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Discussion in 'Glowing Bottle Tube Amp Forum' started by -Hawk-, Sep 21, 2017.
Considering the price is the same, is there a benefit you see with one over the other?
The 70/40/40@450v is the same price but, this amp has diode rectification. The 450v rating may be too close for comfort when powering on.
Thanks, I'll keep that in mind.
Just found a guy that has at least some Ampeg experience and is respected around here. He says he can source the parts and would estimate (loosely) an hour at $70 for the work, but possibly a little more. Wish I knew what he charged for the parts - ha!
Congrats on taking the leap! Looks like a great adventure and a good score.
I'd almost be willing to bet that can cap got busted loose from the chassis breaking off the shelf and someone siliconed it back in place - that was actually a novel and imaginative solution, IMO.
Sounds like you've got a good plan for tech review and work. One other recommendation - although I don't know if this the same for your amp - like jimytheassassin, I have a Gemini II and every time you want to pull the chassis, you have to clip the leads to the speaker.
since mine is in the shop as we speak (new electrolytics), I also am having the tech install a 1/4" jack and input for the speaker, so I can just unplug the speaker if I want to pull the chassis. I've got an older Gibson amp that I have almost burned off the speaker lead brackets for soldering the leads on and off again. Just convenience.
That's a good call actually. I watched a service video on YouTube and I think there was a label inside the amp saying the speaker had to be removed. Wouldn't mind having the footswitch set up in a similar way. It's hard wired, which I thought was interesting.
On a side note, the reverb switch on the footswitch doesn't seem to work, though the reverb does work. Not sure if that's worth paying to have looked at since I'd probably only use the Trem side anyway.
I've got the original footswitch as well, and in the same vein, I don't use the reverb hardly ever, but a simple switch like that makes for a good DIY project?
That extra click stop setting on the Trem is pretty wild! fun to play with, but I haven't found an actual spot for it playing live ... yet...
If the switch doesn't work (no click click), I can tell you from personal experience of the same issue i had with my gemini II. While you could buy a new switch to replace it, it won't be an exact replacement. Instead, I repaired mine, and detailed it in my thread about my Gemini II.
Here's the thread over at AGF http://www.aguitarforum.com/threads/1966-ampeg-gemini-ii.94935/page-2
Page 1 starts with my purchase, and has lots of juicy inside photos to peruse. I think i made a video of the before and after of the "no-click" and the "click" afterwards. It isn't in this thread though.. well anyways it's not any more informative than the photos
If yours is like mine, then the Brass shaft is bent from years of hard work. Note that in the photo. It's easy to bend back straight. Disassembly/Reassembly takes some patience, and careful note of part order but it's not that hard for anyone to do. i used a simple flat blade screw driver to lightly pry the "fingers" on one side of the switch body, and keep it spread open while i then did likewise on the other side. After this point it's cake. The click click should return if you did it right.
The other side of the switch and "rolling contact" are photographed in my thread
Very interesting! I'll be sure to check that thread out this afternoon. Seems I have a click, but no on/off as a result. Maybe there's just a loose connection.
I was in a band in the late 70's doing frontman duties.
Our bass player bought a 60's Ampeg head and stack used.
The first night he gigged it we were loading into the venue, and a slip of paper fell out of it that said: "Inspected By Elmer Kennedy".
Elmer Kennedy became my stage name until the band went our separate ways 6 years later.
Could be. Or; switch issue. Cable issue. Components near the tube that drives it. In the end it's a bad ground connection I'd guess somewhere in that path. From what I understand a ground return turns the reverb off. The switch is there to interrupt the ground loop. That will take a little extra looking around at continuity and voltages
I think I'll save that project for a lazy day, should one appear. No overwhelming reason to pay for it at this point I don't think.
That thread you linked was quite informative. Cool looking amp you got there - and for a great price.
There is a lot of speculation that the reason a lot of these still have the original footswitches is because they are hardwired! Mine came with the switch still intact, one side non-functional. I just put a new switch in.
It threw me for a loop when I saw the cord traveling up through the chassis. Not to mention the funky little spring that holds it.
Thanks! Ya the amp is still waiting on the bench for me to have some free time. Too many projects take precedence in good weather unfortunately. The good news is your reverb issue is probably a simple one to diagnose for a tech. It works so that's the best news.
Very cool amp, I have one like it.
Cool amp and a good score!
I've had a lot of old Ampegs and still have a first gen reverberocket.
Not much advice about getting the basic service done.
Ampeg seems to have often mounted chassis' with gaps to let heat out, some being obvious and not adjustable, not sure about the gap here though.
A piece of aluminum angle stock screwed to the inside of the cab makes a good place to hardwire jacks for the footswitch and speaker.
Also, this is a nice warm sounding amp with beautiful detailed but sweet highs.
I would not choose a hemp cone C rex with muted high end for an amp like this. A good speaker for solving problems this amp does not have IMO.
Well dang! Somewhere else I read somebody's thoughts that the C Rex was a good match, but it definitely seems full bodied and warm as you say. Really, I just wasn't sure if keeping the stock speaker would result in ruining it. As much as I'd like to, I'm probably not going to get to turn it up very loud with the band anyway.
Mine came with a JBL E 120. Way too much speaker and way too heavy. I put in an Eminence Legend in it. When I'm looking for a clean speaker the legend 1268 seems to fit the bill.
As mentioned the cap can could of busted loose and been "glued" or possibly it got stuffed with new individual caps and "glued" in. I'd get a new one regardless.
That speaker isn't original. Probably came with a CTS alnico which are great for playing at home, low efficiency. But for any kind of gigging something newer is louder and I've found Ampeg need a little boost.
If you recover you can't get that blue check tolex anymore unless you know someone with it. Or they started making it again?
As mentioned a speaker jack is a great idea.
Hopefully it's a tag board and not the early printed board. No big deal but the early PCB are a bit tricky to service and you will want to change all the electrolytics on the board.
Nice amp ! I would've grabbed it too !