New Design Proto Build - Lyra

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by preeb, May 16, 2019.

  1. Fred_Garvin

    Fred_Garvin Tele-Holic

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    Welcome back, Preeb! You’ve come a long way from a rooftop shack in Tel Aviv.
     
  2. preeb

    preeb Poster Extraordinaire Vendor Member

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    Miss that shack sometimes...
     
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  3. Jdelys

    Jdelys Tele-Meister Ad Free Member

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    These are just awesome! Thanks for posting. I am particularly interested in seeing the stop piece / floating bridge combo you come up with. I was wondering about leverage on the stop piece studs extending so far out of the body but you have addressed that above.
     
  4. preeb

    preeb Poster Extraordinaire Vendor Member

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    The STP floats but the ABR needs to sit on the top to transfer the vibrations.
     
  5. CFFF

    CFFF Tele-Meister

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    What is STP?
     
  6. kyledb

    kyledb Tele-Meister

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    Who makes this sander?

     
  7. Mexitele Blues

    Mexitele Blues Tele-Meister

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    That shade of green screams Grizzly to me. Appears to have been modified though.
     
  8. nosmo

    nosmo Friend of Leo's

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    Very elegant way to float the top. Beautiful guitars!
     
  9. preeb

    preeb Poster Extraordinaire Vendor Member

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    Sorry... Stop Tail Piece.
     
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  10. preeb

    preeb Poster Extraordinaire Vendor Member

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    I made it using a standard old belt sander and added the face sander assembly and tilting.
     
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  11. preeb

    preeb Poster Extraordinaire Vendor Member

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    Thx
     
  12. preeb

    preeb Poster Extraordinaire Vendor Member

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    Acetone glue in nut slot

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    NuBone material nut

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    Final sanding has 3 steps: Coarse (120), water/Salt solution, fine (220).

    Step 1: 120 grit sanding to remove any tooling marks and scratches and to round any sharp edges

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    Step 2: Special salts mixed in water and applied to the entire instrument outer surface except for the board.
    I repeat this 3-4 times and wait for it to completely dry between applications (this is needed for lowering the moisture content on the surface from 6% to about 1%)
    this is also the step where I start to see the wood and look for any flaws or glue stains etc...

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    Step 3: Fine sanding with 220 grit to remove any raised wood fibers. I also finalize the F holes and STP drills and go over every edge to verify perfection

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    Fingerboard is masked and the guitar needs to be sealed within a few minutes before the dry surface starts to suck moisture from the air...

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    Last edited: Jun 5, 2019
  13. preeb

    preeb Poster Extraordinaire Vendor Member

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    Clear highly cut (mixed with alcohol) Shellac is sprayed to seal the wood prior to pore filling.
    I like to minimize the finish film thickness and the Shellac only needs to seal the surface and bottom the pores and this is the reason I came up with the salt drying process. The wood sucks the thinned shellac in without much excess left on the surface.

    Here are a few wet photos as I sprayed

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    And here are some dry photos a minute later.
    The surface dries in seconds but I let it sit overnight to allow the moisture content to raise back to normal 6-7%


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  14. Asmith

    Asmith Friend of Leo's

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    Just wow, the depth of concept, design and execution is just ineffable.
     
  15. Deeve

    Deeve Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    I just binge-read six pages.
    Not tired - just thirsty for more.
    Is it okay to shout Go Cat Go!
     
  16. pmjennin

    pmjennin TDPRI Member

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    Interesting technique with the salt, Gil. What inspired you to come up with that?
     
  17. preeb

    preeb Poster Extraordinaire Vendor Member

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    I use the same salts (not table salt!!) To treat some of the wood I use and noticed that treated wood absorbs diluted shellac much faster than non treated wood.. so I played with it a little till I found the right combination of treatment/dilution/spraying.
     
  18. KingKara

    KingKara TDPRI Member

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    Brillant idea preeb !
     
  19. Zepfan

    Zepfan Poster Extraordinaire

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    Great looking design. How about a P90 version?
     
  20. preeb

    preeb Poster Extraordinaire Vendor Member

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    Old school oil pore filler mixed from boiled linseed oil, 4F pumice, mineral spirits, lacquer and oil soluble dark mahogany aniline pigment powder.

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    Application is with a brush and then I force the stuff into the pores with burlap

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    Once it hardens a little about 30 minutes later I repeat and leave it until the shine is gone and it's looking a little hazy

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    then I scrape it flat and hang it for 48 hours. Very messy process... but it has to be done properly twice in order to allow a good surface for super thin lacquer coat.
     
    Last edited: Jun 6, 2019
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