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Asher Guitars WD Music Products Amplified Parts Mod Kits DIY Nordstarnd Pickups Warmoth.com Reilander Pickups
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Help with failed crybaby stinkfoot mod

Discussion in 'Burnt Fingers DIY Effects' started by Okieactor, Mar 25, 2013.

  1. Okieactor

    Okieactor Tele-Holic

    672
    Jun 19, 2009
    Austin, TX
    Hey All,

    Ran into a small problem with my stinkfoot mod. Did the true bypass, the led, and the tone mod. Actually, I did the tone mod first, that was great. But then I ruined it by trying to do the full set of mods. Should have known I was tempting fate, I am just not good enough to successfully perform 3 mods without something going wrong.

    So bypass works fine. No signal, no light in the ON position. I can post pics. Has anyone done this one, and can you by any chance tell what I did?

    Thanks in advance.
     
  2. Okieactor

    Okieactor Tele-Holic

    672
    Jun 19, 2009
    Austin, TX
    Sorry, those are kind of just thrown in there in no particular order. Also, for some reason, some of them are on their side compared to how they were taken. Not sure why.

    If anyone is familiar with the stinkfoot LED, true bypass, and tone mods, your help is greatly appreciated. If you think you can help, but can't see well enough, let me know what you need to see better and I'll take more pics.

    http://stinkfoot.se/archives/557
     
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  4. Jake's Dad

    Jake's Dad TDPRI Member

    86
    Dec 25, 2011
    Cypress, Texas
    I did the Stinkfoot by-pass and LED mods to a Jimi Hendrix Wah this weekend and it worked perfectly. I took the power and ground for the LED off the back of the board because there is lots of surplus solder there:p

    Mine looks like this:
     

    Attached Files:

  5. Jake's Dad

    Jake's Dad TDPRI Member

    86
    Dec 25, 2011
    Cypress, Texas
    Where did you pull the power and ground for the LED from? I took mine from the two resistors right below the 9v jack (of course I used the back of the board so you can't see them in the pic).
     
  6. Okieactor

    Okieactor Tele-Holic

    672
    Jun 19, 2009
    Austin, TX
    Ummm...I guess I don't understand how the switch works then. So that'd be one answer: I guess...maybe I did not hook up the led right. I just wired one of the poles to the upper right switch lug and the other to the middle right.

    But that still doesn't solve my problem, because in trouble shooting, I've disconnected the led completely at the switch, in case it was shorting to ground and causing the problem. Still got no signal in ON position, indicating I've maybe got a power problem elsewhere...?
     
  7. Jake's Dad

    Jake's Dad TDPRI Member

    86
    Dec 25, 2011
    Cypress, Texas
    The two columns of poles on the left side are the active ones for switching the pedal on/off and passing the signal. The third column on the right is, in this application, used to power the LED. It looks like you have the switch in the correct orientation. Swap the white and black/brown wires you took from the board to the center column and I believe you'll have sound. For the LED you'll need to take power from the top of the inside resistor right below the 9v jack - run this wire to the bottom right pole on the switch. Take wire from the middle right pole to the cathode (long leg) of the LED with a resistor in line (I used a 220K). Attach a wire to the other leg of the LED and take it down to the top of the outside resistor below the 9v jack and there will be light.
     
  8. Okieactor

    Okieactor Tele-Holic

    672
    Jun 19, 2009
    Austin, TX
    Ok, I have the wires ready for the led. They are just currently disconnected. So you are pretty sure that I have my white/black in the center column (Center and Top/Center, respectively) switched with each other?

    Currently my white wire goes:
    lower left on board (from one side of where a 2-ended resistor used to be...
    TO
    Center on the switch.

    Currently my black wire goes:
    from the lower left hole in a 3-lead component that was removed, which has an almost circular outline on the board
    TO
    TOP/CENTER on switch.
     
  9. Okieactor

    Okieactor Tele-Holic

    672
    Jun 19, 2009
    Austin, TX
    YEAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHH! We have wah! Now trying for LED...
    9:17pm central...

    Umm...your diagnosis was correct. Thank you much.
     
  10. Jake's Dad

    Jake's Dad TDPRI Member

    86
    Dec 25, 2011
    Cypress, Texas
    "Diagnosis" is a pretty high dollar word. I'm pretty much a Tab A to Slot B kind of guy. Glad I could help.
     
  11. Okieactor

    Okieactor Tele-Holic

    672
    Jun 19, 2009
    Austin, TX
    While you're still responding...can you further explain...
    "the top of the inside resistor right below the 9v jack " ?
     
  12. Armo

    Armo Tele-Meister

    379
    Nov 13, 2008
    Wales
    You can get power for the LED from the empty slot on the plastic board connector. Just push a wire in with the back of a knife and then you can earth on the back of the potentiometer (black wire).
     
  13. Jake's Dad

    Jake's Dad TDPRI Member

    86
    Dec 25, 2011
    Cypress, Texas
    Sorry, sleep and work delayed my response.

    At the upper edge of your third photo you can see the 9v jack just to the right of the output jack. Just to the right of that are a diode closest to the outside and a resistor toward the inside. The Stinkfoot LED mod takes 9v power from the end of the resistor closest to the jack and ground from the same end of the diode. Your board looks a less solder happy than mine so you might want to go at it from the top.
     
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