Maton G240 Inspired Tele Rip Off

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by Davecam48, Jan 1, 2012.

  1. Davecam48

    Davecam48 Friend of Leo's Ad Free Member

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    Maton G240 copy

    From memory I seem to recall it was a combination of stained top and painted back or something, but some caustic paint stripper seemed to get it off. I think it was either green or a yucky red, can't be sure now after about 50 years.
     
  2. Davecam48

    Davecam48 Friend of Leo's Ad Free Member

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    Maton G240 copy

    So on to the neck (No. 2)

    Using blush mahogany (which is what the guy called it but to me it looks and smell like Queensland maple just a bit darker in colour. Using a standard Tele neck template (thanks Terry) with my own headstock did all the usual stuff and chopped one out 1" thick. This is my first non-scarfed neck and probably my last. All my previous necks have been scarfed @13degrees for strength and appearance, and the fact that I don't like to drill holes in the head for string trees that might create a weakness down the track.
    Had some red gum pieces the right length for a fret board so cut and milled a piece about 1/2" thick and radiused it down to 1/4" at the sides.
    I am using my relatively new multi jig that will radius,level plane a FB, cut a truss slot, and cut the fret slots, all with the fret board mounted once in the same place same time. I am working on a mod which will allow it to also carve the back of the neck, and also make a coffee at the same time!
    When that works I'll just move into the shed.:lol: Some of these pix may be out of sequence but you'll get it.
     

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  3. Davecam48

    Davecam48 Friend of Leo's Ad Free Member

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    Just a bit about the multi jig. MOST important before you start, the board must be stuck down with the centres perfectly aligned, that is a given.
    Before slotting a reference line is made on a bit of masking tape across the main block using a square. I make a new reference line each time, probably not necessary but as the Irish say "To be sure to be sure!" This must be at right angles to your centre line on the main block. An added feature of this type of slotting set up is that it will do fanned frets just by marking the tops and bottoms of the scales required on the board and lining them up with the adjustable saw arm and proceeding in the usual way. The way I have this made allows me to make a slot to the correct depth first time on any FB radius as long as you have the depth adjustment on the fret saw set correctly of course. A good tip....if you make a multi jig like this put some rough sandpaper on the pivot of the adjustable angle saw holder, this will fix it into position.

    A word about these switchable magnets............get some (at least two) they are so usefull and make swapping jigs and fences etc so fast and they hold down so tight they are practically unmovable. I bought a full fence kit with them and now hardly use the fences that came with the magnets but use the jigs I made. Saves having all those clamps getting in the way.
     

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  4. Davecam48

    Davecam48 Friend of Leo's Ad Free Member

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    Maton G240 copy

     

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  5. CapnCrunch

    CapnCrunch Friend of Leo's

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    I don't know. I think that a solid body, or a thinline with a solid center section, would have more sustain, unless you are standing right in front of your amp.
     
  6. njg12171

    njg12171 Tele-Meister

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    The Maton kinda has a Burns vibe to it, watching this build, I'm going to have to try an all acoustic tele in the near future, after the archtop and Strat are done of course....(Or at least ready to spray)
     
  7. crazydave911

    crazydave911 Poster Extraordinaire

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    I think he means sustainable as in ecology, e.g, renewable resources :D
     
  8. Davecam48

    Davecam48 Friend of Leo's Ad Free Member

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    To my way of thinking this is a thinline with a solid centre section! The main reason for this method of construction is that it can be done using smaller pieces of timber, it is generally way more rigid than a convential acoustic type construction, and stronger, and is harder to do, and is more challenging and more fun and I like it!;) Talking of sustain and tone, sustain is a luck of the draw thing and when you build a guitar or violin or whatever you never know if it will sustain or not until you string 'er up. I have never heard of anyone who can design a guitar to have "super sustain" but there are people who through years of experience know what works for them in that department. I am not one of those! Anyway do you really want to pluck a note that will ring for 30 secs or a minute? There are pedals for that if that's what you need.

    Tone is another beast in pure acoustics but in electric guitars tone is 95% pickups and 5% underpants and the remaining 25% is in the method.:twisted:

    This build will have twin mini humbuckers switched 3 ways (HB, single and parallel ) and will be mixed via a "blend pot" so giving a virtually infinite number of "tones" but betcha it will be played mostly on full bridge or full frontal (that takes me back!:lol:)

    Hi ........... Not so Crazy
     
  9. Davecam48

    Davecam48 Friend of Leo's Ad Free Member

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    Maton G240 Copy

    I was able to get a small sheet of black ABS plastic locally and it has a nice mottled effect on the face side which I thought would make nice looking fittings as well a a different binding. I usually have white 1mm binding on my guitars as I have ample supplies of it in sheet form (old Government signs) and just cut it to height as required, but wanted to do a different bind on this one. The plan was a B W B triple bind but after doing the back that way decided it took too long so did the top with a single black mottled face outwards. THE BWB looks great against the Tassie Oak back but may have detracted from the nice Rosewood top, well that's what I'm telling myself.
    The top face of the headstock is veneered with the same ABS and looks good but was not easy to get there. Pix shows high compression of a spindle sander to pressure it into the rounded up transition to the nut.
     

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  10. Davecam48

    Davecam48 Friend of Leo's Ad Free Member

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    Here's a mock up of the beast with the pickup covers and other stuff in place after the top bind was done
     

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  11. Davecam48

    Davecam48 Friend of Leo's Ad Free Member

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    Here's a couple of pix showing the interior through the F-hole. A lot tidier than my usual.
     

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  12. Davecam48

    Davecam48 Friend of Leo's Ad Free Member

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    Mounted the pots and switches on the control plate and used a computer serial plug and socket to connect to the twin mini humbuckers this make it a lot easier to make mods to the controls which had to be done a few times already. The blend pot was too high a value and did not mix rather it turned from one to another with poor signal strength in the middle, so I am down to 10K at the moment but might try a bit smaller yet if I can find a linear 5k it would be nice I think.
     

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  13. bajaasdad

    bajaasdad Tele-Meister

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    I meant 'sustainable' in the not wasting trees kinda sense. Tt isn't necesarily how I WOULD like to build a guitar... but it is the most economical and perhaps wisest for the rainforests...
     
  14. Davecam48

    Davecam48 Friend of Leo's Ad Free Member

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    So............we've got the wiring all finished and the mini h-buckers all mounted in their home made covers and the bridge mounted. The binding has been finished and some grain filling done and some Tru Oil and Armorall splashed around and rubbed up to a bit of a shine, and the tuners mounted.
     

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  15. Davecam48

    Davecam48 Friend of Leo's Ad Free Member

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    Basically it's all finished apart from doing a set up and tweeking the nut a bit and finding or making a couple of string trees which I don't like to use.

    I made the nut from bone which I got from the butcher which was intended to be chewed on by a lion or tiger or at least a German Shepherd but forgot to take pix of that but we all remember the smell and how to do it.

    I really like how the Tassie Oak comes up with the red grain and the Tru Oil. It looks pretty good for "construction timber" and I will use it again, especially if it will bend, haven't tried that yet, sooooo if someone out there has, please let me know how it goes.
     

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  16. Davecam48

    Davecam48 Friend of Leo's Ad Free Member

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    Some pix.
     

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  17. Davecam48

    Davecam48 Friend of Leo's Ad Free Member

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    Some more pix.
     

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  18. crazydave911

    crazydave911 Poster Extraordinaire

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    Now that is one sweet piece of kit mate! :D. FWIW, I think the Aussie woods set it apart. Had that been made here, chances are it would have ended up the same old tired ash/alder (maple cap) maple neck...........BORING!. With all the diversity of woods native to the U.S., it's depressing at times how few are chosen :(. Really cool design Dave ;)
     
  19. Davecam48

    Davecam48 Friend of Leo's Ad Free Member

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    Thanks Not so Crazy Dave! I never seem to be able to find any "figured " wood here, I'd love to get a supply of that highly figured maple you blokes seem to have at your fingertips and the good "birds eye" Some Aussie timber especially the desert growing stuff can be beautiful when cut but it can be very brittle and hard to work.
     
  20. flatfive

    flatfive Friend of Leo's

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    Wow, Dave, beautiful guitar, and so many techniques displayed
    that it will take many reads to digest!

    I'm amazed you could do all that work in less than 72 hours --
    the 2012 build challenge should be a breeze for you. :lol:

    One immediate question: did you make the kerfed wood around
    the perimeter of the body? In other words, did you make *many*
    saw cuts to a solid piece of wood?

    It sure would be nice to see and hear your guitar in a video.

    Great work, man.
     
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