My new-to-me Traynor YGM-3

Discussion in 'Glowing Bottle Tube Amp Forum' started by wildbill59, Mar 11, 2019.

  1. galaxiex

    galaxiex Tele-Holic Silver Supporter

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    I'd like to point out here, that the amp he is working on does not have main filter can caps like your amp.
    His amp has the main filter caps inside the chassis. Those tan tubular "dynamite stick" looking things. :)

    If you go this route to use different value filter caps, those F&T or other brand axial caps, will need to be fastened somewhere inside the chassis,

    You will need to find room for them and fabricate a bracket of some sort to hold them.

    If you do this, and also remove your existing can caps, you end up with 2 large empty holes in the chassis.

    My personal preference would be to find appropriate can caps that fit your chassis.
    Unfortunately they will be more expensive than the axial type.
     
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  2. wildbill59

    wildbill59 TDPRI Member

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    Sweet! Nice tone, love the reverb on these amps too.
     
  3. wildbill59

    wildbill59 TDPRI Member

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    Yep - time to get out the ol' soldering iron. Thanks for the advice!
     
  4. wildbill59

    wildbill59 TDPRI Member

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    Yeah, I gotta get in touch with Yorkville to get some info - of course mine would be the 5 digits!
     
  5. wildbill59

    wildbill59 TDPRI Member

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    Excellent. I used to get their catalogs more than a decade ago, when I stopped getting them I thought they'd gone under. Those F&Ts will do fine by me, can't beat the price. And I think I'll try the 32/32 and the 16/16 - thanks again for the advice!
     
  6. wildbill59

    wildbill59 TDPRI Member

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    No, that was pure luck. I deal with mowers and tractors, a guy called me about some tractor parts at his father's house that he was cleaning out. I wasn't all that interested in the parts, but something told me to go anyway. When I got there, I told him I also am always looking for musical instruments and stereo equip. He tells me that his dad's amp has been sitting in the basement for years, he's sure it won't work after sitting so long, and I can have it. I told him I'd want to give him 20 bucks for letting me have it, he was very pleased with that (as was I!). What do they say - sometimes even a blind squirrel finds a nut?!
     
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  7. wildbill59

    wildbill59 TDPRI Member

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    Well, now I'm confused. I saw Pat Furlan's video, and I saw that his Traynor has the big 'dynamite stick' capacitor - that's what I expected to find in mine also. But mine has the two Mallorys, just like yours. And the F&Ts that Beyer160 is using - the 32/32s and 16/16s - it seems like they're the same size as mine (and your CEs), and have the two + and one - terminal like mine too. Please click on his link, maybe you're thinking of something different. From what I gathered, I'd unsolder the two Mallory 40/40s from the chassis (like you explained, thanks!), and then install the two 1 3/8 x 2" F&Ts in those holes, and fasten them to the chassis with clamps, the kind like it looks like you used on your CEs (and also recommended by AES). Please - I mean no disrespect - but maybe you're thinking of different caps or a different amp. Otherwise - what I thought I had figured out, I was completely wrong about!
     
  8. Nightclub Dwight

    Nightclub Dwight Tele-Holic

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    That's some good Karma paying off for you! Good for you. My brother and I always say, you gotta be in the game to win it. Back in October I answered a Craigslist ad for a few old bodies, necks and disassembled parts for twenty bucks. I figured I could learn fretwork on the necks, and maybe get a playable guitar out of it. When I got there they said it was their son's stuff, but he is grown and has moved away and has no interest, so maybe I could take a look at some other stuff they had. I ended up walking out with a Leslie 16, a refinished Gibson SG, a box of cables and cords, several boxes of parts as well as the disassembled bodies and necks, all for $200. It makes up for all the other times when you call on an ad and never hear back.
     
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  9. galaxiex

    galaxiex Tele-Holic Silver Supporter

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    Apologies,
    I didn't look at the link for the cap that Beyer160 posted, I just looked at the vid from Pat Furlan.

    So now I look at the link for the cap that Beyer160 posted and yes,
    those will work, but you will need to buy mounting clamps for them.
    And drill holes to mount the caps. (I see you know that already) :)

    Just my opinion, but if the amp was mine, I'd use the CE type that solders in like the originals.
    You Guitar Mate is so nice and clean, I wouldn't want to drill holes to use those clamp mount F&T's.

    I understand wanting to save a buck or 2... and really,
    it probably won't devalue the amp (much, if at all) if you use the clamp type and drill holes...

    For the record, the CE caps I used are soldered in, just like the originals, no clamps.
     
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  10. galaxiex

    galaxiex Tele-Holic Silver Supporter

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    Here's a shot of mine from inside the chassis with the new caps soldered in.
    The 4 little tabs on each are bent/folded against the chassis and soldered.
    That also makes the ground connection for the can cap.

    The F&T clamp mount will require a ground wire to be added, as the clamp does not ground the cap(s).

    Possibly you noticed the fat ring around one end of the CE cap and thought that was a clamp?

    It's not, it's just the way the cap is made, similar to the originals. :)

    100_2629.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2019 at 10:13 PM
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  11. galaxiex

    galaxiex Tele-Holic Silver Supporter

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    Here are the CE caps I used.

    https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/capacitor-ce-mfg-500v-402020uf

    Note they say...
    • FP / Twist Lock Style. Solder Tabs.
    Some amps/equipment have slots that those tabs fit through, and then the tabs are twisted to lock the cap in place.

    These Guitar Mate amps don't have the slots, and as mentioned/shown, just fold the tab against the chassis and solder.
     
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  12. wildbill59

    wildbill59 TDPRI Member

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    Hey, no problem - I really appreciate your advice and your input, I'm just glad I'm not losing it (guess that's all relative!). Good point about drilling holes in the clean chassis, I should have my amp back by the beginning of next week - if I have to replace a whole lot of parts, I might go with the inexpensive caps. But if I just need the electrolytics, maybe I'll splurge on ones with more of a factory-style mounting setup. Again, really appreciate the advice and info, I'll let you know how it turns out!
     
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  13. wildbill59

    wildbill59 TDPRI Member

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  14. beyer160

    beyer160 Friend of Leo's

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    My $.02 on the cap thing:

    -Traynors will never have any vintage collector value. They're tools, modify them as you see fit.

    -Either set of caps will work, it really comes down to the cost/convenience matrix: is it worth the extra money to you to not have to drill the chassis? In the interests of full disclosure, my amp already had brackets installed so the choice was a no-brainer for me.

    -You're definitely going to want to replace more than just the filter caps. The bias caps for sure, and if you're gonna do that you might as well add in a bias pot which, to do right, requires drilling a hole for the pot. In an amp this old though, you'll want to shotgun all the electrolytic caps- do it all at once while you're already in there, and save yourself the headache later. Electronic components were made to a higher standard in the '70s, but those electrolytics are way, way past their lifespan. Beef up the screen resistor, too- household voltages are higher today than they were 50 years ago. Those parts are all cheap though, I think I spent about $50 overhauling mine and that included a generic 2-button footswitch.
     
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  15. galaxiex

    galaxiex Tele-Holic Silver Supporter

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    Here's a shot of mine with the bias caps replaced. (The 2 blue caps)
    The little yellow box is a multi turn 50K pot for the bias adjustment.

    Doing it this way, there is no need to drill a hole in the chassis for a bias pot.
    The down side is, you have to pull the chassis to adjust bias, not really a big deal.

    Whatever you decide, have fun with it. :)

    100_2630.jpg
     
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  16. beyer160

    beyer160 Friend of Leo's

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    The reason I said the "right" way involved drilling a hole for a pot was that people often use the wrong style trimmer pots, and they wind up being soldered into the eyelets with the leads stretched out in some wonky way that makes you wonder if they're gonna break loose when you try and adjust it. Yours looks great.
     
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