First thinline build

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by adirondak5, Oct 23, 2010.

  1. adirondak5

    adirondak5 Wood Hoarder Extraordinaire

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    Well , the jazz-caster is on its way to Phoenix , actually so is my wife , she flew out this morning to visit the kids and the grandson , I got the fretboard glued and in clamps for Big Red , so I figured with nothing else on the menu for today I would start on a thinline build , ever since I saw scubadoo's beautiful thinline thread from a while ago I just can't get it out of my head.
    I have a nice ash blank a little on the heavy side , its 14 x 22 x 1 3/4 and weighs in at a bit over 12lbs , also picked up a nice flammey bookmatched maple cap , Got white binding and the stewmac binding bit , but I might get creme binding , not sure on that,got a gfs p 90 for the neck position and I'm not sure what I will get for the bridge yet , I'm not going to put a pickguard on this , and I believe I will do double f-holes , maple neck with rosewood or bacote board , so far thats about all the plans I have , I'll come up with the rest on the way , comments and ideas are always welcome , now I'll get to what I done on this so far

    here's the blank and the maple cap

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    I made a router sled last week and thinned the blank down to 1 5/8

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    also glue up the bookmatched maple last week

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    today I cut the blank on the band saw , the line you see is a pencil line marking the center , the glue line is virtually invisible


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    sanded to the line on the R.O.S.S.

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    mounted the routing template and routed the outline

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    I use Jacks downhill routing method , I mark the body with start and stop lines and direction arrows so I dont have to keep looking at the printout

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    1st pass , nice , no tearout , 3 more passes and its routed

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    next I got the chamber template and marked the chambers on the body and hogged out what I could with a forstner bit , made alot of shavings , I set the depth stop on the drill press a 1" , that'll leave me 1/4"to route out still , the body is 1 5/8 "so I will also need to sand 1/16"off the front and back also.



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    all done with the drill press , now I put the chamber template on so I can finish them up with the router , now comes my woops moment , I had it all set to route , I set up my plunge base and had the depth stop all set up properly but I did not lower the router to the stop v, I thought I did but murphy's law kicked in , i chewed the template about 3 "long by about 1/4", now I am sounding off just like the Dad from A Christmas Story when his boiler breaks down , I could just sand the template down a bit thinner on that bottom edge , or make another from the master , or I could try to epoxy the mishap and reroute it nice with the master , thats what I did , I used the wood epoxy stick , just cut a piece off , mixed it in my fingers , stuck it on the gouge on the template , it set up in about an hour , then I clamped the master template on top of it a rerouted it , perfect , a quick. easy fix

    you can see the epoxy in the damaged area , just put it in

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    here it is re-routed

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    now back to routing the chambers

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    last thing for today , cut the maple cap , marked it with the template , cut it on the bandsaw

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    just weighed the body and cap together , 4Lbs 10 oz. , not bad , still gotta do the pup routes and neck pocket , maby I can get it at around 4lbs = - , we'll see , oh , here's a scrap of the maple cap with a little tru-oil rubbed on , this is going to really pop

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  2. kidmo

    kidmo Friend of Leo's

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    Looking fantastic so far :D Hope you go with the cream binding, I never was a big fan of white binding. Looking forward to some more pics!:D
     
  3. Motor

    Motor Tele-Holic

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    Fantastic!

    We have chosen similar materials for our next guitars. Great work so far, I will be watching with interest as this proceeds.

    Are you going with clear Tru-Oil on the top? Dyed?

    Cheers,
    Motor
     
  4. adirondak5

    adirondak5 Wood Hoarder Extraordinaire

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    Thanks kidmo , I think I will go with cream binding , its a bit warmer than white.

    Thanks Motor , when I saw your thread the other day I got motivated to get going on this , I had the wood for a while. I will probable stain the top , or at least try tinted tru-oil , I want it a little darker than I can get with just tru-oil .


    Here's a mock-up with the guitar builder , not exactly what I will end up with but close enough for a good idea

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  5. dtermined2play

    dtermined2play Tele-Afflicted

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    looking great.
     
  6. Jack Wells

    Jack Wells Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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    Looks like a beauty in the making. In time, you'll just look at the body and know which way to go "downhill".
     
  7. adirondak5

    adirondak5 Wood Hoarder Extraordinaire

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    Thanks Jack , as for the "downhill" , thats what they told me when I turned 50 a few years back , I didnt know they were talking about routing guitar bodies at the time !:lol:
     
  8. Guitarnut

    Guitarnut Friend of Leo's

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    Hey Herb.

    Looking great so far. It's going to be a very nice looking combo when you get it finished.

    Peace,
    Mark
     
  9. hackworth1

    hackworth1 Friend of Leo's Vendor Member

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    When you get to it, take care not to overwet that 3/16 inch maple with sanding sealer or any other wet finishing products. It has a tendency to warp (especially around the f-holes) if it gets overly wetted. It will cave in where the chambers do not support it.
     
  10. adirondak5

    adirondak5 Wood Hoarder Extraordinaire

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    Thanks Mark , its amazing how when your building one like you always wanted you get another build idea in your head for another that you always wanted :confused::lol:


    Thanks for the tip hackworth1 , I'll keep that in mind when I get to finishing
     
  11. guitar2005

    guitar2005 Tele-Holic

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    Where did you get the reference drawing for the "F" hole? I need one of those for my current project.
     
  12. macaroonie

    macaroonie Friend of Leo's

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  13. guitar2005

    guitar2005 Tele-Holic

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    Thanks!

    I like the Maple over Ash idea for the Thinline builds. Alder would probably make the guitar neck heavy.

    If you really want that flame maple to pop, stain it black or dark brown, sand back, then stain it a golden oak. Should be killer!
     
  14. Gregmw

    Gregmw Tele-Meister

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    This is looking great.I love the top.

    You guys make it all look too easy.

    I'll be following this with interest !

    Cheers

    Greg
     
  15. adirondak5

    adirondak5 Wood Hoarder Extraordinaire

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    Thanks for posting that pdf macaroonie , I made my working f-hole template from a set of Ron Kirn thinline templates I have


    I'm pretty sure I am going to use a stain or tint before clear on the top , just not exactly sure what , just yet .


    Hey Greg , it looks easy because I.m not showing all the screwups :p ,but , what makes it a lot easier is all the threads here and posts , alot of info here , and alot of very knowledgable builders (myself excluded)
     
  16. adirondak5

    adirondak5 Wood Hoarder Extraordinaire

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    Today I got the top glued on , I had a longer piece of scrap from the body blank so I ran one edge through the jointer and put sticky back 120 grit on it and used it to block sand the front of the body , I also sanded the sides and back , the cap got sanded also , I have the body at exactly 1.5 inches the cap at .270 , so I have a touch left to sand , I used some of my 3/4"mdf templates as clamping board so as not to dent or mark the body and cap

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    getting ready to glue

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    applied the old titebond and spread with a plastic squeegee , put toothpicks in the template screw holes on the body to line up the top , also my top clamp board(body template for this build) will line up with these holes also so I'll put two screws in also in addition to the clamps

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    here it is all clamped up , probably didn't need to use all my clamps but I did anyway

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    I wiped off most of the dripping glue from the sides with a damp rag , so she'll sit in clamps until tomorrow
     
  17. adirondak5

    adirondak5 Wood Hoarder Extraordinaire

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    Took her out of the clamps this morning , nice and flat , no marks , all is good , weighed her again , after the sanding and trimming of the cap , its down to 4lbs 1.2 oz , still need to route the cap and the neck pocket and pups , should end up around 3.5 lbs + or - , that's about what I was hoping for , looking at approx. 6.5 lbs when finished.

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  18. adirondak5

    adirondak5 Wood Hoarder Extraordinaire

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    Messed around with some scraps and mixol tints and grainfiller , took a piece of ash scrap and some of the Timbermate grainfiller , added some mixol #3 brown and mixed up and tried it out

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    This stuff dries pretty fast , sanded off well , hardly any darker coloration of the grain , but it filled the pores pretty good , probably going to have to stain a bit and sand back and then grainfill to get what I want

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    on to the maple cap , took a scrap of the cap and some laquer thinner , added a few drops of mixol #2 brown , a few drops of #4 oxide red and a few drops of #6 maize yellow , here's what it looked like

    before

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    after

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    I dont care for the way this looks , its just blah , back to the mixing , this time I used #6 maize yellow and #4 oxide red , here is what that looks like

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    here's both together

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    here's a bigger piece with the second mix

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    here it is with a few coats of rattlecan clear on it

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    I like the second mix a lot , I think that's what I am going to use on the cap , as for the ash sides and back , here is second try , I dyed with mixol 3 & 4 , brown and oxide red mixed with laquer thinner , a pretty dark mix , when that dried I sanded back , then I used the Timbermate grainfiller again tinted about the same as the stain , when that dried I sanded off and sprayed a couple coats of rattlecan clear , I think I like this

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    Last edited: Oct 25, 2010
  19. macaroonie

    macaroonie Friend of Leo's

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  20. dtermined2play

    dtermined2play Tele-Afflicted

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    That Grain really pops.
     
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