My new-to-me Traynor YGM-3

Discussion in 'Glowing Bottle Tube Amp Forum' started by wildbill59, Mar 11, 2019.

  1. idjster

    idjster VERY grateful member Silver Supporter

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    I had one, point-to-point wiring, hand wired. Loved it! I has now gone on to a friend's son who has used it to learn guitar, and who has become very proficient. He's come a long way with it. Great amp, and I only let it go because I have too many amps and I'm too fond of my others. It was a tough choice!
     
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  2. wildbill59

    wildbill59 TDPRI Member

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    With pleasure! Since it's all stock and pretty clean, I'm gonna see what kind of tones I can get out of it with just external upgrades like tubes and a different speaker. Then I might remove the presence cap, change out a few things - sort of step-by-step, see where it takes me. Also - as I guy that's learning - which ones are the electro caps? Thanks for the great info, cheers to you too!
     
  3. wildbill59

    wildbill59 TDPRI Member

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    Yep, mine has the five digit model # too. I think I'll try contacting Yorkville, see what they say. upload_2019-3-12_23-3-4.png
     
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  4. wildbill59

    wildbill59 TDPRI Member

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    Yes sir, it does! And it's a really nice, lush reverb. With the exception of what I'm told is a factory upgrade speaker, it's all stock - even has the original foam over the tank in perfect shape! Yeah, this amp was pampered, and although I will make it sing for it's supper, I'll keep on pampering it too. upload_2019-3-12_23-9-11.png
     
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  5. wildbill59

    wildbill59 TDPRI Member

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    Yeah, I'm so impressed with the wiring on these, especially after seeing what's inside some new amps, huh?
     
  6. galaxiex

    galaxiex Tele-Holic Silver Supporter

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    On the circuit board, the electro caps are the blue tubular units.

    I can just about guarantee they will be bad.
    Electrolytic caps "dry out" with age, tho they may seem to work,
    there is usually a tone improvement from replacing them.
    If the small electros on the board fail completely, they won't normally hurt anything.

    Of greater concern is the large Cap Cans attached to the chassis.
    Those are electrolytic as well, and if they go down, they can take the power transformer with them, and maybe more.

    They may seem to be working, but an amp with ~ 40 year old caps is a ticking time bomb.

    Please, please, please get them replaced.
    Some more cautious members here would advise you to not turn the amp on until those caps are replaced.

    Normal life span for almost any electro caps in a guitar amp is ~ 10-15 years, whether the amp is used or not.
    Actually, storage is probably harder on the caps, than if the amp is in continuous use.

    The regular application of voltage helps to "form" the electrolyte in the caps and keep them working.

    They dry out faster with non-use.

    HTH
     
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  7. Jakeboy

    Jakeboy Tele-Afflicted

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    I should not have sold mine either. Google the mods that remove the brightness a bit....simp,y removing a cap or two IIRC. I did it and it was easy.

    An Emi Texas Heat was the PERFECT speaker for the amp. It is a Fender Deluxe Reverb KILLER. Enjoy.
     
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  8. galaxiex

    galaxiex Tele-Holic Silver Supporter

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    Maybe some help dating your amp....

    If the Mallory cap cans are original and say made in Canada, these don't use the normal EIA codes during this time.
    the Canadian Mallory codes are...

    DE = Mallory
    then there will be a letter and a number

    The letter is the month so A=Jan B=Feb etc.
    The following number will be the year, so 0= 1970 9=1969 etc.

    The original cap cans from mine have the code DEB0

    So...
    DE=Mallory
    B=Feb
    0=1970

    Which corresponds with what the fellow that told me mine was made April 1970.

    100_2624.jpg

    I now have these new CE caps in mine.

    100_2627.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2019 at 11:59 PM
  9. charlie chitlin

    charlie chitlin Doctor of Teleocity Silver Supporter

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    Yeah...I don't recall the Marsland looking like that.
    IIRC it has a silver colored frame and different pattern to the basket.
    And...as folks said...those electrolytics (filter and bypass caps) should be replaced ASAP.
    Unfortunately, those cap cans will be over $30 each, but, hey...you got the amp cheap, right?
     
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  10. beyer160

    beyer160 Friend of Leo's

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    I think I paid $8 each for the F&Ts I put in mine.
     
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  11. flyswatter

    flyswatter Friend of Leo's

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    I checked my YGM-2 and it has the 7-digit serial number; 2 is the first digit (so 1972) and it has the logo plate that goes with the early 70s Traynors.

    Not sure what's up with those 5-digit serial numbers; seems to be another system besides the 4 or 7 digit codes.
     
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  12. wildbill59

    wildbill59 TDPRI Member

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    I appreciate the advice, I'm going to follow it. The smaller electros I think I can handle - looks pretty straightforward, but I'm gonna need some advice on the filter caps. I understand how to drain them (I promise to be very careful!), but how are they mounted to the chassis? I see four blobs of solder on each cap - are they soldered to it? I read something about them twisting in, it almost looks like your old Mallorys were almost press-fitted into the chassis. Mine are the same caps. Thanks for sharing your knowledge! upload_2019-3-14_2-40-39.png
     
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2019 at 2:40 AM
  13. wildbill59

    wildbill59 TDPRI Member

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    I've heard good things about those too. There's so many to chose from, it's gonna be a tough decision!
     
  14. wildbill59

    wildbill59 TDPRI Member

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    I'm picking up the amp on Sat., I'll be checking that out. I'm pretty sure they're Canadian Mallorys, but I didn't write down the codes. Maybe this mystery will finally be solved - thanks again! Also, do you hear any difference between the stock 40/40s and your 40/20/20 CEs? Or are those values the same and just a different way of stating them?
     
  15. wildbill59

    wildbill59 TDPRI Member

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    Holy **** - it's you! A pleasure to be chatting with you! I was just going to quote your post from the AGF forum, I know a member recommended that you name your amp the 'Traynor Beyer 160', and it just hit me! Very cool. So what I was going to ask, and now I can ask you directly: I'm looking for something different than the typical Fender/Marshall sound, so other than the speaker, I want to keep it stock and make a few mods at a time. I want it to break up some when pushed, but I had read what you said about the 50/50s and not being able to get any dirt out of them - that's no good. I see that Parts Express has 50/50s and 32/32s, but I haven't seen any 16s anywhere. I don't want the 50s (too clean) - should a pair of 32s give the desired effect, or should I try to find a 16 to go with the 32? I have a Fender and a small Marshall if I wanna get all metal and noisy, but I want to pair this amp with a twangy Tele, so I'm looking for some clearness and break-up without being blaring or too harsh. I had mentioned before (before realized it was you) - when I first got this amp about a month ago, I started doing research, and I found your post on AGF - I've got it saved, and I keep going back to it for reference. Great work. and last but not least - do you mind sharing your parts source? I've been pricing filter caps, 8 buck F&Ts sound great to me at this point! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
     
  16. beyer160

    beyer160 Friend of Leo's

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    As I said in the AGF thread, I'm no amp expert- I just compiled a list of mods from other sources. I got my caps from Antique Electronic Supply/Tubesandmore:

    https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/capacitor-ft-multi-section-electrolytic

    They're around $10 list, I now remember I was using a 20% coupon they put out occasionally. Great for those big projects!

    As for the cap values, I find the 32/32 and 16/16 give me a good range of dirt from clean Deluxe Reverb-ish to Tweed Deluxe-ish (especially with the NFB switched out). I didn't try it with 32/32 in both positions, though. One other thing I'll say is that I'm eventually going to reverse the trem mods- I find it too slow now.
     
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  17. Strato50

    Strato50 Tele-Afflicted

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    Mine with the Marshall mods.


     
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  18. Nightclub Dwight

    Nightclub Dwight Tele-Holic

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    Nice score! I picked up a YBM for a song on behalf of my brother last year, and I've been looking for my own Traynor ever since. You didn't find that on Craigslist, did you? I keep a daily watch on the Pittsburgh list and I would kick myself if I missed it there.
     
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  19. galaxiex

    galaxiex Tele-Holic Silver Supporter

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    The cap cans are soldered to the chassis with those 4 little bent tabs.
    To remove the old, and install new caps, you need a fairly big soldering iron

    I have a 80 watt Weller with a huge chisel tip.
    It gets the job done fast.
     
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  20. galaxiex

    galaxiex Tele-Holic Silver Supporter

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    I couldn't find 40 40 cap cans that would fit the chassis,
    so with the CE caps I bought, I connected the 20 20 on each cap can in parallel.

    So each cap can ends up as a 40 40, same as stock.
     
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2019 at 3:57 PM
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