I,m such a dummy.....

Discussion in 'Tele-Technical' started by Wizard1962, Jan 16, 2019.

  1. Wizard1962

    Wizard1962 TDPRI Member

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    I,m building a partscaster, thought I had checked and rechecked all measurements. Made sure bridge and neck lined up to center. Checked pickup routing. Neck pocket was tight etc.
    So I sanded the mahogany body to 600 grit. Rubbed in 5 coats of tung oil. Man this tele was looking good. :D
    I installed the bridge, wired up everything, set the neck in the pocket, noticed the neck screws seemed alittle short....checked and standard #8 at 1 3/4 long.......
    That's when it freaking hit me. I never measured the depth of the neck pocket....stupid stupid stupid....
    It's only 1/2" deep.......
    Now trying to figure out what to do. I dont have a router, or know anyone that does.
    I have the saddles adjusted all the way up, but it barely plays with no buzzing.

    Big dummy needs help guys
    Thanks
     
  2. teletimetx

    teletimetx Poster Extraordinaire

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    Probably going to need some pictures. How thick is the body? What happened when you checked to find out that the neck pocket looked like a good fit? Pictures would really help.
     
  3. blowtorch

    blowtorch Telefied Ad Free Member

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    Here,s for starters'
    It,s an apostrophe' and not a comma
     
  4. tessting1two

    tessting1two Tele-Meister

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    You're only off by 1/8" so don't beat yourself up too badly and keep in mind you may not need to remove the entire 1/8" to get the saddles where you want them. Depending on the tools you have at your disposal you can fix this a few different ways.
    1. The most accurate way would of course be to get a router and neck pocket template or an end mill with a cutter that can cut the proper corner radius.
    2. If you have a band saw and/or a disc sander, you can fabricate a sanding block that is the same size as the neck pocket including the corner radius, apply some stick-it sandpaper and methodically sand down the pocket, checking your work often so the pocket remains flat/level.
    3. If you can't fabricate a block you can just sand the heel of the neck. This requires improvising a fixture to hold the neck so the heel stays level during sanding. The same rule applies about going slowly and checking your work often so the surface remains perfectly flat.
     
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  5. tessting1two

    tessting1two Tele-Meister

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    Another thing to consider: a thicker bridge plate. If you're using a Fender bridge that's .050-.055" thick, switching to a Rutters bridge that's .10 thick raises the bridge by almost 1/16".

    http://ruttersguitars.com/Hot_Rod_Parts.html
     
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  6. Wizard1962

    Wizard1962 TDPRI Member

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    I do have a low angle block plane. I could use it to slowly take off material from the neck heel.

    Think that would work ?
     
  7. tessting1two

    tessting1two Tele-Meister

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    That wouldn't work. The blade of the plane isn't at the very front of the tool so it wouldn't reach the inside of the pocket and it wouldn't get the corners.
     
  8. Wizard1962

    Wizard1962 TDPRI Member

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    What if I used the block plane to take the wood off the neck itself ?
     
  9. tessting1two

    tessting1two Tele-Meister

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    If you're removing material from the neck then you want a flat sanding block. It's the safest way to ensure the surface stays level and you don't remove too much material. Slow and steady wins the race.

    Draw a line in pencil around all three sides of the neck heel 1/16" below the edge and sand slowly with very light pressure until you reach the mark. Then test fit everything again. If you're happy then you can sand out the scratches up to 400 grit.
     
  10. boris bubbanov

    boris bubbanov Telefied Ad Free Member

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    Hey, this kind of thing happened to all of us and this is when we actually learned something.

    Sounds like the easiest, best thing to do since you have no router, is to sand off a little of the thickness of the heel, but don't go all the way. Maybe leave the heel a little proud and treat the guitar more like an ASAT Classic or a Squier Affinity Special. While more and more of the "modern" Telecasters have heels tucked down towards the plane of the body, you need not slavishly follow that. Instead, go towards the more Broadcaster template and make the guitar work like that. You can also use a Squier type, skinnier neck plate if you can resist the impulse to overtighten and to distort that thin neckplate. Or you could sand away a 1/16ths of the body thickness on the back/exterior of the body. You control the means of the finishing and therefore you can revise the shapes of things and still get the body and neck finishes you have set out for.
     
  11. 24 track

    24 track Doctor of Teleocity Silver Supporter

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    why not take the guitar down to the local High school and talk to the shop teacher , he may let you use the shop tools to fix this and let a few students watch your project as a learning opportunity.

    it wasnt a mistake unless you took out too much matterial , this can be fixed
     
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  12. NothingGoatboat

    NothingGoatboat Tele-Meister

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    Do High schools still have woodshop? I didn't, and have noticed it's almost gone from every school. A real bummer. Anyways, Wizard, don't feel bad. I cut off most the headstock of a Tele by accident, and was really angry for a good week. The small error you made is easily fixed by a little (careful) sanding. Good luck!
     
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  13. Wizard1962

    Wizard1962 TDPRI Member

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    Great big " Thank you " to everyone for the great advice and wisdom. Looks like a few options to fix this problem.
     
  14. boris bubbanov

    boris bubbanov Telefied Ad Free Member

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    If this is a really soft, minimal finish, this could work.

    I would not recommend it to guys who had a finish in poly, because I would expect very likely the finish would be chipped or at least marred. And I would make some kind of provision to play with or learn the ins and outs of this High School piece of equipment, on test pieces.
     
  15. 24 track

    24 track Doctor of Teleocity Silver Supporter

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    usually the teacher is there to guide through this type of demo and would have access to the right tools available, we had a shop teacher who would have loved that opportunity He usued to make really cool stuff on hs own time to show us
     
  16. tessting1two

    tessting1two Tele-Meister

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    Sadly, in this day and age here in the USA, I would be very surprised if a teacher would risk their job to let someone walk in off the street and use their power tools. It's an insurance/liability nightmare.
     
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  17. boris bubbanov

    boris bubbanov Telefied Ad Free Member

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    I hear you. Based on what I know talking to teachers, they have to have an alibi that they're someplace else and you go in and do the dirty deed and get out fast so they have deniability. And that's in the country. In bigger towns or in California, forget about it.
     
  18. strat56

    strat56 Tele-Holic

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    You could buy a router and bit and fix it in minutes. What's you time worth to you? Can you rent a router from Home Depot and just buy the bit?
     
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  19. teleplayr

    teleplayr Tele-Holic

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    Check with a local luthier, I'm sure they'll have a template and it shouldn't cost that much to have it done.
     
  20. Wizard1962

    Wizard1962 TDPRI Member

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    No luthiers in my town.
    Prob 2 1/2 hours drive to closest one.
     
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