Asher Guitars WD Music Products Amplified Parts Mod Kits DIY Nordstarnd Pickups Warmoth.com
Asher Guitars WD Music Products Amplified Parts Mod Kits DIY Nordstarnd Pickups Warmoth.com
Asher Guitars WD Music Products Amplified Parts Mod Kits DIY Nordstarnd Pickups Warmoth.com

Give it to me straight doctor...

Discussion in 'Finely Finished' started by Sarde, Nov 16, 2017.

  1. Silverface

    Silverface Poster Extraordinaire Platinum Supporter

    Age:
    65
    Mar 2, 2003
    Lawndale CA
    Question - how thick was the white applied - and HOW did you apply it (i.e. how many coats, and in how many "passes" per coat?).

    If it was applied in a single pass and/or too thickly that could have been the entire problem - and it would not have needed to be removed.

    The blobs/runs at the corners and ferrule holes tell me it was applied WAY too thickly - and all at once. That's totally wrong.

    EVERYTHING sprayed should be applied in thin coats consisting of 3 VERY thin passes per coat. A single pass should be very transparent, and a single coat should not fully cover by itself. If either does - it's too thick!

    And apply everything - the entire system, to completion - on a piece of scrap BEFORE you start on a body if you have not used even one of the components before. That is how you recognize - and solve - preparation problems, product incompatibility, thickness issues, environmental problems, technique issues, finish sanding problems, get your questions answered *ahead of time* etc.

    It's how "what happened to my guitar?" threads are avoided..some of which are "no-return"... and useful, "what is this problem on this piece of scrap wood?" threads are created. And how a lot of money is saved.
     
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2017
    DrASATele likes this.

  2. DrASATele

    DrASATele Poster Extraordinaire

    Jul 6, 2012
    North of Boston
    As other have said, shellac is just about as universal as a sealer can get. In this can if it was the Amber or Clear Zinsser stuff, there's a slight bit of wax in there but not so much to cause the issues in the pictures. I think Silverface is on to something in terms of thickness of coat for the white. Back to the shellac, Sealcoat by Zinssers is a completely wax free sealer and you can make it as well as Mike pointed out. Side note, the clear rattle can Zinsser stuff is not like it's canned counter part and does not have wax.

    I have read & experienced issues with lacquer, Nitro, over the BIN primer by Zinsser. So if you're thinking about going in that direction, it might not be worth it. Something about the white and the shellac formulation just ruins color and top coats.
     

  3. Vizcaster

    Vizcaster Friend of Leo's

    Sep 15, 2007
    Glen Head, NY
    Shellac is a fantastic sealer and a very good barrier coat when you're trying to seal in dyes or pitch (knots) and in fact it will help adhesion for other coating materials on top. However, pre-mixed shellac, whether its in a can or a spray bomb, can have issues if (1) not being fresh because they absorb alcohol after you open them - not an issue here with a spray can version, or (2) there are pH incompatibility issues that are particularly nasty for topcoating with waterborne lacquers - again not what the OP is using here.

    I've experienced the same type of crazing trying to paint over house trim that I sealed with Zinsser. Since then when a finishing job calls for it I mix shellac from flakes.

    Good news is that lacquer thinner is going to strip off the cracked primer as well as the shellac underneath. Someone (Formby's IRRC) used to sell a mix of denatured alcohol and lacquer thinner for stripping old finishes so you wouldn't need to identify the finish it would do both.
     

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