Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by Muzikp, Apr 15, 2015.
Gotta hear it....
You are a braver man than I! I thought about doing something similar with the tele shape for a while last year, but the horn is what eventually made me chicken out...
James ,tThe proper bending iron is the way to go for this job. Also the piece of wood that you use is crucial , the walnut you have been using seems to have a short interlocking grain , kinda like if you lock your fingers to do that thumb trick.
You ideally should select your wood such that at the horn the grain is as straight and vertical at that point. Do the horn first.
You should find things easier with the maple , even fir if it's sawn right.
Tim's pic if you look again apart from the little knots the grain is at an angle to the cut of the wood , it would never work.
Flat and straight grain for this.
Here's the lump that you cut your sides from , I've put arrows at the points where the grain is running across your cut. Not going to work unless its as thin as a veneer and even then it could be iffy.
Lastly , to emphasize the point here's a google image search for guitar back and sides sets.
You will notice that the majority have very flat straight grained sides. Some of the very busy looking sides could well be disasters in the making .
As always Mac, that's great info, I was wondering about the grain in my board. Today is the day to get the pipe bender up and running. I'll see what I can come up with for better sawn wood. Thanks Mac.
Before I get the pipe bender going I had to knock out a few repairs. Anybody ever heard of James Neligan?
I have no idea how much this guitar costs or where it's from. It says it is hand made and wow!!! It's just fantastic. Incredible tone and really even volume across the strings. It's just a fantastic guitar. Whoever you are James... well done.
James if you are re sawing for sides you want to have a good eyeball along your slab and pick the line of grain that is the straightest and cut along that line . It may be that you will have to cut at an angle along your slab , whilst seemingly wasteful it will give you much more workable wood.
Previous comments about thinning in the area of the horn are good also. Reinforce once you have your shape formed and stable. Maybe 1-1.5mm
Have fun with your bender , I hope it works out. You will find that there is a certain amount of heat / temperature at which the wood seems to just give up the fight and becomes quite plastic and floppy. You want to just ease into this state and not over heat.
Don't forget to pre heat your next inch as you go along. Sort of a too and fro action on the iron whilst moving along at the same time.
Some wood will not respond well to re heating , you will find out about this as you practice.
Best of luck M
Here's the before shot
Here it is assembled
The base that holds the torch slides to and fro, in and out (dunno that should give brainy options).
So when it's all the way out the torch is about here in the bell end.
You'll notice I modified the pipe arrangement, went down to 1/2" because it was obvious the 3/4" was too big and I didn't really need the 1" part.
When it's all the way in the bell end
Cool... uhhh, or the exact opposite I guess.
Here's a thick piece of walnut that goes against everyones advice. Not thinned in the tight curve area, no snuggly Downy soft, not the best grain for bending.
That's awesome. Should be good when I thin it down, get some better grain going and use the super soft. If I'm honest I may skip the super soft because I have none and I don't want to go get some. If I have trouble then I'll get some.
I used this metal strap as the backer. I only pulled on the metal strap to do the bending never the wood. I think an old leather belt would work better. Gotta see if I have one of those laying around.
So I'm sufficiently over-confident, I'm gonna go try and make a real side out of walnut.
Boom! Nice work, James! Thank you for plowing ahead with your design. We can speculate all day long, but until one of us actually tries something, we never really know if it'll work or not. Nicely done.
Good work James. Did you ' feel ' the wood ' give' ? Once you get that feel you are in control.
Where the proper bending iron scores is having the multiple radii that allow you to flow through the shapes that a guitar has.
What you will find is in the more gentle curves you are only making a point contact with the pipe , hence making a smooth bend becomes tricky. You might want to get some pipe cut offs in larger diameters that you can just slip over the pipe you have. Maybe take a while to reach heat but you will be glad of the easier radius.
I'm sure you can see where the guys who make acoustics have an easier time of it. No pointy bits !!
IMO if you can bend like that with the material you have then you should be able to get away with no thinning. To tighten up that bend give it a good heat and while hot, whip it off the heat and over bend it and the radius will reduce. Let the sharpest bit set then re heat the softer radius. Then you can fix it by bending outwards leaving the tight bit 'set '.
If you haven't done so already please watch this
Mac it was really obvious when the wood was ready to bend and how much. I also learned that you have to hold it in the shape you want while it cools. It really held it's shape well when I did that.
Ok onto doing the real thing. I did as Mac suggested and used the best part of that walnut board, cutting with the grain as vertical as possible. I marked where all the bends changed direction and also the sharpest point of the horn.
I did thin it a little bit around the horn area but not very much. Barely noticeable actually.
And Bob's your uncle
Looking back I don't think I needed to thin the horn area. This really wasn't very hard.
I have another boring video... do y'all want me to post it?
Very nice. I don't think the thinning hurt anything.
Oops , I forgot to mention that bit , there is some springback.
You're doing really well here James for having a McGuyver iron and funky wood. Once you get past the horn it will be a breeze by comparison. Heed what I said about the bigger radius pipe 4" should do it , clamp it in place.
Do a test and see how you do making a lower bout shape , use some of your scrap. You will toil for making a lot of little bends.
Anyway off you pop to The Fox and Goose and get yerself a cold one. M
Ah , you beat me to it
Ok now I gotta learn to make kerfing next. It's just one new thing after another around here.
I notice that at 1.34 pm you arrived with your shopping and by 3.10 pm you have done your bend. And filed all your posts.
Not hanging about here are we ?
Going to try some maple ? It might scorch a little.
Here's a clue , same as making a fretboard then slice it along the way 45 deg then 90.
You will need a heap of old style clothes pegs , the spring type or small bulldog clips