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Asher Guitars WD Music Products Amplified Parts Mod Kits DIY Nordstarnd Pickups Warmoth.com
Asher Guitars WD Music Products Amplified Parts Mod Kits DIY Nordstarnd Pickups Warmoth.com

How to make Headstock Decals

Discussion in 'Finely Finished' started by Doth, Mar 2, 2011.

  1. Ja S

    Ja S TDPRI Member

    59
    Aug 31, 2012
    Chicago
    So I've been digging for a different method. Laser printed Wet Decals work and there are methods to handle dark surfaces, but My logo has some details that just don't lend it self to painting the the color for darker backgrounds. The other thing I'm not crazy about is the ghosting of the carrier film on just about anything other than clear Maple. What I'm looking at is a system from http://www.pulsarprofx.com/ they claim to have a dry transfer system that eliminates the carrier and will do white as well as metal foils. I haven't ordered the test kit yet, and I thing my lamination machine will work, Just wondering if any one else has tried this and looking for any thoughts.
     

  2. psp777

    psp777 TDPRI Member

    62
    Feb 19, 2010
    Canada
    very impressed how buried some of those decals are. Is that the vinegar at full strength to feather it and make it less visible? What does Fender do? I mean I can't see any edges on my guitars - but would love to put a personal decal on my parts caster Its blank right now - but the only thing stopping me is I don't want to see decal edges. Would try oil over top of it bury it enough or should a spray be used?
     

  3. barbrainy

    barbrainy RIP

    Mar 2, 2012
    Northampton, UK
    I do what Colt does. Print the decal in reverse, so the ink is on what will be the underside of the decal. Paint the fill of the font on that same side, so that when the decal is applied, both the ink and the paint are face down, against the headstock, with the decal material itself giving it some (very very minimal) protection. It just seemed wayyyyyy easier to me than the JBennett method, and it works for me, so I have stuck with it.....though JBennett is the main man around here as far as this subject goes. From recollection (I haven't re-read the thread) the method uses PVA glue dissolved in the water to ensure the decal remains adhesive when it's reapplied after painting. I see what your saying about the paint covering up that bit of the decal materials adhesive area, but the way I do it, I have not encountered any issue with it adhering.

    One thing I do find that is a tiny bit annoying, but not a huge problem, is that given how fine the decal material is, it's virtually impossible to paint the font fill and keep it perfectly flat. When applied, you can (until clear coated) see some tiny bumps where the paint is a little thicker than in other places. Easily dealt with by clear coating over, but just something to be prepared for.

    I used to use microsol to feather the edges, which I understand works essentially the same as vinegar, and is a product specifically designed for this very purpose, but I've now found that the nitro I use doesn't need any help softening the decal. So much so that if I put a wet coat on first, it pretty much eats the decal up. So a light dusting for the first couple of coats, then some wet coats. Doesn't actually take that many to bury it (obviously, using the products I am, other products will differ, I expect)

    Idk about Fender, but a video I watched with one of their custom shop builds showed them clear coating over the decal very soon after it was applied. Nothing was done/used to feather the edges.

    Lots of members here successfully bury decals under tru oil. It just takes a lot of coats. I did not like the process or results when I did it, though I suspect the results were largely down to my application of it, rather than any issue with tru oil itself. (I just found I was getting too much fluff/dust etc caught in the coats, much more so than I do with spraying nitro)
     

  4. psp777

    psp777 TDPRI Member

    62
    Feb 19, 2010
    Canada
    Unfortunately in Canada we do not have nitro - I wonder if there is another product that would essential do the same thing - kind of dissolve the decal and make it one with the headstock?
     

  5. barbrainy

    barbrainy RIP

    Mar 2, 2012
    Northampton, UK
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2014

  6. psp777

    psp777 TDPRI Member

    62
    Feb 19, 2010
    Canada

  7. barbrainy

    barbrainy RIP

    Mar 2, 2012
    Northampton, UK
    No no, I don't know what their methods are for burying decals.....

    They don't always even do so. AVRIs (not sure if all, but certainly some) don't have clear coats over the decals, to make them period correct....
     

  8. Jack FFR1846

    Jack FFR1846 Tele-Afflicted

    Sep 18, 2011
    Hopkinton, MA
    See if you can find minwax clear lacquer. It is in a black aerosol can.
     

  9. psp777

    psp777 TDPRI Member

    62
    Feb 19, 2010
    Canada
    Yes, that is definitely available - have you had much success with it - gloss? semi gloss? satin?
     

  10. psp777

    psp777 TDPRI Member

    62
    Feb 19, 2010
    Canada
    :p double post sorry
     

  11. hahns

    hahns TDPRI Member

    8
    Sep 10, 2012
    auburn
    laser jet paper with water based lacquer

    I've seen in this thread that the ink jet paper is not something that should be finished with water based lacquer. I've finished my guitar in water based lacquer already and am looking to add a logo. Does anyone know if this would be a problem with the ink jet paper (spraying several more coats over the decal)? People seem to indicate laser paper runs less.

    Thanks.
     

  12. sansa

    sansa Tele-Meister

    311
    Mar 3, 2009
    ITALY
    Can you tell me where can I find the font for these kinds of signs??
    Thanks
     

  13. barbrainy

    barbrainy RIP

    Mar 2, 2012
    Northampton, UK

    The real fender font is a custom font. Ones likes jbennetts or mine are unique, done using a vector drawing programme.

    Some people settle for brush script as being close enough.
     

  14. barbrainy

    barbrainy RIP

    Mar 2, 2012
    Northampton, UK

    ImageUploadedByTDPRI1445968749.340066.jpg
     

  15. netgear69

    netgear69 Tele-Holic

    988
    Dec 21, 2012
    england
    A good method is using self adhesive clear for inkjets you do not have to print your decals reversed print them as normal high resolution peel it off then using a Sakura metallic silver or gold nib size 0.7 fill in the blanks don't worry about the stickyness these pens are not ball point they will write over any surface also it does not matter if you go into the black it wont be visible leave the ink to dry for about 10 mins then stick the decal on the headstock it will stay there for life or just clear coat it like a water slide decal
    Personally i prefer to silk screen i like the vintage raised font effect
     

    Attached Files:


  16. sansa

    sansa Tele-Meister

    311
    Mar 3, 2009
    ITALY

  17. barbrainy

    barbrainy RIP

    Mar 2, 2012
    Northampton, UK

    Yes, happy to share what I have. It's not all letters, just those I have needed so far. But if you don't have vector drawing software (eg Corel draw, illustrator or Inkscape) it probably won't be a lot of use...
     

  18. sansa

    sansa Tele-Meister

    311
    Mar 3, 2009
    ITALY
    Ok you can send it as a private message if you want....
     

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