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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by guitarbuilder, Aug 2, 2017.
Awesome tutorial -thank you!
Thanks, Marty! This is really helpful. Maybe I should be, but I'm no longer afraid of tackling a neck. I'm kind of looking forward to it. Would there be any disadvantage to doing a couple of practice necks out of pine before moving up to maple?
I have tool called "sureform" it's a frame with a replaceable "mesh blade". I think it should work as a poor man's farrier rasp, it can take off wood in a hurry.
Those are new drawings... It was easier to make new ones than to try and find the old ones....
No, it makes sense to practice but be aware that pine will probably be easier to work than a denser hardwood.
If the sureform tool stays together, it'll work. My cutter/grater/ blade part always fell off when I tried it a few times.
Back to the dots, it looks like the dots are standing slightly proud of the surface of the fretboard. I suppose with the curvature it the fret board the will by definition. I assume you will sand them during the finish stage?
They are level now, as I used a file and scraper on them, but were proud when I glued them in. I've tried to cut it too close a few times and the dots were under the plane of the fretboard. Next step is to sand the fretboard down some with the radius beam.
Great thread Marty. This reminds me of the old threads around here. Solid info & techniques.
Sanding....ugh.... anyway. I start with the belt sander sanding block on the neck shaft. That is 50 grit. It is pretty aggressive but does the job. Then I go over the neck with 80 grit. I use ROSS spindles in the transitions and inside curves. I attach some 80 grit sticky back abrasive paper on a flat block and block sand the neck parts. I like to hold the neck vertical and while rotating it with my left hand, I sand up and down with my right. Then I flip it up and down and do the other end. I keep doing this until it's done.
I put some sticky back 80 grit on the radius beam. I can't say enough good things about these aluminum radius beams. They are really worth it if you can afford them.
Then I take a pencil and make some hash marks on the fretboard surface. This lets me know where the high spots are. The more accurate the fretboard radius jig is the less work you'll have to do here. 80 grit reduces the time it takes to do this task too.
I mount the radius beam to the workbench with a couple small clamps and move the neck on top of it. I think I like this better than moving the beam on the neck. After a couple of minutes of back and forth.
After a couple more minutes. I like to hit the fretboard edge with a couple of strokes to ease the edge. It makes it comfy and you don't draw blood there from a razor sharp edge.
I'm done with 80 grit on the shaft, fretboard surface, heel, and peghead. It feels really nice now.
What are the angles of these two secondary facet lines? Thanks.
Here are the angles. The lines are just tangent to the curve and can vary a little. I just drew and rotated to try and trim off equal amounts of the points of the primary facets. The later sanding and scraping will equalize them.
View attachment 446224
Fantastic tutorial. Thanks!
Details like how you hold the neck while sanding... that stuff is so good. Different for everyone perhaps, but still...
Great tutorial, thanks. Just in time for my first neck carve