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Discussion in 'Finely Finished' started by ndcaster, Feb 22, 2016.
The first three pocs are using rubio mono coat. The third one of those, the outside pic is after one coat and before i tealized it needed to be buffed into the wood.
The last two coats are wudtone. I cant tell any difference between the two products other than the colors. I paid 80$ for the wudtone and 16$ for the monocoat and still have enough for 2 to 3 more bodies.
I would suggest practicing on scrap. I also found that it was better to sand to 220 to get a flat surface and then come back and sand with 150 to open the wood more so the finish would soak in more.
I could be wrong about tjis and people with more experience can step in, but it seemed like the color was stronger that way.
Looks sharp sleazy, especially for a first attempt. I bet you're itching to play it! Not sure if it's the photo or the guitar but it looks like there is a slight amount of blotching in some spots. Not trying to be negative of your work so please don't take it that way. I point it out because I had that issue at first myself when first trying it. Took some trial and error to resolve it which I'd imagine to be unique to the chosen colorant material. I'd agree that the cheaper alternative to wudone looks to be a winner. I'll snap a couple shots of what I've got going on in a moment, I'm still a fan of milk paint mostly due to putting in the time to feel confident using it. For those checking in on this thread, the general finishes milk paint is not actually milk paint and acts completely differently. It's simply a fully opaque flat paint that they market as milk paint. Actual milk paint which is limestone based with pigment behaves more like an alinine dye that contains binder.
The lighting in my shop isn't conducive to great photos but you get the idea. This still needs to be level sanding and final coats of clear which I'll hopefully get to today. The body is made from some of my last remaining stock of circa 1890 reclaim pine from a local Sebago Maine barn. Going to be sad when I'm out of this stuff but I've got a lead on another local farm tearing down their barn so hopefully more in the works! I'll post some better photos when I get this one done.
Yes there is some blotching, especially af the top. I would say it is a combination of it being my first time applying the rubio, not realizing it needed to be worked in and that the top is 5 different pieces of wood. If you look in the bottom right corner you will see that the outside color didnt really take there as well as i would have liked. It js still in its infancy as far as my approach to it.
I will say that i will definitely use this again.
Anyone intersted in trying it i would suggest possibly using a hand buffer of sime kind to save the wear and tear on your arms. You will need a different sponge/pad for each color.
Another nice thing about it is you can mix the colors to get custom colors.
I was told by a friend who has used this product a lot that lacqyer wont go over it, but worked on some scrap i tested, so proceed with caution. But a little shellac between and you will be fine.
Still trying to figure out the correct sanding coarseness. On pine especially i think 220 is too fine and it wont penetrate the wood, leaving the colors less vibrant.
That being said it feels great to the touch. You can still feel the wood if you dont over buff it, if you do buff it aggresively, it still feels nice and smooth, just more of a waxy finish.
Five piece top? Was that a typo? Seems an odd choice of construction
Its a 1/4 inch cap and semi hollow. I bought it from a guy on ebay zpdibbs83. His quality to price ratio is pretty good. I dont see how he can sell bodies for 45-60 dollars. He is really easy to deal with and he also goes out of his way to solve any problems that come up. I have finished 5 bodies from him. I torched one with a kitchen torch then finished with walnut oil.
But yes, it is multiple pieces. Its pretty tough to see the lines unless you are really looking close.
I made this last year and since the body was pretty bland looking alder I decided to experiment with milk paint. I wanted to do something with layering multiple colors and sanding it back, and ended up with this sort of Danelectro meets Wandre paint job... definitely not for everyone, I kind of hated it when I finished it, but it has really grown on me.
I don't think I would ever do anything quite like this again, but one of the interesting things I learned is that white milk paint takes transtint dyes really nicely and produces vibrant colors. You could make some really nice custom colors for a solid color paint job with milk paint and water based dye.
HenryD in last years' TDPRI Build Challenge used General Finishes Milk Paint in Basil Green:
quick update on my end: I have two coats of white milk paint on the body, but I think the paint wasn't thinned enough. it sure went on smooth as silk, so I went with it. the texture is soft, and when I sand, the debris particles pill. it's not curing or drying like my other milk painted projects. as a workaround, I might try putting another coat on that's thinned down a lot, thinking the moisture will help to cure the layers underneath.
That's odd, I have mixed it up pretty thick because I needed heavy coats since I was planning to sand it heavily, but I never had issues with the paint failing to harden. Was there any sealer on the body or was it just bare wood? I have not had it happen, but I have read that real milk paint can have problems when applied to any surface other than bare wood or dry milk paint, if there was a sanding sealer on the body it might be causing issues.
bare wood. it's dry but cake-like. I sanded a lot of it off, and the bottom layer is pretty hard. I'll try the thin wet coat this weekend. my basement flooded a bit, so I've been attending to that.
One other possibility, is it an old container? One you open a bag of the powder it supposedly has a limited shelf life, depending on how much moisture it is exposed to. Not sure exactly what happens when it goes bad, but that just occurred to me. If it is new paint, then maybe you did just mix it too thick. Good luck!
nope, brand new. it cakes up sandpaper. the great thing about this stuff however is how forgiving it is, and I'm not in any hurry, really. the matte finish (chalk white) is a really good canvas for thinned amber shellac.
Where can one purchase this limestone based milk paint? I can't seem to find any online. BTW, thank you for sharing your wisdom with us! I'm excited to try this method.
Here in Maine it's stocked by artists and Craftsman in Portland. I know they have a website/store as well. I believe you can purchase it straight from the company who makes it as well. The brand is "old fashioned milk paint". Don't waste your money with the bonding agent they also sell. It's not needed if you've taken the proper surface preparation steps. As with anything there's a learning curve so test on scrap.
Can someone tell me how to get this finish?
Drag the guitar's body on pavement, behind a bicycle, till required relicing is achieved