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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by Muzikp, Apr 15, 2015.
Hmmm... Where have I seen that before?
You may have to sand the radius area VERY thin and then reinforce it from the inside with a block of whatever.
And again, you might try the Super Soft as well. I know a lot of acoustic builders who swear by it.
I was prepared to spend the $200 for the bender but that sounds too easy and it also doesn't look like a small enough radius. Rick I like this idea and it's really well done. Still looks too big though, i'd like a 1 or 1.5" radius. That did get me thinking though, and I've now got a new plan for a small bender. Give me a day or two to get it up and running and as always I'll report the results good or bad.
Thanks Roger. I think I'm going to have to do everything mentioned by everybody. Thinner wood at the horn, higher heat on the tight bend, super soft mixture. I'm actually enjoying the challenge, it's always more fun when you are doing something new, well new to me anyway. I realize people have been bending sides for a 100 years. Less than a week in my case .
That stewmac bender comes with a bolt on attachment for smaller bends...like mandolins and violins:
It's good people in my office are used to me having random things like this on my desk. Nobody seemed alarmed at all.
The idea is the torch goes in the bell end (sitting on the kleenex box), there will be dirt in the lower riser pipe to keep the heat going down to whatever I bolt this to. The vertical pipe is 3/4" which still seems too large but it will get me closer. I may add a 1/2" piece to it if this doesn't work. Maybe this will be close enough to get it on the mold after some pre-bending with this pipe contraption. The horizontal pipe is 1" so that may help me do the inside of the horn. It's all a grand expirement so who knows???
Does bell end mean there what it means here? Cos, you know.....a torch being inserted into one's bell end, well, that might sting a tad....
Lol, I can't wait to hear what it means on your side of the pond .
You will not thank me for lowering the tone.
I'll just say think 'male anatomy' and leave it there. Making my apologies as I leave, for dirtying up yet another respectable thread...
imagine the worst.
...and as for "dirt in the lower riser pipe", well, it might get a bit "eeer, no... stop messing about".
Any of the Brits here like "Round the Horne"?
Jeez...I think I have every single episode ever recorded. And about the only thing I ever had in common with my Dad. Laughing till tears rolled down our cheeks .....
BUT WAIT!~ There's more. (Practicing for my new gig as an infomercial pitchman!)
Not content with a klunky charcoal grill lighter, up too big a pipe (or Brainy's Bell End), I kept searching, and found the answer. Well, AN answer, anyway. Cartridge heaters. Also known as insertion heaters. [Brainy--I'm warning you--don't you dare. . . . .[
Very small, compact, and capable of great amounts of heat, controlled by a 600W light dimmer, they run offa your 120 volt house current. Most of the sites I found said a 300 W or 500 W one should be ample for any size bending pipe.
One guy I read about said he packed aluminum foil between his pipe and the cartridge heater for good heat conduction between the pipe and the heater. Simple electrical hookup, and again, no flames in the woodshop. Being small, they'll fit into the smallest radius pipe (like your 1-incher, James) you'd need for wood bending. Looks promising to me.
I also found a site where a guy made his own controller for silicone blankets, so he could dial in the temp he wanted, and it was very accurate. No reason that same apparatus couldn't be used on a heat pipe--dial in your temp (300 deg. F), and it'll keep it there all day.
Heat cartridges are all over ebay, they are a staple of CNC 3-d printers so there's lots of them. Chinese, but there are plenty of US made, UL-listed ones if you prefer to not take a little chance. . . .http://www.ebay.com/bhp/cartridge-heater-120v
And for about $50 bucks, the controller. . . https://jcclarkukuleles.wordpress.com/my-guitarmaker-articles/120-volt-electric-side-bending-blanket-controller/
Anyhow, just another option. Hmm, maybe I CAN bend some purpleheart for a 335. . . . .
You naughty Brits! Go to your rooms without supper, right now.
Yes, yes you can. Now go get bent... errr go bend something.
That's a cool heater gadget, I'll table that option for now. After assembling my pipe that "necks down" to 3/4" I'm thinking I need another "bell end" to "neck down" to 1/2". There's some low hanging fruit for brainy.
Indeed, Brainy finds low-hanging fruit just about everywhere! BTW, nice view outta your office window.
Must be a cool place to work, last time I brought some pipes, and caps, and some 'uh, other stuff into the office, I got to meet the nice men in the funny suits and the sniffing dogs. If I'd only brought in some bell ends, I prolly wouldn't have had no trouble at all.
If you are serious about spending that sort of money it might be worth your time to find out if a heating blanket will work given the radius. My suspicion is that the problem is simply that the treble point is too tight a radius for solid walnut regardless of heat and that veneering is the only way to go. But I know that (larger) heating blankets have been used on thicker (3/8") walnut for harpsichord sides and the wood bends like cardboard.
That looks like a very promising option, Rick, and not nearly as expensive as I thought it would be. Looks like I've got more gadgets to make, too .
James, do you think you'll have enough heat transfer to enough of the vertical pipe with your configuration? With the inexpensive heaters that Rick found, it would be more direct to the bending part of the iron and would give you much better temp control.
Mmmmm. Low hanging fruit.
Hmm, just thinking...
By the way, if the UK definition of bell end was news to you, you might not want to know, now you are an experienced and proficient bender, what else 'bender' means here....
Do tell. . .