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Discussion in 'Finely Finished' started by Doth, Mar 2, 2011.
I'll work out a way to share them publicly, in case anyone else wants to use them.
For now, here is a jpeg and a pdf of what I have done.
Hey mate. Is that possible to have a sign of the word "Steadybeat"?
Sure. Give me a few days or so though. They take a few hours to do.
What printing resolution is best for laser printing the decals? Or does the resolution matter much?
I'm just now trying to figure out the best way to make a file for printing a headstock decal (and this thread magically appeared!), and I'm not sure how fine I need to go.
If you're using a vector drawing programme, make sure you convert the font to curves. Then exporting to PDF takes care of the resolution for you, perfectly sharp edges. I don't know about other methods, cos that's the only one I've ever used!
Just test on normal paper first till you're happy you have a nice crisp edge, I would think.
Thanks! I did plan to export to PDF, that should work.
I'm using an old version of Photoshop (not a 'vector drawing' program, I gather), using its Text feature with the available fonts, and I 'warped' the line of text to curve it.
Speaking of curves, vs. fonts -- not sure what that means (I'm perty ignernt about those things) but will do some studying.
I'm going to have the actual printing done at a good copy place down the street, maybe they'll have advice about what works for them.
Once I get it down, I have a feeling I'm going to be putting waterslide decals on everything...
I think that's only relevant if you're using a vector drawing programme (CorelDraw, Illustrator, Inkscape), it just helps to ensure crisp edges. I know literally nothing about Photoshop....
As well as this thread, there is also this one:
Fonts vs. curves...
There's two ways that PDFs can contain text.
One, literally as text, with a font assigned to those letters. Either the font file has to be embedded within the PDF, or the person opening the PDF has to have the font installed on their computer.
Alternatively, the strokes of each letter get converted to curves - the meaning of the letters is lost, because now all the PDF contains is a lot of curves (which just happen to look like letters), but the benefit is that there's no need to worry about how it will look when someone else opens it - because everything that matters is in the lines.
If you're exporting to PDF just for someone else to print it, always convert to curves.
Keeping it as text makes sense if they need to be able to search the document (like an e-book), but it's not the safest choice for a headstock decal.
Here you go. PDF and jpeg, whichever you want. Should be about the right size for a standard Fender type headstock (ignore the fact that they appear to be different sizes, they are actually identical)
Thanks so much mate! I'll share the sign on my strato
Anyone have a tutorial for modifying the fender font in illustrator to what you want? I was able to use brushscript and a thin sans style font for the telecaster word.
I'm resurrecting a zombie thread I know-I just stumbled across this because I'm about to attempt my first logo headstock. I'm going to be applying it to an unfinished neck-a roasted maple beauty from Warmoth. I've read every post here with some great interest. After reading in more than one thread that waterslide will not stick to unfinished wood-I decided to go the route of printing on a self-adhesive transparent Grafix Inkjet Film (matte) and then coating with Krylon "Preserve It".....(also matte) i'm hoping this will allow me to "try before I buy" for a while and decide if I like the logo I've created. Hopefully this works - going to go scout out some maple scraps at Home Depot this weekend.
Has anyone use these products before? I'm hoping that the adhesive on the transparent film will not harm or mark the wood under it in case I decide to do something different. Eventually I may apply a thin coat of lacquer to only the top of the headstock.... i'm very hesitant to put anything on this roasted maple neck because of how beautiful it is now.
Why the hesitation to put on a coat of sealer or lacquer of some sort, and sandwich your decal in between layers of finish? I think you're asking for trouble applying adhesive to the raw wood, that might leech or stain the wood and show up around the decal, and it might cause problems with adhesion of the finish when you do get around to it.
A version of the Fender font (fender.ttf) is available for download. Google is your friend.
You're replying to a two-year-old post from a forum member who is now deceased.