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Loose Acoustic Bridge

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by Ira7, Jun 14, 2018.

  1. Ira7

    Ira7 Poster Extraordinaire

    Age:
    61
    Jan 8, 2008
    Coral Springs, FL
    Very aggravating.

    My Ibanez Talman bridge is lifting up. Just noticed it yesterday after it sat in its case for a few weeks. This is my synth equipped guitar.

    There appear to be two dowels which connect bridge and body, and you can see the gap in these two photos.

    What to do? Remove strings and glue it down? What kind of glue? Wood glue?

    Note in the third picture, there’s a bubbling of the overcoat, all around the sides and front of the bridge, but not at the rear.

    04D99EB6-2D1A-440D-9C7F-0851C0FB78D0.jpeg D4856A4A-D445-48C1-A142-3A3EBC5FA734.jpeg AC917272-00A1-43AB-9AA8-8A7DD4353E4F.jpeg
     

  2. Ira7

    Ira7 Poster Extraordinaire

    Age:
    61
    Jan 8, 2008
    Coral Springs, FL
    Oh, yeah.

    The entire thing easily popped off. B3E3888D-43A4-4D2C-9441-F825A2A35DE1.jpeg
     

  3. Ira7

    Ira7 Poster Extraordinaire

    Age:
    61
    Jan 8, 2008
    Coral Springs, FL
    Gee:

    Look what I just found in one of Ira’s Disorganized Drawers of Hardware Crap!

    01AEF84C-6B27-4046-BDE1-46D3784A03B5.jpeg
     

  4. john_cribbin

    john_cribbin Tele-Holic

    988
    Nov 26, 2014
    London
    Personally I'd avoid epoxy like the plague for that repair.

    It may be that thick that the bridge wont lie flat against the body and if it ever needs to come off, half the top may come with it.

    I'd use a water based wood glue and apply a bit of weight to the bridge to hold it down. OK best solution would be a clamp holding it inside and out.

    Those dowels should hold it in place nicely once the glue has set.
     
    voodoostation likes this.

  5. Ira7

    Ira7 Poster Extraordinaire

    Age:
    61
    Jan 8, 2008
    Coral Springs, FL
    The dowels don't do anything but position it. Loose fitting. Hell, even the string pegs hold it on tighter.

    I'll just apply the epoxy thin, and there's no reason I would want to remove the bridge in the future. If that's the case, the guitar goes in the garbage.

    It was 200 bucks. Not exactly a Taylor.
     

  6. trev333

    trev333 Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

    I've repaired a few lifting bridges on acoustics.. I flood it with Titebond, working it right in with something thin like an old envelope edge or blade and clamp it down.. seems to work fine...

    wipe up the squeeze out with a damp cloth.... and leave it for a good while before putting string tension back on it...

    I haven't had any come back....

    bridge glue down.jpg
     
    PhredE and Tonetele like this.

  7. Slowpoke

    Slowpoke Tele-Holic

    Age:
    80
    811
    Dec 3, 2011
    Mandurah. West Australia
    Hi Ira, I've re-stuck a few bridges on acoustic guitars with success.
    Firstly using a 40grit sandpaper remove the old glue from the bridge. Then being very careful use a masking tape to cover the guitar body outside the bridge area and then using the 40grit sandpaper remove any old glue from the body. Now for the glue I always use that white wood glue (PCV). but first cut a couple of pieces of 1' square wood to use as props to jam inside the guitar under the bridge area then apply the glue thinly to the guitar body and the bridge and leave for around 5 minutes. Then place the bridge onto the body and inserting the dowels into their holes. Now put a piece of old towel or similar over the bridge and place a heavy load on the bridge to hold it down until you can see the glue squeezing out from under the bridge all the way around the base of the bridge. I have used two house bricks as the weight. You'll need to lift the edges of the towel before the glue sets and with a flat head screwdriver wrapped in a cloth clean up the glue. Now leave it for at least 48 hours then you can remove the wooden props inside the guitar then re-string re-tune and carry on entertaining folk.. S
     
    PhredE likes this.

  8. Tonetele

    Tonetele Friend of Leo's

    Jun 2, 2009
    South Australia
    @Slowpoke is correct in the procedures need.
    Also an epoxy type fix will make it un0fixable in the future.
    I'd go for removal, regluing and clamping ( a clamp).
    house bricks may accidentally scratch the top..
     

  9. Slowpoke

    Slowpoke Tele-Holic

    Age:
    80
    811
    Dec 3, 2011
    Mandurah. West Australia
    Hi Tonetele, the piece of towel should be big enough to keep the house bricks from scratching the guitar. I used house bricks on my old Eko but then I made up a clamp that does the job perfectly. But not everybody has a collection of clamps they can use. I cut and welded up two clamps to go into the soundhole and reach the bridge area and then to screw down on top of a piece of wood placed on top the bridge to spread the load. Trev333 got a nice big clamp that is perfect for the job.. S
     
    trev333 likes this.

  10. trev333

    trev333 Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

    Yeah it's served me well that big old sliding clamp....

    sometimes I can get it lined up through the sound hole....

    seen here using the hostage tied to the chair gravity lever method....:lol:

    acoustic repair 4.jpg
     

  11. tigger

    tigger Tele-Meister

    I wouldn't use epoxy. I've done this before with titebond but I'd now use hide glue since it's easier to position properly. Make sure you have a large enough clamp, clean/sand both sides for perfect fit.
     
    PhredE likes this.

  12. Ira7

    Ira7 Poster Extraordinaire

    Age:
    61
    Jan 8, 2008
    Coral Springs, FL
    I’m not gonna buy a specialized clamp for this. That’s just not an option.

    I appreciate the advice, but I really don't want to over-engineer this.
     

  13. Ira7

    Ira7 Poster Extraordinaire

    Age:
    61
    Jan 8, 2008
    Coral Springs, FL
    I have Titebond, who doesn't, but how can that be better than epoxy? I'm not going to spread it to the edge anyway where it would bleed out.
     

  14. ale.istotle

    ale.istotle TDPRI Member

    54
    Mar 22, 2016
    Pennsylvania
    Epoxy is not reversible. With titebond you can soften it with heat and try again if needed. Epoxy is one try and done.
     

  15. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Doctor of Teleocity Silver Supporter

    Mar 30, 2003
    Ontario County
    Probably the reason why this bridge lifted is the mfg. didn't bother to remove the finish under the bridge. That involves time and money. The proper way to correctly make this repair is to remove the finish and glue on the body and the bridge, exposing fresh wood on both mating parts. A wood to wood joint requires an adhesive that is for porous materials IE...Hide or Yellow glue. A clamp is necessary to make the bond. That's the way this repair is properly done. Failure to do it that way will no doubt result in doing it again sooner rather than later.


    Frank Ford is the expert on Acoustics.

    http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Luthier/Technique/Guitar/Bridges/ReglueBr/regluebr1.html
     
    Last edited: Jun 14, 2018
    Muzikp, PhredE, Tonetele and 2 others like this.

  16. tigger

    tigger Tele-Meister

    The issue with epoxy is that it leaves a layer of glue between the two woods. If you squeeze it so much the layer of glue isn't there, the joint won't be as strong. I would only use epoxy if the fit was very poor. Hide glue is easier to position, easy to clean up, pulls the woods together while drying, easy to fix if a problem appears later..
     
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  17. RogerC

    RogerC Poster Extraordinaire Vendor Member

    Mar 30, 2011
    Oklamerica
    ^This
     
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  18. Barncaster

    Barncaster Doctor of Teleocity

    Even though it’s an inexpensive guitar, fix it correctly and it’s another $200 you don’t have to spend.
     
    Muzikp, Alamo and Pete Baker like this.

  19. schmee

    schmee Tele-Afflicted

    Jun 2, 2003
    northwest
    Many use Titebond. On that I might use thick Iso glue from the hobby shop. But you wont likely get it back apart.
     

  20. Pete Baker

    Pete Baker Tele-Meister

    Age:
    47
    186
    Aug 16, 2006
    Maryland
    I fixed one of those for a friend last winter. Took my time and removed all of the finish from under the bridge (the reason it failed in the first place), and got all of the old glue and finish off of the bottom of the bridge. I used Titebond and this clamp that I got from Amazon. You could probably make a similar clamp for a few dollars. The bridge is holding up fine after six months and 4-5 four hour gigs every week. You may have to cut a slightly taller saddle since the finish that was remover was pretty thick. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004ECI56Q/?tag=tdpri-20
     
    Barncaster likes this.

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