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Hardest easy/wipe on finish for pine?

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by JRevel, Jun 28, 2013.

  1. JRevel

    JRevel Tele-Meister

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    This is for my Bill Bo. The pine dents when admired too strongly. What's a thin and easy to apply finish that gets somewhat hard? Shellac?
     
  2. OpenG Capo4

    OpenG Capo4 Friend of Leo's

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    Tru Oil. The wipe-on finish of champions.

    Minwax makes a wipe-on poly that a lot of people like. I've never used it so I can't comment on it other than to say it exists.
     
  3. teleforumnoob

    teleforumnoob Tele-Afflicted

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    Flake shellac. Mix it thin and do a buncha coats.
    But if you dont mind neutral color, and don't wanna be bothered with mixing flake, just get a can of this
    [​IMG]
    Its, dewaxed, and thin enough to brush or wipe right on, straight outta the can.
    This body is 10-12 thin coats of it, then a couple more thin coats of it mixed with a little garnett flake I had. Thats it. Simple as pie.
    [​IMG]
     
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  5. teleforumnoob

    teleforumnoob Tele-Afflicted

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    I've used the wipe on minwax poly(satin) on necks. It works fine. Heck of a lot easier than spraying nitro.
     
  6. JRevel

    JRevel Tele-Meister

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    very nice. How hard is the finish? Did it take all 10 coats to be appreciably hard?
     
  7. teleforumnoob

    teleforumnoob Tele-Afflicted

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    Seems pretty hard to me, but its pawlonia, even softer than pine. I could dent it with a fingernail if I tried, but so far it hasnt gotten any noticable dents. Its been on a stand in my music room for almost a yr now. Hasnt been out of the house more than a couple of times in a gig bag tho. And yea, it took a lot of coats to build up any kind of thinkness/hardness. I didnt even bother to grain fill it so its still wood grainy to the touch. I would apply a coat, let it dry good 30 min-hr between. THe more coats the longer the drying time it seemed. Eventually your coats stop soaking in as well and you get some tiny beads in places when it dries. I'd knock those off very lightly w some 600 grit and put on another coat. I just kept going till it seemed like I had enough. The last 2 coats w the flake mixed in just darkened it a little. I disolved the flake in datnatured alc then mixed the 2 solutions, to keep a thin consistancy. When shellac gets thick its really hard to get even.

    One thing about it tho is if dosnt turn out hard enough to suit you could always go over the top of it with just about anything, its compatible.
     
  8. Bentley

    Bentley Friend of Leo's

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    I know this might sound stupid, but maybe a couple coats of lacquer. Brush on a couple coats, and it might work great. I know that when I lacquered a table I made, with two coats, it didn't build up to much, but it feels a lot harder, and is shinier. Keep in mind it was a mahogany table.. Might be worth a test.
     
  9. teleforumnoob

    teleforumnoob Tele-Afflicted

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    I dunno about brushing on laq, but this stuff works great and can go right over shellac.
    Takes a while to cure tho. Spray outside and wear a respirator.
    Available at Wallyworld at about $5 can. Prob take 5-6 cans.
    [​IMG]
     
  10. xardoz

    xardoz Tele-Meister

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    Looks great - what did you wipe it on with? Any tips or suggestions?
     
  11. magicguitar

    magicguitar Tele-Afflicted

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    Tru Oil. The wipe-on finish of champions.

    +1
     
  12. teleforumnoob

    teleforumnoob Tele-Afflicted

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    xardoz,

    clean old white t shirt. Went thru 2 or 3 of em, cause after the shellac sets up and gets hard you gotta get another rag. I just tore off some strips and rolled em up, dipped and spread it on, working fast. You gotta get it on and leave it alone, the more you rub it around the worse it gets. Dip, swipe, get the drips, and move on. You can't fuss over it.
     
  13. nosmo

    nosmo Friend of Leo's

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    I'd say the hardest to apply would be some type of bubble gum based finish. The easiest I have used is Tru-Oil :D
     
  14. teleforumnoob

    teleforumnoob Tele-Afflicted

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    I may try tru oil on the neck of my current project. I've avoided it so far because shellac is so easy, or for necks, wipe on poly is even easier. People seem to indicate it takes a whole lot more coats and a lotta rubbing and stained fingers. I may get some medical gloves and give it a go tho. Guess a trip to the gun shop is in order.
     
  15. kwerk

    kwerk Poster Extraordinaire

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    I suggest you do the neck in Tru-Oil first and then tackle the body afterwards. I think you'll find the TO doesn't stain fingers at all, at least not in my experience. You can get a great finish in just a few coats, Though for a body I'm inclined to just keep using the bottle until it gets too thick or runs out completely. I think once you've done the neck, you'll be convinced.

    This is a TO body and neck:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  16. teleforumnoob

    teleforumnoob Tele-Afflicted

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    ^My current project is gonna get paint on the body, some goof ups I plan to hide on this one. The neck has a rosewood board tho, so I guess I'll give tru oil a go on the headstock and back of it. Heard so many good things about it I gotta try it sooner or later.

    Thats a right pretty guitar.
     
  17. Mojotron

    Mojotron Friend of Leo's

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    Pine will flex quite a bit, so trying to go hard is going to be problematic as hard usually means rigid too - what happens then (as with Lacquer) is that the finish will chip off a little at a time: Which is a great worn look - did that on a Western Red Cedar Tele a few years ago and it looks pretty neat after a few years - seems to have aged 10 times faster than lacquer on Ash.

    What you may want to do is go with something that is pretty durable and easily repaired. Any Poly would win the durability contest if there were enough coats, but Poly does not repair well. The top coats will melt lower coats with Shellac and Lacquer so those are pretty durable and reparable - I like Shellac and just spray it on just like Lacquer for pine.

    The main issue is that you can't really make the wood harder, so it's going to either need finish repair from time to time or do like everyone else and go with the warn-in look. The main purpose of a finish on a softwood is to try to seal it as much as possible. The finish will protect a little, but not a lot since the wood between the grain is pretty soft with Pine.

    So TO, Shellac, Lacquer is gong to get you a pretty serviceable finish.
     
  18. JRevel

    JRevel Tele-Meister

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    I ended up going with Minwax wipe on poly over several coats of Maloof's finish.

    I'm on the third coat today and I think this is a great way to go so far. Goes on easy, dries relatively quick (ACTUALLY dry and able to sand in 4 hours), and even with one coat I could tell there was a "shell" of finish on the body.

    Pics to follow.
     
  19. teleforumnoob

    teleforumnoob Tele-Afflicted

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    That will certainly work and look just fine. Simple easy. I've used it a lot on maple necks, and furniture. The only prob is its not very repairable, as has been said. But hey, if you arn't beating it to heck thats not gonna be issue anyway.
     
  20. JRevel

    JRevel Tele-Meister

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    Oh no, I'm going to beat the hell out of it. It'll get played out a lot. But that's how that goes. :twisted:
     
  21. metecem

    metecem Tele-Afflicted

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    Hy kwerk, is that a red palm neck????
     
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