Finished wrapping my first cabinet build with Tolex yesterday. Used hot hide glue which had a bit of a learning curve but once I figured it out it performed great. The procedures I found online for wrapping using contact cement (water or solvent based) would not have worked with hide glue. The cabinet is pine with 1/2" finger jointing at corners. Joints were done on a table saw using a dado blade. It took some experimenting to get the fit right. Attention to details on dimensions, squareness and clearances of panels and baffle to account for tolex/grill cloth paid dividends. The tolex came flat rolled which gave it a venetian blind appearance un-rolled (wavy). A day in the sun with weights at the corners/edges flattended it out sufficiently. I stained the inside of the cabinet with mixed results. I used water based stain from General Finishes (Antique Cherry). If your going to stain the inside I recommend you mask and stain the wood before assembling. Use a precondition meant for the stain you use. I used water based because I didn't want the oils from the stain preventing adhesion of the hide glue later. I stained after assembly and it was a headache. If you stain after assembly at least stain before installing cleats so there isn't as many corners, nooks and crannies to contend with. When installing cleats I also recommend only gluing. I used oak for the cleats. When I did the baffle board cleats I positioned them properly with glue and set them in place with a brad nail gun. The nail gun however moved things ever so slightly. I skipped the nails for the second set of cleats and would not use the nails in the future. I located and drilled all holes for mounting hardware (handle, chassis straps, feet etc) before applying tolex. Test fit everything. For instance my chassis straps were off by a 1/2 inch to the rear.... not sure how it happened. I was able to fill the holes with dowels and redrill. To put the grill cloth on the painted baffle I followed uncle Dougs procedure. Position the baffle on the cloth and clamp it down with a caul. Use an electric staple gun. There will be less movement and more precise seating of the staples. I wrapped the top edge over. Sides and bottom were side stapled and cut flush. I didn't want to sandwhich grill cloth in between the cleat and baffle. Set the staples in the grill cloth using a nail set so they won't cut the tolex on assembly I cut the tolex to size using my wifes fabric cutting mat and single edge razor blades to keep everything nice and square and exact. First rough cut from larger sheet leaving enough extra to precisely square and and cut to size. Careful measurements insured a good fit. Here is a link to the mat. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B7K9UI/?tag=tdpri-20 I used a wax warmer off of amazon to heat the hide glue. Hide glue was behlens also off of amazon. Mixed 1 part glue to 2 parts water by volume. Heated to 145-155. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NPEDPPK/?tag=tdpri-20 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003AYTJSC/?tag=tdpri-20 I applied tolex first to the back panel pieces to work out how it was going to behave. To apply I found the easiest method was to lay the tolex down on a flat surface and place the panel to be covered on top of it. I used a clear lexan straight edge that was part of the fabric cutting kit to square everything up. Once I was satisfied with the position I clamped durablock sanding blocks to the table top over the tolex to block out the position. I then removed the panel and spread glue over the portion that was in contact with the first flat surface. Working quickly and using a good amount of glue is key. Not enough and it will gel too quickly and not adhere. Too much time and it will gel and not adhere properly. Then just place the panel back on the tolex and move back and forth length wise in small movements to rub the glue joint. Once initially tacked in position, unclamp the blocks and flip the panel over. Use one of the blocks or a roller to push excess glue out towards the edges. Clean up any squeeze out with warm water and a towel or spread it over the tolex edge to reactivate later with fresh glue. 5-10 minutes without movement and then start making relief cuts to be able to fold over the edges. Work one edge at a time in the same manner. Apply glue, fold, push flat and pull excess glue out of the joint, Clean up, clamp using cauls and allow to gel up properly before moving to the next edge. Leave corners for last. I did the bottom corners first starting in the back to cut my teeth on the technique before moving on the to the more visible top corners. Here is the finished Product Other things that I figured out a little too late.... I drilled the baffle mounting holes last night after doing the tolex. I'm not sure that this was a mistake so much as a frustration. My baffle fits tight. It is difficult to put it in and take it out which had to be done a few times. You can't drill from the back. I removed the baffle and drilled the cleats. Put the baffle back in mark the location through the holes in the cleats, remove the baffle, drill it and put it back in for final assembly. This in an out frayed some of the grill cloth but the strands visible from the front trimmed out okay. When making the back panels I didn't pay attention to the face grain direction. I figured it was plywood and I was pretty safe from warp. I was wrong. My panels had face grain running vertical. The bottom panel bowed and last night after putting tolex on I decided to glue a 1/2" ply wood brace on the inside to flatten it. It could have been avoided by running the face grain horizontal to prevent the warp.