Asher Guitars WD Music Products Amplified Parts Mod Kits DIY Nordstarnd Pickups Warmoth.com
Asher Guitars WD Music Products Amplified Parts Mod Kits DIY Nordstarnd Pickups Warmoth.com
Asher Guitars WD Music Products Amplified Parts Mod Kits DIY Nordstarnd Pickups Warmoth.com

First time body finisher questions

Discussion in 'Finely Finished' started by Jim Sams, Jan 20, 2017.

  1. Cat MacKinnon

    Cat MacKinnon Friend of Leo's

    Nov 13, 2011
    Colorado
    Duplicolor primer is pretty good stuff, I've used it quite a few times and always like working with it. BTW, Ocean Turquoise is one of my favorite metallic colors, I like it much better than LPB! I remember watching a YT video a couple years ago of someone with a Jazzmaster in OT with matching headstock and gold anodized guard and it looked really cool.

    As far as waiting for the lacquer to dry, the answer is...it depends. Most people find 20 days long enough, although you'll still want to be a little careful when handling it (it'll be playable though, you'll just want to baby it a little more.) The thing is, you can wet-sand and buff after ten days or so but the lacquer will still need to dry at least another ten days or so, otherwise you run the risk of getting imprints from whatever you set it on. If you can find a way to support it without touching the lacquer you can buff it after 10 days, but that's still too early to do much else with it. Strat bodies are easier to do this with because you can support them on something in either the trem cavity or electronics cavity, but your body probably won't have large enough "hidden" areas to be able to do that, so I'd wait at least 20 days. I suppose if you've got a stick screwed to the neck pocket for painting you could jerry-rig something with that, but that seems like it might be...wobbly.

    You have to keep in mind that lacquer dries through evaporation, so even if the top coat seems nice and dry after a week or so, there's still a lot of paint underneath that's going to be pretty soft. Lacquer's one big drawback is that it takes a long time to dry, which is why most manufacturers switched to catalyzed finishes as they became available.
     
    DrASATele likes this.

  2. Jim Sams

    Jim Sams Tele-Holic

    539
    Apr 1, 2003
    Charlotte NC
    Everything worked pretty well.
    I am pleased with teh results even though it's not absolutely perfect.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     

  3. DrASATele

    DrASATele Poster Extraordinaire

    Jul 6, 2012
    North of Boston

  4. Jim Sams

    Jim Sams Tele-Holic

    539
    Apr 1, 2003
    Charlotte NC
    After several months, the finish is highly susceptible to dings and chips. I guess I should not have used the super hard Behlens top coat lacquer, but should have used the instrument lacquer....
    So it will be a natural relic in a few years :D
     

  5. Silverface

    Silverface Poster Extraordinaire Ad Free Member

    Age:
    65
    Mar 2, 2003
    Lawndale CA
    Sorry, caught this thread VERY late.

    FWIW you should always do a test application on scrap before ever applying a thing to the actual body. It's best to do a test of the whole system dos you'll know how the different components work...or don't work...together. Epoxies and some grain fillers are a one-way street - once they are applied you're stuck with them whether you like them or not.
     

  6. Silverface

    Silverface Poster Extraordinaire Ad Free Member

    Age:
    65
    Mar 2, 2003
    Lawndale CA
    All commercially available aerosol lacquers (except Deft, which is unusually slow drying) are very similar acrylic/nitrocellulose blends with similar hardness.

    Dings and chips commonly occur when there are adhesion or mil thickness issues. Adhesion problems occur with mixed material types (i.e. not all lacquer materials), an overly-smooth wood surface or surface contamination; overly-thick lacquer is also prone to physical damage as the flexibility of the film is reduced.
     
    Beats likes this.

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