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Finishing Roasted Maple headstock for decal

Discussion in 'Finely Finished' started by Jsil13, Aug 18, 2017.

  1. Jsil13

    Jsil13 Tele-Meister

    Age:
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    195
    Feb 14, 2017
    Boston, MA
    So I just received my warmoth roasted maple/pau Ferro neck and I'm getting it ready to apply my waterslide decal. I've sprayed 3 coats of clear shellac and I'm getting a bit of orange peel. I'm wondering if I need to and it smoother to apply the decal? My plan was apply the decal, mist two more coats of shellac, and then bury it in lacquer. IMG_0454.JPG
     

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  2. Jsil13

    Jsil13 Tele-Meister

    Age:
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    195
    Feb 14, 2017
    Boston, MA

  3. TRexF16

    TRexF16 Friend of Leo's

    Apr 4, 2011
    Tucson
    Short version - I always level sand and polish the surface I am about to apply a decal to.

    Just my opinion, but I don't think you needed any of the shellac unless it was for tint, or also unless there was any kind of residual pre-finish on the neck you thought might be incompatible with the lacquer. I see the rest of the headstock is masked off - why is that? Will all the maple part of your neck eventually (or already?) get shellac and then lacquer? I know you had to mask off the fretboard - just wondering about the edges of the headstock.
    I have used shellac to tint or "pop" the flame in a neck over bare maple (usually just wiped on) followed by lacquer with no problems but have never encased my decal in shellac before burying in lacquer. So, with that long preamble:

    I would sand your shellac flat on the headstock and shoot a couple coats of your lacquer over it, then sand an polish the spot where your decal is going to go, apply the decal, mist a couple very light coats of lacquer over the decal, with several hours drying between each, than proceed burying it in several more coats.

    If you are planning to finish the rest of the neck in lacquer, I'd go ahead and remove the masking from the current point on out, and then when you get to the "burying" part, you can get your coats on the whole neck, if you like, but there may be much I don't understand about how you are finishing the whole neck so fill us in on that and we can give better answers.

    Cheers,
    Rex
     
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  4. Jsil13

    Jsil13 Tele-Meister

    Age:
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    Feb 14, 2017
    Boston, MA
    Didn't get a notification for this reply for some reason. The plan is to just finish the face of the headstock and burnish the rest of the neck. Since roasted maple doesn't need a finish I've read several threads about sanding it up to 2000 to get a gloss look but a smooth satin feel. So that's what I was aiming to do.
    I had read that shooting lacquer directly onto the decal can mess it up. Over on the Warmoth forum and here I had read that you can shoot shellac onto the headstock, sand, apply the decal, two mist coats of shellac, and then you can bury it in lacquer. So that's the approach that I went with.
    Thanks for the reply man. I actually sanded the shellac smooth and applied the decal this morning. I was pretty nervous about ruining the decal, but thanks to guys like you it went on really smooth.
     

  5. poolshark

    poolshark Tele-Holic

    520
    Mar 20, 2011
    Tallahassee
    Shouldn't be any issues applying lacquer over a decal. I do it at least semi-regularly. The only thing to watch out for is spraying too heavy, which might 'float' the decal off the face of the headstock or, depending on the decal, cause the ink to run. Shellac will do the same, though. That's why you spray light coats initially.
     
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  6. Jsil13

    Jsil13 Tele-Meister

    Age:
    34
    195
    Feb 14, 2017
    Boston, MA
    Thanks man. I figured I'd play it safe with the shellac. This forum is great, but there are always so many different opinions on everything. I have read that a lot of people do really light misting coats of lacquer over their decals, but the I've also read that some people that did that caused their decals to wrinkle or melt the lettering. Maybe the way I'm going about it is a little paranoid. Haha. I'm letting the decal dry overnight and tomorrow I'll shoot the mist coats of shellac and let that dry overnight before I start hitting it with the lacquer. This is obviously my first attempt at this, so we'll see how it goes. I still have an extra decal in case I need to start over. Thank you for the input, it's much appreciated.
     
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  7. Old Tele man

    Old Tele man Tele-Afflicted

    May 10, 2017
    Tucson, AZ
    The smoother the UNDER coats are, the smoother the TOP coats will be...without needing excessive sanding/leveling work.
     
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  8. Silverface

    Silverface Poster Extraordinaire Ad Free Member

    Age:
    65
    Mar 2, 2003
    Lawndale CA
    I would. It can be difficult to get a decal to lay out without bubbles on a rough surface.

    He said he was using shellac.

    Is it a commercial decal or an inkjet print? There's a big difference in thickness and compatibility with finishes. If inkjet is it coated, and if so - with what?

    If you bought it were you told it's compatible with shellac (purchased decals can be almost anything - ink, laser, commercial production)? If you don't have you tested part of it on scrap?

    There's no way to properly advise you based on the information given.
     

  9. Jsil13

    Jsil13 Tele-Meister

    Age:
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    195
    Feb 14, 2017
    Boston, MA
    It's a laser jet that I bought off of reverb. The instructions said if I wanted to make it permanent I could use acrylic or lacquer. I read a bunch on the warmoth forum about sealing the wood with shellac before throwing the decal on. I've read numerous threads here and there about misting coats of either shellac or lacquer to seal the decal before burying it in lacquer. I had been planning on just misting two light coats of shellac and letting it dry for a day before I did the lacquer. Mainly because I've read some horror stories about what lacquer can do to decals. I already have both, I just don't want to screw up this one since I have it on there looking pretty good already.
     

  10. El Tele Lobo

    El Tele Lobo Tele-Afflicted

    Oct 21, 2014
    Florida
    I feel you. When I was looking to do my first project with Tru oil, there were so many different opinions that finally I just went for it. Sometimes you just have to get started and learn on your own. Not that anyone here would intentionally mislead you or me... It's just that people have different experiences and sometimes when they all start sharing them it can get pretty confusing for a noob.
     
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  11. El Tele Lobo

    El Tele Lobo Tele-Afflicted

    Oct 21, 2014
    Florida
    Oh, and as we commonly say around here... Pictures or it didn't happen.
     
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  12. Jsil13

    Jsil13 Tele-Meister

    Age:
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    Feb 14, 2017
    Boston, MA
    FullSizeRender (1).jpg Here's the body it's going on to. It's my first attempt at finishing and it came out pretty good, but definitely not perfect. I'm working on another of the same body in surf green right now, and it's coming out a lot better. This one is coral with a 52 bridge pickup, a mojo uk humbucker sized goldfoil, Rutters saddles on the way, cts pots and switch, electrosocket, and all that.
    20914488_10213930018988461_9098020050864965902_n.jpg
     

  13. 61fury

    61fury Tele-Afflicted

    Aug 28, 2009
    knoxville, TN
    Love that , nice merging of all those influences, really unique and harmonious.
     
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  14. Jsil13

    Jsil13 Tele-Meister

    Age:
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    195
    Feb 14, 2017
    Boston, MA
    Thank you. I appreciate it. These are my first attempts at finishing, but I'm really enjoying it. My next step is to design and build my own body shape. Haha. But that's a ways away.
     

  15. El Tele Lobo

    El Tele Lobo Tele-Afflicted

    Oct 21, 2014
    Florida
    Sweet!
     
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  16. Silverface

    Silverface Poster Extraordinaire Ad Free Member

    Age:
    65
    Mar 2, 2003
    Lawndale CA
    FWIW I always seal laser and freshly-printed inkjet decals by misting several coats of lacquer. Never had a single failure in a few decades of doing it. You're probably safe with shellac over a laser-print decal, but for future reference I would suggest testing shellac if you want to use it over an inkjet decal. Shellac is water soluble and some types have very small amounts of water in them - I'd be concerned about possible ink bleed, hence testing (of course it's problematic if you just have one decal with no extra ink printed area...)
     
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  17. The Ballzz

    The Ballzz Tele-Holic

    Age:
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    Apr 11, 2016
    Las Vegas, NV
    Is the shellac "DE-WAXED" as I've been led to believe that if not, it can mess with the lacquer on top of it. FWIW, given that the only area getting any finish is the face of the headstock, why not simply leave it shellac and not even bother with the lacquer? Finish "burying" the decal, level sand, polish and call it a day. It's not like the headstock face is going to see much heavy handling/usage/abrasion.
    Just My $.02,
    Gene
     
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  18. Jsil13

    Jsil13 Tele-Meister

    Age:
    34
    195
    Feb 14, 2017
    Boston, MA
    I want to start making my own decals eventually too. Which means they'll be inkjet printed. I'll definitely keep this in mind. Thank you Silverface. Cheers man.
     
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  19. Jsil13

    Jsil13 Tele-Meister

    Age:
    34
    195
    Feb 14, 2017
    Boston, MA
    It is de-waxed shellac. So far I haven't run into any issues with the lacquer on top of it. I'm still just doing light coats. I guess I could have just used shellac, but I had read a few roasted maple threads on the Warmoth forum about doing it this way. So I figured I'd give it a shot.
     

  20. AngelDeville

    AngelDeville Tele-Afflicted

    Age:
    106
    Dec 27, 2007
    Albuquerque
    I put the decal on 1000 grit sanded wood, then shellac it.
     
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