This was born out of desperation to try winding pickups, and just going for the absolute bare minimum with what I already had available. (With the exception of the Mojotone Hand Guided Tensioner: I splurged for one of those and am glad I did. Being completely new to this, hand guiding the wire led to me breaking it multiple times, and almost giving up out of frustration) And I wanted to get it assembled fast so I could get winding ASAP. First I'll break it down step by step: I made this little fixture to assemble the flatwork/magnets. Cut and beveled a piece of plywood, and drilled it out. I think I just put a bottom piece of flatwork on it, and drilled right through it on my drill press, with a bit slightly undersized so it wouldn't ruin the flatwork. And then I opened up the holes with a bit about .003" larger than the rod magnets, and then epoxied some pickguard blank material on top of it to get it to the right thickness. And then drilled it out again. Then I awkwardly cut the whole thing in half, as close to the center of the holes as I could, with my Fret Slotting saw from Stewmac. The only reason for the pickguard material was because it was the only thing I had that was around the right thickness. Although in hindsight I do think it makes it less prone to cracking while hammering the flatwork on. I did go over all the holes in the plywood with superglue to toughen them up and prevent just that from happening. I either hammer them in the bottom flatwork to get them started, or (as I originally planned), use two locating dowels on the outside E pole pieces, assemble both pieces around them, then use a steel rod chucked in the drill press as an arbor to press the magnets into the flatwork, thru the holes that I drilled about .003" oversize of the rod magnets. The holes have to be wide enough for the rod magnets to slide in, but need to be firm enough to keep them in place. I overlooked the fact that when you cut the whole thing in half, you significantly increase the total size of the hole, as you're removing thousandths of material as you saw it out. Anyway, the holes were probably slightly bigger than they needed to be, but it worked fine for holding the flatwork together and keeping the rod magnets trued up as I pressed them in. When I have the inner rods mounted, I take the locating dowels out and press in the outside E magnets, then hammer the top flatwork on. The body of the fixture ensures that the distance between the bottom and top pieces will be consistent. I measured my CS '69 pickup and copied the distance between the flatwork pieces as close as I could (I think it's about .445" if I remember). I made the traverse limiter by cutting a wood dowel, drilling a hole through it, then sawing it in half. Then I mounted a steel rod with two drill stops on it between the dowel halves thru the holes, and 5-minute-epoxied the ends of the rod in. As you can see I wasn't very careful with the epoxy Then I just Titebonded them to a plywood square as a base. The steel rod is an old transfer punch that I cut to size. And then polished by chucking it into a drill and running it over increasingly fine grits of sandpaper, then hitting it with Blue Magic metal polish at the end before sliding the drill stops onto it. I used the non-polished half of the transfer punch that I cut as a mount in the plywood block that I drilled out. I used my Woodpecker Mini Square, a 2" clamp, and a trigger clamp to make sure that the rod was at a perfect 90 degree angle to the plywood block while the 5 minute epoxy set up. The 2" clamp held the Mini Square in place, while the trigger clamp pulled the rod taut against the square. I think this is actually pretty important, so here's a pic of how I did that: I used the Mojotone Hand Guided Tensioner in my left hand, while my right thumb pulled the trigger on the drill. And held it steady. I didn't mount the drill on anything, just had it standing there. Setting the drill stops on the traverse limiter was a little scary knowing my drill could possibly move. Or even the limiter itself. But the mat I have on my workbench provided enough traction to keep them in place. It ended up being a non-issue. I just think it's not worth the hassle and sweat in the future to do something so unstable, but for just starting out it got the job done, albeit awkwardly. In the future I'd like to set up a more foolproof method for the traverse limiter, as IMO this seems to be the most critical aspect. If the wire goes out of bounds, you're all done. I did get this to work well enough to wind a pickup but it was a challenge, and my hands hurt a lot when I was done. Having the limiter and the winder on the same fixture would be ideal, like on a traditional winder. I also filed the eyelets flush with the flatwork. I don't have an eyelet setting tool and I wanted to make sure the wire didn't snag on the eyelets. Seems to have worked just fine. Anyway, here's the final setup: That's about it for now. Only thing I left out was magnetizing the pickup, which I did using my Nut/Saddle Vise from Stewmac, as well as the Stewmac guitar repair magnets. Got the idea right from their website explaining how to do it, and it worked like a charm. Bottom of page here: http://www.stewmac.com/How-To/Onlin...hniques/How_To_Use_Guitar_Repair_Magnets.html I'd like to get a much more foolproof setup going, but I was itching to try my hand at winding a pickup, and this got the job done. And all in all it didn't take long to make all the parts for it. I only wanted to wind a handful of pickups and couldn't justify dropping hundreds on a pre-made winder, and so this basic winder was born. P.S. I just had the spool of wire standing straight up on the floor by my feet.