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Discussion in 'Amp Central Station' started by Bob Womack, Mar 12, 2018.
The title says it all. How long do I have to go before it works out?
I never knew it worked out.
Maybe some cone dope
A long, long way.
Quicker if you have the recone kit shipped overnight delivery.
Can someone describe "cone cry" to me ?
When you get greedy and get two scoops instead of one. Then it falls off halfway to the car and you get cone cry.
Same as cone rub. Nasty sound increasing with volume. There is a tiny gap where the voice coil passes through.... something... and the 'cry' is caused by the coil rubbing.
I don't know why it happens in all cases, but JBLs suffer from it because there was a piece of foam rubber inside the enclosure, and it turns to dust over time. If any of these particles get caught in the gap.... Boo hoo...
Pushed hard a speaker makes a bit of squeak or lower tone buzzy squawk on certain notes and volumes, but not continuously. That's as close as I can get to defining it!
AFAIK cone cry does not "work out". It could though I suppose. Not sure if it caused by out of round voice coil former most often or something else. Seems more prevalent on speakers with tight voice coil gaps..... I think...
But.. that doesn't work out, that just gets worse till the speaker quits entirely and is usually an overheated voicecoil, or some crud in the coil as you point out.
You can't play that out.
I had an EVM-L-F (for Fender) that exhibited this effect during a recording session, where it was so loud , I did it from the control room.
Long story short, Fender informed me, that the speaker apparently had had a NAIL fall into the voicecoil, during manufacture, and that this nail had been stuck to the magnet and dancing around in there, and when I turned it up really loud in the studio, it was eating the voice coil. Speaker was replaced.
I just had another thought, which is that it is recommended ( sometimes) to occasionally re-install and
reorient the speaker to prevent the voice coil sagging from gravity, and causing a rub.
Cone cry is not related to voice coil rub. These two things are separate issues. Cone cry occurs in all-paper...no doping....lightweight cones that are being pushed hard. The cone distorts and produces harmonics/Frequencies that are not related to what the player is playing. The same speaker when played with a lower power signal can function normally and sound good. Doping can reduce the effect.
Voice coil rub will occur with any signal and is a problem that demands either a recentering of the coil or a recone.
What Wally said. I can get some cone cry with my original P12R in my '54 Deluxe if it's pushed hard. The cone is very light paper, is not doped and those speakers were only rated at about 12 watts when new. It sounds stunning at low volumes but at certain frequencies when gigging you are going to notice it.
Conversely, with the '59 P12Q that I currently run in it (about a 14 watt speaker) I don't get any. The paper used to form the cone is apparently just enough heavier that it's not an issue.
I had a speaker that had cone cry and it took three coats of rubber cement glue beorit disappeared. I don't think there's any other way to fix it unless you want to recone which doesn't make sense. Here's a definition of cone cry
Go to the Resources tab and then to Speaker Terms
Cone cry occurs when you're giving it too much power; you're pushing it too hard. Get a speaker with a proper power rating for the amp you're using.
I once managed to cure this by simply turning the whole speaker cabinet upside down.
I suppose I may be hearing something else, because what I'm hearing isn't happening when the speaker is pushed. In fact, the speaker is rated at 75 watts (a Warehouse G10C) and the amp is rated at 12 watts (it is a '68 custom Fender Princeton). The speaker is new. What I hear is a tiny bit of fizz on some notes when this relatively low, around 2 on the dial. The level of the fizz doesn't increase as the signal increases, in fact you can actually drown it out with a little volume. I've done the round of screws and nuts on the amp and have checked the relationship between the chassis and the drip rail to see if it is a rattle. All the efforts made it almost go away. I suppose this could be a typical irritating combo cabinet rattle. For that matter, it seems to come more from the back of the amp than the front. Funny, huh?
You can check for cabinet rattles by sitting on it while you play, then rotate it to a different side. I once discovered a lower back panel that was rubbing on the bottom of the cabinet that way.
Beat me to it, that worked on a 1x12 of mine as well. Gave it a 180 and no more issue.
I did forget to mention that rotating the speaker 180 degrees will sometimes realign the voice coil and eliminate rub...for some period of time. It may be that in such situations, the cone assembly is too much for the spider to support....things fatigue. Rotating changes the direction of the effect of gravity on those physical components.
Back to cone cry......
If it's a buzz you're chasing (very much likeley with a '68 PR) and FenderLover's proposal won't give you any hint look for a loose screw in the electronic compartment and fasten (or remove) that little cardboard sitting behind the speaker jacks.