Heartbreaking mistake-- need to remove a fretboard

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by ppg677, Apr 19, 2019.

  1. ppg677

    ppg677 Tele-Meister

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    Well this is heartbreaking-- first time cutting my own fret slots. I had printed off a fret scale from WFret. I spot checked it with a caliber to ensure my printer was accurate. Then I carefully used spray adhesive and applied it to a board to cut the slots. Then I was an idiot and assumed it was foolproof and went as far as fretting the neck with stainless steel frets (and I nailed the fret job...they went in so beautifully).

    Unfortunately I think I must have stretched the paper scale when I was applying it to the maple for cutting, because the slots are off when I put it against another guitar. Then I reprinted the scale and it agreed the slots are off.

    I'd like to salvage the rest of the neck because I already cut the glue-in neck slot to fit the neck perfectly. Anyone know how I can remove the fretboard? I used Titebond I glue.

    There goes $15 in abalone fret markers, $18 in stainless steel frets, and countless hours of my time to tediously hand-radious that with a sanding block :( This one makes me want to quit.

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  2. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Doctor of Teleocity Silver Supporter

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  3. Shuster

    Shuster Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    I'd like to know how it sounds with everything a tad off, with some alternated alternate tuning, might be what everyone has been doing wrong all these years:twisted::D
     
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  4. Stefanovich

    Stefanovich Tele-Holic

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    I removed the fretboard recently on a cheap Chinese strat. As guitar builder said, some heat and palette knives and you are good to go. My only advice is to be patient. 30-40 minutes is not uncommon.

    There a few YouTube videos that show how to do it.
     
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  5. ppg677

    ppg677 Tele-Meister

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    If it wasn't a set-neck guitar, I'd finish up the neck and find out.
     
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  6. jrblue

    jrblue Tele-Afflicted

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    Good luck. I find it hard to believe that a self-printed fret slot guide would yield precision results. Too many ways to mess up, IMO.
     
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  7. Freeman Keller

    Freeman Keller Tele-Afflicted

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    This is some what embarrassing but I recently built a guitar for a friend and made some assumptions about what he wanted for fretboard markers. I was completely wrong (and it was my own fault since we had agreed to talk about this when I got ready to do it). Anyway, board was inlayed and fretted and glued to the neck with Titebond.

    I put the neck on the silicon heat blanket that I use for side bending and let it get nice and hot. Worked a pallet knife in the end and slowly walked the knife down the neck - the glue seam separated cleanly. There was one very small piece of neck wood (mahogany) that came off with the f/b but otherwise it was just fine.

    Made a new fretboard, put this one away since there really is nothing wrong with it and life is good.

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    edit to add, I know the blanket will reach 350 to 400 degrees F since thats what I bend at, I don't know what temp the f/b was but it was pretty hot. I use similar heat blankets for loosening fretboard extensions when doing neck resets and for removing bridges when regluing.
     
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  8. ppg677

    ppg677 Tele-Meister

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    Hmm... if I do the measurements on a 25.58" scale rather than 25.5" scale, honestly it is pretty damn close. What kind of tolerances do we need here for a decent musical instrument?? I would say I'm within 2% tolerance when measuring for a 25.58" scale!
     
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2019
  9. TeleTucson

    TeleTucson Tele-Afflicted Ad Free Member

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    Honestly, don't fret quite yet!! :D :D

    You may be perfectly OK. This might be perfectly accommodated by just lengthening the scale a bit with a bridge/saddle adjustment by a few mm. Really. Give it a shot, and you may be 100% in tune with a slightly longer scale length that makes virtually no difference at all.

    Edit: On closer inspection, it looks like your "stretching" may not be so uniform. I'd still be inclined to give it a shot, though. It does look like widening the nut slot towards the bridge just a hair and using a slightly wider nut may help a but, but the rest should just be an easy scale length tweak requiring nothing but conventional saddle adjustments.
     
    Last edited: Apr 20, 2019
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  10. ppg677

    ppg677 Tele-Meister

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    I think you're right...I think I'm within 2% tolerance when measuring for a 25.58" scale instead of 25.5" scale!

    Hmm...I might just string this up (without glueing) and see how it tunes...
     
  11. trev333

    trev333 Telefied Ad Free Member

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    [​IMG]

    if you moved the nut a few mm toward the frets it would match up, right?...

    a few mm shorter over the scale length would not be missed...;)
     
  12. S00NERMAN

    S00NERMAN Tele-Meister

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    Looks like you would be pretty close if you moved the nut slot just a bit and just made a bit thicker nut. (Or a stairstep nut, or fill and cover with veneer, or...)
     
  13. EsquireOK

    EsquireOK Friend of Leo's

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    Bolt that sucker on to a test plank, and see what happens.
     
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  14. TRexF16

    TRexF16 Friend of Leo's Vendor Member

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    I'm so glad you have not yanked this fretboard off yet! I am with the cohort that thinks maybe this will be perfectly fine with just a slight adjustment of the saddles. I recommend you take the measurement from the nut to the 12th fret, double it (to yield the scale length) then input that scale length into a fret calculator and then carefully check the output against what you actually have there. I bet it'll be pretty darn close, unless you managed to stretch your paper template in some sort of strangely asymmetric way.
    I wouldn't move the nut unless your measurements indicate that's needed.

    Interested to hear how this all works out.
    Rex
     
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  15. magic smoke

    magic smoke Tele-Meister

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    It’s a right of passage to remove the fretboard from a neck you just built. I’d bet money that every one of the greatest builders have been there when paying their dues. If there’s a way to string it up in the white to check intonation without permanently mounting the bridge go for it. If you need to drill bridge mounts in an off location to test you might end up needing to make a new body too. What type of guitar?
     
  16. TeleTucson

    TeleTucson Tele-Afflicted Ad Free Member

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    If he had made a more precise measurement you might have been teleported from the land of Quantum Entanglement right into his shop in Wisconsin ... :cool: :lol:
     
    Last edited: Apr 20, 2019
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  17. 24 track

    24 track Doctor of Teleocity Silver Supporter

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    I did a fret board removal on my beltone because the neck itself was concave so i sanded it level ,then reinsatalled it only to find out the truss rod was stripped so I had to remove it all over again to fix the truss rod


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  18. Macrogats

    Macrogats Tele-Afflicted

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    Yeah man, I’m with Tucson and the others on the opinion of tweaking the nut/scale length. With a few minor adjustments she could be totally playable.

    What I’m not gonna tell you is how I totally screwed up scale length on my last Strat build after swapping out/changing my mind on the neck I used. *doh*
     
  19. Jupiter

    Jupiter Telefied Silver Supporter

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    I would DEFINITELY investigate the possibility of just having a slightly longer FB scale first...
     
  20. hopdybob

    hopdybob Tele-Holic

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    paper will stretch when it gets damp/wet.
    the way a make my sanding blocks/sticks is to take a role of sanding paper.
    cut it in length put wood glue on the back an whait a while.
    then glue and clamp it on the wood and let it dry,
    when the moisture off the wood glue evaporates the paper shrinks a bit and is lying flat on the wood
     
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