Jag build!

Discussion in 'Other T-Types and Partscasters' started by Matthias, Mar 2, 2019.

  1. Matthias

    Matthias Tele-Afflicted

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    I thought I’d share progress on my Jag parts build!

    Spec so far is a lovely flamed 9.5” radius Classic Player neck with Kluson single line tuners and a PV string tree for a pretty old school look.

    The mute is a Fender, as is the trem and Mustang bridge, for which I added aluminium shims to compensate for the flatter radius. I have the stock trem from my JM on here at the mo, but might take the AVRI trem off that and put it on this. Knobs are some leftover from a Jazz Bass.

    The plates are Axesrus chromed steel jobs and the pickguard is a Musiclily parchment, which to me is a better nitrate guard colour than mint.

    The insides will be vintage-spec’d and multicolour cloth-wired. I have a set of Pure Vintage 65s ready to go in. Currently working out if I can improve on the grounding and shielding scheme. I got the same tone caps as Fender use but did some research and bought the same parts from a general electronics supplier so saved about £10 in total!

    I got a Squier body as they’re pretty good, but mine has a sloppy neck route with a 2mm Broadcaster-style lip and the general routing is a bit off 60s spec so a good pickguard/mute/bridge alignment isn’t possible without serious modification. So, I’ll pass this on and I’ve ordered a 2-piece alder vintage spec body that’s going to get sprayed in Nitro.

    Currently strung up from checking alignment etc. I’m in love with the colour scheme... It’s basically a ‘62 Strat look on a Jag, which looks unusual but authentic at the same time. I look forward to posting updates! :D
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  2. Ronkirn

    Ronkirn Doctor of Teleocity Vendor Member

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    Brilliant! I've always loved the Jaguar.... your's is looking superb

    rk
     
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  3. Matthias

    Matthias Tele-Afflicted

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    Thanks Ron. I’m hoping it turns out well. Certainly seemed worth getting a decent body for it... which the current Squier one would have been if the cavities were closer to spec.
     
  4. Ronkirn

    Ronkirn Doctor of Teleocity Vendor Member

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    They do that on purpose... it's just part of the deal.... :rolleyes: don't sweat it.. just remove the excess carefully and rock on..

    r
     
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  5. Matthias

    Matthias Tele-Afflicted

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    I would if it wasn’t for the neck pocket (and therefore all the cavities) being routed a couple of mm to the left, leading to the big lip. If it was a Tele, I’d roll with it and celebrate my vintage accurate Broadcaster body :D
     
  6. Matthias

    Matthias Tele-Afflicted

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    The better body arrived. A lovely piece of alder (well, two lovely pieces). I’ve done a hardware test, and in general everything fits great! The thimbles I have are a bit loose, one more than the other. That’s fine — I can tape those and it might be the modern thimbles rather than the body. The only other issues is that the diameter of the mute hole is about 0.2mm too narrow for the AVRI slug that I have. My inclination is to find something cylindrical that’s a hair smaller, wrap it in sand paper and sand the inside of the hole a little. No need to redrill, surely?

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  7. mistermikev

    mistermikev Tele-Holic

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    solid looking build.
     
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  8. Matthias

    Matthias Tele-Afflicted

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    Just weighed the body. Bang on 4lb before a nitro finish. The (finished) basswood body is 5.2lb :eek:

    The neck is about 1lb with all hardware. I reckon this might end up on the light side for a Jag.
     
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  9. Matthias

    Matthias Tele-Afflicted

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    After some research, my bridge thimbles are definitely smaller than US spec. Might get some proper AVRI ones. So the holes have actually been drilled a little on the tight side, which is the better way round.

    It also looks like a non-tapered, 1/2” hand reamer would be the best tool to finish off the mute slug hole. I know to both go in and come out clockwise with those, but would I use a straight or fluted one on wood for the best finish? Or as the slug is designed to move up and down, should I just sand it?
     
  10. Matthias

    Matthias Tele-Afflicted

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    Oh, I think this has been moved to the wrong forum... It’s still a build in progress. Not even started on the many joys of Jag wiring. I wondered why no woodworkers had bitten yet on my last question :D
     
  11. 24 track

    24 track Doctor of Teleocity Silver Supporter

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    Jags are my all time favourite , hands down ,I've owned2 early 60's jags and between that and letting my 65 BF super and my 60's BF bassman 50 ,I regret it it to this day , nice work and a n excellant project ( now only if they came in lefty in the 60's .........sigh!)


    my brother playing mine inj 70'

    K2.jpg
     
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  12. Matthias

    Matthias Tele-Afflicted

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    So, I used various tubular objects and some 40 and 80 grit sandpaper to carefully enlarge the mute hole. Took two hours. It now goes in fine and it’s still just about circular! A tip for anyone trying this is to test fit the plunger upside down so you can use a screwdriver to pry it out again! The body is a copy of a 66 down to the router marks... you can see in the pic that the plunger sits well below the body. This is because although the AVRI springs have the same relative tension, they’re about 10-11mm shorter than the vintage springs! I would be interested to see exactly how deep the AVRIs are drilled.

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    I also cleaned up the cavities and wiring channels, which to be fair we’re already very clean already. However, I like them to be tidy on the inside!

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    Ready to get sent off to get painted, I reckon. Unless, that is, there are any screw holes that would be good to drill before finishing... The jag has so many... But I have always been under the impression it’s best to paint with as few holes as possible, and just drill very carefully once done.
     
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2019 at 11:08 AM
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