My first build - the 'body' paint pour...

Discussion in 'Other T-Types and Partscasters' started by bb_matt, May 24, 2019.

  1. bb_matt

    bb_matt Tele-Meister

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    Things are progressing on my first very partscaster build.

    It's not going to be pretty, it's not going to be super fancy, but it's going to be mine.

    So, for the record, the guitar *was* a $100 chinese clone, by way of J and D guitars (whoever the heck they are), purchased online from a German music store.

    I aim to collate everything I've done at some point, into a thread that may be titled "how not to do a partscaster", or, "how to ace a partscaster build" - hopefully, the latter.

    Enough waffle, the process so far ...

    orbital-sanding.jpg
    Sand the body down - the easy orbital sander part.

    sanded-rubbed.jpg
    All sanded, rubbed down with some alcohol (I may have drunk some myself), to get any dust residue off.

    primer-first-coat.jpg
    First coat of acrylic primer

    primer-fifth-coat.jpg
    Fifth coat - and this was a mistake. I put all these coats on and didn't sand in-between each coat.
    This meant a truck load of sanding when it dried and having to apply more coats as parts chipped off.
    It took a LOT longer than it would've done by taking it easy coat by coat - lesson learned.



    Paint pour part one.



    Paint pour part two.



    Paint pour part three.


    So, this is going to take a few weeks to dry. Then I need to check what the heck happened underneath on the bottom of the guitar, as I stupidly didn't tape up that side, not knowing just how damn messy paint pouring is! - it's going to take a LOT of sanding.

    For the other side, I'll probably go for a solid black - the trick is going to be to try to get this to blend somehow with the top on the sides of the guitar - I'll figure that out later.

    Onwards and upwards ...
     
  2. Deeve

    Deeve Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    Thx for the progress pics.
    And the reminder about careful between-coats sanding.
    In the end, OP's finish will be one of a kind.
    Peace - Deeve
     
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  3. bb_matt

    bb_matt Tele-Meister

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    Hopefully not the 'one of a kind' that makes people think "OMG, what did you do?" :D
     
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  4. Buckocaster51

    Buckocaster51 Super Moderator Staff Member Ad Free Member

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    That’s a lot of paint. :)
     
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  5. BjornSynneby

    BjornSynneby TDPRI Member

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    Hey! That is truly divine. Really inspiring! Looking great.
     
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  6. YALCaster

    YALCaster Tele-Meister

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    I just did something similar but I used resin!

    The whole guitar was $60 and the owner had it since the late 80s. Gigged the heck out of it as you can probably tell from the pickguard.

    01586DB1-45CA-4528-AC24-6075C6CAB6D4.jpeg
     
  7. nojazzhere

    nojazzhere Poster Extraordinaire

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    Reminiscent of the "bowling ball" finishes Fender did back when.....(seventies?) Very interesting, and I hope it turns out to your liking! ;)
     
  8. CHarg

    CHarg TDPRI Member

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    Thanks for posting this! Very cool!! Can't wait to see how it turns out!
     
  9. bb_matt

    bb_matt Tele-Meister

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    Thanks folks - it's drying much darker, which is good - it dried enough to get the tape off.
    I'm going to have to wait probably another week minimum - then I have to do the other side.

    top-paint-job-side.jpg
    I really love the two tone definition line here, but I'll have to save that concept for another paint job... possibly?
    The idea is to do the back entirely in black.

    top-paint-job-top.jpg

    I'm sort of happy with it - so, 40% will be covered with pickguard etc., but I'm not 100% happy with the bottom left - the screws I put in the bridge to prevent paint pouring into the holes left too much complication in the pattern - or at least, it doesn't really match with the rest.

    I'm not sure how to approach sanding this prior to applying either resin (a big, expensive, smelly job) or, more than likely, spray on urethane.

    It is actually very flat - just a little rough. If it's going to be sanded, it's going to have to be bone dry and will require a very very light touch.

    My hope was I could just apply resin or urethane and sand that, but it may be just a little too rough to allow a smooth coats of clear to settle flat before sanding.

    There's absolutely NO way I'm going to get a pro-finish here, but I do want a good shine and a surface that feels smooth enough - more importantly, one that can weather some bumps and bashes over the years.

    Lets face it, nobody is ever going to want this guitar (aside from parts), except me :D

    And yeah, the carpet is kinda covered in bits of paint, but it's screwed anyway - it's my 'man cave' area, which is basically an 8' x 10' wooden summerhouse where I get to chill out away from the wife and do 'man stuff', as she calls it :D
     
    Last edited: May 25, 2019
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  10. BjornSynneby

    BjornSynneby TDPRI Member

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    Looks great. How thick is the color coat? Acrylic? Really love the black/silver combination. If the coat is thick you should be able to level it down before applying varnish?
     
  11. bb_matt

    bb_matt Tele-Meister

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    It's quite thick - probably .02mm.

    I've just done the back in solid black and ... er, well, that turned out pretty badly at the moment.
    I did the work without the assistance of my wife, who does paint pours and ran out of black half way through.
    I had to call her to help me mix more, as it needs some special 'flow' mix.

    Then, when handling it, I dropped it on my workshop/office/summerhouse carpet (it's only a cheap hardwearing rug) and had to apply more paint.
    I'm watching it level out and hoping the hell it does - apparently it will find a level, assuming it doesn't dry too quick.
    Right now, I'm anticipating weeks of drying followed by a lot of sanding then probably another paint pour :(

    ... and a new rug for the summerhouse :D

    The front had been completely taped up, obviously, so that'll be ok.

    So, I think this technique has some very good potential, it's just learning:

    • How to obtain some better effects with the pour
    • Getting the mixture with the 'flow' additive just right so everything levels out perfectly. Gravity will level everything out - the front is pretty damn flat and will only need light sanding, mainly because the silver was *very* fluid.
    Only time will tell just how it works out when it comes to sanding and then applying urethane spray.

    I think I now have an idea for the pickguard too - copper with organic pattern engraving.
     
    Last edited: May 26, 2019
  12. BjornSynneby

    BjornSynneby TDPRI Member

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    Lets keep fingers crossed everything will work out well. Have you watched this clip?
     
  13. bb_matt

    bb_matt Tele-Meister

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    I've watched similar clips - that looks even messier in some ways and I don't have the space to do such a paint job.

    I'm now busy sanding the back, it's had three coats of acrylic painted on after excessive sanding of the paint pour which went wrong.
    I will *never* do a solid coat paint pour like this again without checking that the paint being used is very fluid - the pattern on the front is fine - that worked out flat enough that a light 800 grit sand will be enough. It worked out because of the fluidity of the paint. It levelled itself out amazingly well. But the back, disaster. I'm thinking another 3 coats of black with sanding between each should do it, but it's many many hours of work and with acrylic brush on, days between each coat and sand.

    I can't actually do anything other than this now - removing all the paint on the back and spraying will result in a black colour mismatch with the top.
    You live and learn - and as they say, "in for a penny, in for a pound" - I have to get this right and just slave away to get the best smooth coat I can muster.

    For the record, if that paint pour on the back had been smooth enough, all it would've taken was 800 grit sanding to get a very smooth matt finish, ready for coating = pretty damn quick.
     
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