.75 from 12th fret then started to apply the putty. Not sure if I've bought the wrong stuff but it stayed soft for an hour and by that time was settting on both outer surfaces and when I tried to remove the neck it started coming away all round. The only bit that went hard was in my eyebrow and it takes some getting out :( I've left the rough shape in the pocket and I'll try sanding to suit tomorrow when its set fully. Bought a new bandsaw Clarke CBS300 at half price and what a difference. I know it doesn't have the depth to resaw but the cost to get that capability is out of my league at the moment. Body now roughed out and ready for routing once the template is finished. I'll get more pics tomorrow and hopefully have all the putty from my eyebrow without losing any o_O
     
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  14. RickyRicardo

    RickyRicardo Friend of Leo's

    Mar 27, 2012
    Calgary, Alberta
    Did you buy plumbers putty or epoxy? I bought putty epoxy that you have to knead to get the hardener to activate. Ready to go in 20 minutes.
     
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  15. brownale99

    brownale99 TDPRI Member

    44
    Feb 18, 2017
    Newcastle, UK
    The putty I bought was milliput super fine. As far as I can tell this should have worked but 24 hours later and it's still soft. Mixed another small amount as a test and still the same, not sure if I have dodgy batch. I did however try the other method of making the neck pocket you mentioned from jack wells using two straight edges clamped on a neck and it worked a treat. I didn't get any pics as I was pressed for time. Will try and update with pics next weekend when I get home. Cheers
     
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  16. brownale99

    brownale99 TDPRI Member

    44
    Feb 18, 2017
    Newcastle, UK
    How do folks, been a while. Had births, deaths, marriages and a job change to contend with but the dust seems to have settled. After hiding in the shed after an argument I spotted this lump of wood and decided to see if I could pick up where I'd left off. After a few semi successful template attempts I was given a set by a friend who no longer had use for them so whilst I was pleased with the ones I had made I decided to use the cnc'd ones.
    [​IMG]
    Where do I start here? routers, what was I thinking. I can use use one of those no problem, how wrong I was. Practice with the tools first on scrap they said, take your time and make sure you're comfortable before jumping in. Oh no not me :( I've learned a valuable lesson lol, respect your router. Body rough cut and and template attached, off I went. Started off no problem and thought I was great
    [​IMG]
    Until I pulled the router away before it stopped spinning
    [​IMG]
    Not content with doing this once I did it another twice, fortunately the neck pocket route came out spot on. Can't say the same about the switch and pickup cavities, the router kept jumping real bad even though I was taking small passes and going slow. The bit is recommended on here so I can only put it down to operator error. Luckily all off the bad routing will be covered.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Ended up buying a second hand triton oss off ebay and I've managed sand out all of the gouges from the outer edges now so all's well there. I'll possibly get round to tidying up the cavities but thats no biggie as they're covered. Just waiting for some long bradpoint bits to arrive so I can drill the through holes for the wiring and a round over bit and the body will be ready for grain filler.
    [​IMG]
    Whilst waiting for the bit to arrive I've decided to make a fret slotting jig so I can start on the neck, its fairly basic and has been well documented on here so I decided to knock one up. I'll post a few pics when its done.
    [​IMG]
    Well thats all for now, hopefully I'll be able to spend a bit more time on this in the coming weeks.
     

    Attached Files:

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  17. Mat UK

    Mat UK Tele-Afflicted

    Feb 17, 2009
    London, UK
    Nice and clean. Great job
     

  18. NotAnotherHobby

    NotAnotherHobby Tele-Afflicted

    Oct 27, 2015
    Da' Magic Mittin'
    Two words: router table.

    I've destroyed several templates trying to route from the top. You can make a crude router table from common materials, and it will give you so much more control over your routes.

    Secondly, make working templates off of your masters. You'll thank me later...

    Edit: also use forstner bits to hog out excess from the cavities before routing.
     
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  19. brownale99

    brownale99 TDPRI Member

    44
    Feb 18, 2017
    Newcastle, UK
    Yip, lesson learned. I've bought a dedicated router table from pingtek. Got it quite cheap, I know its not the greatest but it does the job. Only gripe I have with it is it doesn't have slow start and it scares the hell out of me when I turn it on lol. Just used it today to route the truss rod channel. As for the template, I've already managed to wreck one lol. I've managed to repair it and I've made a working copy now. I've bought a set of forstner bits for the hogging out makes life much easier routing the cavities. Cheers.
    [​IMG]
     

    Attached Files:


  20. Macrogats

    Macrogats Tele-Meister

    Age:
    50
    300
    May 15, 2017
    Auckland, New Zealand
    All good, sound advise. Routing scares the cr@p out of me. I've only got a small laminate hand held atm. I do have an old plunge router which I may look at trying to fix and make a routing table with.

    Did some small routing jobs on a build the other day and learned the effectiveness of using templates. All previous work up til then had been free hand. Scary stuff indeed.
     
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