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New 5E3 build from Mable Audio kit

Discussion in 'Shock Brother's DIY Amps' started by tombob, Dec 14, 2017.

  1. tombob

    tombob Tele-Holic

    Age:
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    Jun 25, 2010
    Sonora, TX
    I wanted to give a report on how the mid control and other mods are working after playing through the amp and trying things out. The Framus mid control is great! I can get a sound similar to a Blackface Princeton with the mids cranked most of the way down, even closer with NFB loop added in. I'm glad I put a switch to bypass the mid control too, it's going to be handy to be able to keep it set how I want it and just turn it on or off. I'm liking the mid control enough that I wouldn't mind putting one in my 5f6a as well. There's some loss with it turned down but nothing I can't easily live with.
     
    robrob likes this.

  2. tombob

    tombob Tele-Holic

    Age:
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    Jun 25, 2010
    Sonora, TX
    I'm going to use a Eminence Commonwealth 15 with my 5e3 for now. I still want to get a pair of WGS G10C/S for it but until I recover from Christmas I'll use this 15" I have. I want to put the 15" in another matching cab I have once I get the 10s anyway so I can use this baffle.
    I was using the Commonwealth with my Twin Reverb after my D130 JBL developed a rub but I'm going to get the JBL reconed as a D130f and use it with my TR. I've got my Twin in a Dual Showman Reverb head cab and used it with the d130, considering how hard I've run it, it's amazing how the 25 watt D130 held up before starting to rub.
     

  3. tombob

    tombob Tele-Holic

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    Jun 25, 2010
    Sonora, TX
    I put the amp in a speaker cab I built a couple of years ago that I converted into a combo cab. I've got a Emi Commonwealth 15 in it right now. Later I'm going to put it in a tweed Super 2x10 cab (ordered with the 5e3 chassis cutout) with WGS g10c/s speakers. Although I may build another 5e3 just like this one to put in the 2x10 cab and leave this a 1x15.

    image.jpeg image.jpeg
     
    whoanelly15 likes this.

  4. robrob

    robrob Poster Extraordinaire Ad Free Member

    Dec 29, 2012
    United States
    ^Love your cab.
     

  5. robrob

    robrob Poster Extraordinaire Ad Free Member

    Dec 29, 2012
    United States

  6. tombob

    tombob Tele-Holic

    Age:
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    Jun 25, 2010
    Sonora, TX
    Thanks Rob, I built a pair of those cabs so I have another like it. I'm thinking about putting a 2x10 baffle in the one with the amp and move the 1x15 to the empty one (I originally had a 12" in both cabs) so I can have 10s in the amp and a 15" extension cab. I wouldn't mind building another 5e3 for the other cab and make it a 2x10 combo so I could run 2x10 and 1x15 tweed Deluxes in stereo.
    I put the switch on my mid control where it bypasses the pot. Where I ended up putting the pot I had to run about 8 inches of wiring to it so I wanted to remove it when I wasn't using it to to make sure there's no added noise. After I finished I don't notice any extra noise with it on and the mids turned up so I'll know next time.

    This is how I ended up doing it.
    image.jpeg
     

  7. tombob

    tombob Tele-Holic

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    Jun 25, 2010
    Sonora, TX
    I have a question for the knowledge folks on here.
    Is there a reason why you can't use dropping resistors to run the 6.3v heater tap to a rectifier tube. I'm sure I could find the right resistance to drop to 5v and put the resistors (or maybe Zeners?) directly on the tube socket.
    Is there a noise issue or current issue to do this?
    I'm thinking about looking for a jet city 20 watt head with a bad pcb and use the chassis/iron to do a tweed type build. They've got good iron for the price, a ply cab and decent chassis. Good ones can be gotten for under $200 and tons were sold to those wanting to learn modding so "as-is for repair" ones should be around and cheap. The iron is about right for a 6v6 tweed amp. I'm wanting to do a 5f6a/jtm45 6v6, 20 watt head with one. I have thought about using a socket without heater current too and put a Weber coppercap in it but I thought I'd ask why the 6.3v wouldn't work dropped to 5v.
     

  8. clintj

    clintj Friend of Leo's

    Apr 4, 2015
    Idaho
    The 5V rectifier voltage floats on top of the B+ voltage, so no. It has to be a separate winding from the 6.3V heater supply.
     

  9. robrob

    robrob Poster Extraordinaire Ad Free Member

    Dec 29, 2012
    United States
    Like clintj says, a 6.3v center tap (real or artificial) would ground the B+ voltage.

    You can use a 6.3v EZ81 rectifier and feed it with your standard 6.3v heaters because the cathode is indirectly heated. I use the EZ81 in my tweed micro amps.
     

  10. tombob

    tombob Tele-Holic

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    Jun 25, 2010
    Sonora, TX
    Ok, that makes sense. I've never used a EZ81 but I'll read up on them.
    I've been thinking about doing more of a 6v6, 20w version of the old Sovtek Mig 50s (they're basically a jtm45 with SS rectification) and maybe add a sag resistor. I always liked the sound of those Mig 50s, especially with 5157s in the first couple of preamp slots. I love my 5f6a but it has more output than I need for smaller club gigs and I really like the idea of a 6v6 head version with a 20w OT.
    It seems like a Jet City jca20h would be a good platform to gut the PCB, add a choke and chassis mounted pots and tube sockets for a turret board conversion. The PT and OT should work well with 6V6s and they're not bad built transformers, especially considering the price range of the amps. I've seen good working ones for $175 so if I'm patient I'd think one with PCB problems should be findable for under $100. It should make an enjoyable project for not too much $$.
     

  11. RLee77

    RLee77 Friend of Leo's

    May 15, 2016
    Silicon Valley
    Just use the weber coppercap.
     
    tombob likes this.

  12. tombob

    tombob Tele-Holic

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    Jun 25, 2010
    Sonora, TX
    I've thought that myself. I was thinking with a larger chassis you could mount a CopperCap laying down inside like the multi section caps in some older Marshalls and solder the leads directly to the pins. The PT in the jca20h is designed to work with a SS rectifier so I'd need a gz34 replacement, without a voltage drop there shouldn't be too much heat.
     

  13. tonejunkie99

    tonejunkie99 TDPRI Member

    Age:
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    6
    Jun 6, 2018
    Usa
    Hey fellas,
    I built a Mable 5e3 to use at some of my blues shows... here's a video link -
    Let me know your thoughts...
    I'm pleased with the tones, mine is 100% stock, except I use JJ 6v6's for gigs... I have recently blown the 5k resistor that bridges the last 2 filter caps though... not sure why it blew I'm not a good trouble shooter...
    PS: This clip is with a Weber classic alnico 12.
    I originally ran a Celestion Alnico Gold, but it brightened the amp a bit much for my taste.
    Kindest Regards
    DW
     
    Last edited: Jun 6, 2018
    KPAE likes this.

  14. tombob

    tombob Tele-Holic

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    Jun 25, 2010
    Sonora, TX
    I don't remember what rating the 5k is between those filter caps but if you replace it with a good 3w, metal or carbon film and make sure it's off the board a bit for cooling I'd think it'd be good. It does seem to help to keep them cooler leaving just a bit of clearance between the turret board and the resistor.
     
    tonejunkie99 likes this.

  15. tonejunkie99

    tonejunkie99 TDPRI Member

    Age:
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    6
    Jun 6, 2018
    Usa
    Much thanks TomBob...
    Nearest I can tell the 5k is 1w...
    I will procure a 3w carbon film and give it a run... hopefully it'll get this little jewel back sounding sweet...
    Kindest Regards
    DW
     

  16. tonejunkie99

    tonejunkie99 TDPRI Member

    Age:
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    Jun 6, 2018
    Usa
    one thing I'd like to mention to anyone purchasing the 5e3 from Mable... the cabinet is not covered with real tweed, but rather some type of tweed looking tolex... although it looks decent, it doesn't shellac very well. Also the speaker hole is cut in the center of the baffle, which depending on speaker selection- may or may not clear the output tubes... also the cabinet is not finger jointed... if I order another, it will just be the chassis kit only and no cabinet...
     
    robrob likes this.

  17. tombob

    tombob Tele-Holic

    Age:
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    Jun 25, 2010
    Sonora, TX
    I didn't get the cab, it was reasonable priced but the shipping with the cab was quite a bit more than without. The peavey classic amps have that tweed pattern tolex and it looks good. I had a classic 50 and a delta blues and the covering was really tough. I'm planning on getting one of the jtm45 kits from them sometime too.
     

  18. tombob

    tombob Tele-Holic

    Age:
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    Jun 25, 2010
    Sonora, TX
    I was going to mention... I bought a cab off of eBay from the guy that owns Rawcabs. It's excellent quality, half blind dovetail joints, solid white pine and sanded to 150 grit. They're unfinished and uncovered so if you want tweed you have to cover it and laquer it yourself. I varnished mine but however you go with his cabs they are very good. He'll work with you on custom details too if you want.
    I said I would like to build a jtm45 from Mable and I think I'm going to get a cab from him for it too. I haven't completely decided but I either want a 1x12 combo cab (made like a narrower Bluesbreaker cab) or more likely a head cab just wide enough for the chassis (20-22 inches wide).
     
    KPAE likes this.

  19. Bill Moore

    Bill Moore Tele-Holic

    I too bought one of Refugio's cabs, very nice!
     
    KPAE likes this.

  20. tonejunkie99

    tonejunkie99 TDPRI Member

    Age:
    53
    6
    Jun 6, 2018
    Usa
    IMG_4939.JPG The resistor seems to be 5.1k looks like 1watt...
    I'm having trouble sourcing a 2 or 3 watt carbon... any suggestions?
     

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