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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by guitarbuilder, Aug 2, 2017.
It came out nice and clean.
I have a warmoth vintage truss rod but figured I'd show how to make one. You aren't saving much money when you buy the rod, washer, and truss rod nut. The warmoth rod is about 10 dollars plus shipping. If you make one , you still have to make an anchor and do some cutting and threading.
First the anchor. I saw Jack Wells do this in his thread one piece neck thread and I adapted the process accordingly.
I previously drilled the hole deep enough on the drill press with a drill press vise holding it.
Then I cut a piece of 3/8" long of the drilled end off.
I cut it with a hacksaw on the drill press.
Then I tapped the anchor with 10-32 threads and started to make some shallow saw kerfs on it. Next I stuck a larger triangular file in the kerfs and filed some barbs in there. Brass is easier than steel. If I remember correctly Jack used a countersink on his anchor to create some points more easily and uniformly. I think this irregular one will do just fine...LOL.
A metal working vise would be nice to have for stuff like this.
I then used a 10-32 die on a piece of 3/16" lowes steel rod. I screwed on the anchor and peened it at the end of the rod. I tried the fit. It fits.
So I decided in the middle of the night that I should redo the anchor as I missed the step about drilling into it with a wider drill bit to make a sharp outer edge. I recalled that step after it was assembled. I took the previously assembled rod apart and made a new anchor for it this morning.
It got cut, drilled, and tapped again.
The filing task is easier now with the sharp outer edge. That produces better looking barbs.
I attached it to the rod end.
Then it is a matter of cutting to length and tapping the other end with the same 10-32 threads. The pre purchased ( Allparts I think) truss rod nut fits nicely.
Then it kind of slides into place with a little hammering and clamping to follow the curve. A 100 dollar neck is a bargain. You'll find that out if you make one of these. I'll need to shorten that nut up by about 1/16" it appears.
Really nice rod there , that is how to do it !
At 10 dollars an hour, it's now a 35 dollar truss rod. Not worth it.....
It was worth it , don't forget you are teaching others .
Being from Canada , i can only get rods by order so i get shipping and freetrade taxes added to the cost . So i never bought any . So when i need one i make many at once and save time .
In Canada its a struggle to get everything and anything else.
I totally get that...and if I had a decent metalworking vise and the proper sized drill bits for taps, the time would be cut in half...LOL.
I know that doing things yourself isn't always cost effective.... but I love that you decided to make your own truss rod. For my first build my teacher made me build my own neck and truss rod and it felt very rewarding when the TR actually worked(and still works 4 years later). It gave me a lot of confidence for future builds.
Thanks again for showing the varying aspects of a neck build, I always enjoy a refresher.
I am not equipped in vises , i use a piece of hard wood then secure it to the vise then drill a 3/8 hole in it , that centers everything then i insert the 3/8 rod in the drill hole and hold in from turning with a visegrip , then i start with the 3/8 bit again that help centering the following bit and also this part i cut off to make the anchor out of it, and i really recommend using pure lard shortening as a cutting oil . One hole per nut/anchor .
This is the best way i found with what i have and also its really quick .
I traced and cut the curve into the filler strip on the bandsaw. Then I sanded the curve down to the line and trimmed it to length. I glued and clamped it with some yellow glue. I gave the rod and underside of the skunk stripe a swipe of wax for good measure too.
The 3/8 walnut plug required a purchase of a walnut dowel or turning one down. The trip to buy a dowel would take about 2 hours. Turning one about 10 minutes. I used some scrap I had here.
After the plug and skunk stripe were glued in, I leveled them out.
Very cool - thank you for all the details
I sorta figured you would drill the hole before doing the scoop. Interested in that process.
Thanks for watching@
Ideally that back surface in post 217 should be perpendicular to the 3 degree ramp jig but it worked out OK. I would imagine the tear out from drilling the hole after the transition is cut in there would be an eyesore.