No to this part. Separate means no sharing with the power grounds / circuit grounds / PT grounds / coffee grounds. Don't overthink this. If I'm right, the ground off the filter caps should just go to the same point as the center tap off your PT (have you ID'd that little sucker yet) -- and many many of us just use a PT bolt for that. As we discussed, other than the safety ground, don't sweat the small stuff *too much* -- as long as your (current, modern) *circuit* grounds go somewhere, the amp will work, and a few simple power wiring steps will make it work safely. The 100R artificial CT resistors anchor to the chassis, not the lamp. Rob has a tidy way to put 'em on a socket, but if there's any space under the lamp, I just run 'em to a solder lug or *another* PT bolt. If it isn't clear, *this* 'CT' is for the heaters; the one we talk about above is for the B+ / HT winding. Here's the best pic I could hunt up. Let me take your mind off grounding for a minute : Have you built your input jacks yet? Simple way is to do it on the outside of the chassis so the spacing is right (L and R are maintained just as you look at 'em -- no mirror image -- don't get confused). I like the pic and notes Doug Hoffman has for these, except 1) the lugs will line up if you use the chassis holes for a jig, and it's easier to do it outside than inside and 2) he puts the 68ks on the input array. This has theoretic advantages, but it's a lot trickier to assemble and solder both upstream and downstream, and for a small tweed amp I would definitely leave the 68ks on the board where you have 'em.