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Asher Guitars WD Music Products Amplified Parts Mod Kits DIY Nordstarnd Pickups Warmoth.com
Asher Guitars WD Music Products Amplified Parts Mod Kits DIY Nordstarnd Pickups Warmoth.com

First time body finisher questions

Discussion in 'Finely Finished' started by Jim Sams, Jan 20, 2017.

  1. Jim Sams

    Jim Sams Tele-Holic

    539
    Apr 1, 2003
    Charlotte NC
    guys, I have built several parts caster in the past but have always bought a finished body.
    This go round I am doing a pine tele master that I am going to finish my self. I have a clear pine body that is sanded smooth but the edge radius has sort of a line on either side. I'm going to hand sand the edge radius to finish it.
    Then I'm going to harden the surface with Zpoxy finishing resin. Sand between each application. After that I'll used re ranch white primer, sand and ocean torquoise lacquer topped with clear.
    An I missing any steps? Any tips on sanding the edge radius to a consistent smooth edge? Should I Zpoxy before any sanding? Should I use de waxed shellac between the Zpoxy and the primer?
     

  2. DrASATele

    DrASATele Poster Extraordinaire

    Jul 6, 2012
    North of Boston
    Warm the Zpoxy and the body a little with a hair dyer. It will make the Zpoxy seem even thinner, water like, and it will seep into the pine. It helps a lot if you have knots or voids in the wood. You could add Mixol white pigment to the Zpoxy. It might take a few layers to get an even coating but that would mean it's also well protected and you'd only have to buy the color and clear rather than 3 different cans. Just a thought . . .
     

  3. Dunkerhook

    Dunkerhook Tele-Meister

    205
    Jul 29, 2011
    New Jersey
    Never tried the warming trick with Z-poxy. I will now. And -- I usually use the Zinsser primer shellac when I want to, uh...prime, but t will try the Mixol thing, too.

    Nifty. :) Thank you, Doctor!
     
    DrASATele likes this.

  4. Gibsonsmu

    Gibsonsmu Tele-Meister

    335
    May 7, 2015
    Texas
    Are you planning to grain fill?
     

  5. Gibsonsmu

    Gibsonsmu Tele-Meister

    335
    May 7, 2015
    Texas
    Sounds like that's what zpoxy is, never heard of it. Hopefully it is better than grain filling, I greatly dislike. I'd skip the primer if I were you - tough to get on smooth and I'd rather just do more too cost since it adds so much more time. Plus when it chips with no primer it looks cooler!
     

  6. Gibsonsmu

    Gibsonsmu Tele-Meister

    335
    May 7, 2015
    Texas
    I should add the reason primer is tough is because it's spray can. Tough to get a good coat, sputter, etc. Then you screw up and have to sand and redo. Can waste a lot of time. I've done five reranch bodies. Primed first two gave up after. Best result was last one with fiesta red and no primer
     

  7. Gibsonsmu

    Gibsonsmu Tele-Meister

    335
    May 7, 2015
    Texas

  8. Dunkerhook

    Dunkerhook Tele-Meister

    205
    Jul 29, 2011
    New Jersey
    Definitely sand before the zpoxy. If the line at the roundover is subtle, ordinary sanding will take care of it. Before anything goes on the body, I find every ding and scratch I can and fix them. The finishing process magnifies these things; it does not hide them. Then I sand to 320. Not sure if you need to do this prep, but it's worth mentioning.

    It's been a while since I used Z-poxy, but I'm pretty sure I sprayed shellac on first, then several coats of Z-poxy to seal and grain-fill, then NCL.
     
    DrASATele likes this.

  9. DrASATele

    DrASATele Poster Extraordinaire

    Jul 6, 2012
    North of Boston
    No problem, I learned my secrects from those who came before like Ron Kirn (the warming the Zpoxy/Epoxy)

    "There's more than 1 way to skin that cat" - should probably be the number 1 saying in Finely Finished.
     

  10. Jim Sams

    Jim Sams Tele-Holic

    539
    Apr 1, 2003
    Charlotte NC
    Sanded the edge radius today. Its noticible how soft the rings are between the grain.
    Stopped sanding and will Zpoxy the body before more final sanding otherwise I fear I will have dips.
     

  11. Axis29

    Axis29 Poster Extraordinaire Ad Free Member

    Jan 2, 2007
    Virginia, USA
    One thing to help with sanding pine is to use a hard block and keep the sandpaper tight to the block. (I have a tendency to grab a small block out of the scraps and wrap the paper around it) That way it cannot dip into the softer wood in the rings.
     

  12. DrASATele

    DrASATele Poster Extraordinaire

    Jul 6, 2012
    North of Boston
    It's even worse on something like Doug Fir. Doing the sanding block thing helps.
     

  13. Jim Sams

    Jim Sams Tele-Holic

    539
    Apr 1, 2003
    Charlotte NC
    I'm going to try a painted headstock also on this one. Any tips other than sand and prime?
    Finally got my Zpoxy. Will test on the back first hope for the best.
     

  14. Jim Sams

    Jim Sams Tele-Holic

    539
    Apr 1, 2003
    Charlotte NC
    OK, just did my first application of Zpoxy to the back of the body. seemed easy enough.
    How long to you guys leave it on before you scrape or wife off the excess?
    Any easy trick for holding the body so you can apply to the whole body at once?
    I guess I need to make a handle to screw into the neck pocket
     

  15. DrASATele

    DrASATele Poster Extraordinaire

    Jul 6, 2012
    North of Boston
    I like plastic putty knives. Bakers scrapers work pretty well too. it's remembering to clean those before they dry that's kind of a pain.
     

  16. Jim Sams

    Jim Sams Tele-Holic

    539
    Apr 1, 2003
    Charlotte NC
    I did use a one of the plastic putty knives along with the disposable little acid brush.
    Had to keep picking out brush hairs. So far it seems like a pretty easy but tedious task.
     

  17. Jim Sams

    Jim Sams Tele-Holic

    539
    Apr 1, 2003
    Charlotte NC
    OK, I have done three coats and I think I am done with the Zpoxy stage.
    Things I have learned that I didn't read (or remember reading):
    1.You really have a 20 minute window to do what you want with the epoxy batch. You can't keep messing with it on the body after that. After that, it won't wipe off as well.
    2. Also after brushing it into the grain with a disposable acid brush, you absolutely must use your plastic putty knife or hotel card key to scrape off the excess in the direction of the grain.
    3. after scraping, wipe it off with a series of clean paper towels also in the direction of the grain.
    Now you have have a smooth satin finish after you are done.
    On to primer next....I'm using white to sort of mimic the white fullerplast that show through on dings and wear.
    Also Zpoxy does seem to harden the pine's surface quite a bit.
     

  18. Jim Sams

    Jim Sams Tele-Holic

    539
    Apr 1, 2003
    Charlotte NC
    Ok, the reranch white primer is a bad can with very little propellant. Can I use reranch primer and duplicolor white primer on the same body?
     

  19. DrASATele

    DrASATele Poster Extraordinaire

    Jul 6, 2012
    North of Boston
    I'm not sure Jim. I haven't used Duplicolor.
    I might look for a shellac based primer but that's just my experience. (You can make one too, mixol white pigment and Zinsser seal coat/dewaxed shellac)
     

  20. Jim Sams

    Jim Sams Tele-Holic

    539
    Apr 1, 2003
    Charlotte NC
    Finally done with priming and sanding. Duplicolor Primer seems to work OK.
    Now spraying. After the first coat dried, I inspected ti again and found a flaw, back to sanding and now painting again. Ocean Turquoise is pretty awesome on a telemaster. Painting the headstock too...Waiting 30 minutes between dry coats.
    Thanks for all the help.
    BTW, Do I really need to wait 30 days to buff the Behlins hard clear lacquer top coat?
    Also the Behlens clear is way "wetter" than the reranch color.....
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2017

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