CS 356ish build

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by 1bad914, Apr 11, 2019.

  1. 1bad914

    1bad914 Tele-Meister

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    Be prepared, it makes a lot of wood chips. This is with some dust collection. That is one full pass. I did two full passes on the first side and then flipped it over, wedged it in and did 4 more full passes to get it to the right thickness 7A359DDF-416E-493A-9940-B62D43571E04.jpeg 9918314D-A0DE-4311-A675-8C7D55C9F9D1.jpeg
     
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  2. 1bad914

    1bad914 Tele-Meister

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    5AD2CC81-F2D7-4240-8FEF-AE36CA991B54.jpeg BA859899-6CE2-4FB6-93FC-8B5C746F9AB0.jpeg You can see where the bit went across the wood, but that is just a shadow. You cannot even feel it with your hand. I cut pushing out and coming back. I have had no issues with tear out. I an eighth to 3/16 per pass. Push it out move the sled, pull it back. If you try it you will get a feel for it. Use a good 1/2 flat cut bit.
     
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  3. 1bad914

    1bad914 Tele-Meister

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    CBDDCD96-D27A-46B6-9675-3A76ABE34738.jpeg The end result after abou 2 minutes with sander and solvent to pop the grain.
     
  4. Treadplatedual

    Treadplatedual Tele-Meister

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    Nope, keep right on. Mayhaps we'll learn something we missed :D
     
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  5. Macrogats

    Macrogats Tele-Afflicted

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    Great stuff so far. I built a router sled over the past Summer and actually find it quite therapeutic running back and forth flattening pieces of wood. :p
     
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  6. 1bad914

    1bad914 Tele-Meister

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    I absolutely agree.
     
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  7. 1bad914

    1bad914 Tele-Meister

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    Have not done much recently due to being under the weather. I did screw the template to the mahogany, then traced the template onto the wood. I will then cut as close to the line as I can with a bandsaw. You can use a jigsaw also, but be careful with blade deflection on corners with the jigsaw. I like to use drill bits to cut in the tight curves like inside the horns.
    59A556E0-81A4-4537-BA10-B763DDE4D6A5.jpeg 2BCF13CA-4A29-4B1E-B324-C462F2D28E7D.jpeg 71D9443A-81F3-4958-989F-6370B4A0AE6B.jpeg
     
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  8. 1bad914

    1bad914 Tele-Meister

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    CC0CFC03-E577-4AAB-AA37-993DFA97466C.jpeg
     
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  9. kkphoto

    kkphoto TDPRI Member

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  10. Dodecadon

    Dodecadon TDPRI Member

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    Doing it too!

    Envoyé de mon Redmi 3S en utilisant Tapatalk
     
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  11. 1bad914

    1bad914 Tele-Meister

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    It has been awhile since I posted in this thread. My very accomplished acoustic builder friend has offered his assistance and shop to build my first acoustic. I visited him today and we divided in Gibson D-45 made entirely of mahogany. He has one and I love the sound. I start tomorrow. Using his Fox bender to bend the sides. Very excited about this. We selected the sides today. I will get back to this soon, as the sides need to dry in the filing for a week.
     
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  12. 1bad914

    1bad914 Tele-Meister

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    Big change. The “mahogany “ I was using for this is more than likely Sapele. Much harder and heavier. Not what I want to use. So a grabbed a piece of Honduran mahogany and worked it to the same spot I was with the other wood. It is not quite as cool looking, but will be easier to work with and be much lighter. BC99255B-C70A-4A0C-9642-2C18468E1438.jpeg 11DC97C4-B404-4393-8F62-8A3113EB65AD.jpeg
     
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  13. 1bad914

    1bad914 Tele-Meister

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    I will most likely still finish the Sapele based one, but not for awhile.
     
  14. clayville

    clayville TDPRI Member

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    Parachuting in to add two cents from a CS-356 owner: I'm not a builder, but am the original owner of a 2003 CS-356. I've followed the details of the model since the beginning. None of this may matter one wit, but a couple of things I can point out about these that vary from those plans and may give you something to ponder if it isn't too late. The inner route of the back follows the contour of the outside dish of the back on CS-356's. It's curved/dished inside. On the vaguely similar Johnny A model the inside route is flat - no idea whether that data matters as to sound, but there it is. There's also a wiring channel routed diagonally into the 'center block area' for the neck pickup wires to travel from the knobs more easily.

    Also (from monitoring years of player discussion of this model): the CS-356 has a neck heel strap pin location, and some folks find that to be awkward. They have moved the pin to the bass-side horn (a modest player belly can tilt the guitar forward into an uncomfortable playing position). The thinness of the side walls around the horn in your plans make that potentially problematic for security, and you *might* want to leave a bit more wood inside at the top of the horn to hold a strap button screw better - a bit like the tail pin area on your plans. I'm pretty sure Gibson does. I don't think it would negatively impact the resonance or sound of the guitar, but who knows?

    Many owners of these wish there was a back plate under the knobs as on an LP for easier access to the pots, caps, etc rather than having to fish the wiring out through the f-holes or the pickup route. The Paul Jackson Jr. model and (I think) the older ES-356 with the straight pull neck and wider horns had it - not sure why the CS-356 doesn't but it can be a pita if you like to change things around.

    'Hope that's slightly useful... good luck!
     
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  15. clayville

    clayville TDPRI Member

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  16. 1bad914

    1bad914 Tele-Meister

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    Thank you much for the input. Based on research I had decided to route the center block out at the pickup for ease of access. Good idea on the strap button, I will modify the templates to accomplish both of these things. I did think about hogging out the inside of the back, not sure I will yet. Game time decision.
     
  17. clayville

    clayville TDPRI Member

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  18. 1bad914

    1bad914 Tele-Meister

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    Thank you for the pictures.
     
  19. 1bad914

    1bad914 Tele-Meister

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    I had some time tonight so I cut out the body with the bandsaw. It bothered me that the Sapele one was just sitting there so I cut them both out. Now I am building two. I get as close to the line as I can then use the OSS to get even closer. The less you rout off the better. If you look at the one on the right you can see the outline for the inner template and the small holes I drilled in the edges for the guide pins 416DBDB3-F381-45DE-9C83-26A86C3ACBFD.jpeg
     
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  20. 1bad914

    1bad914 Tele-Meister

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    The next step is to route it down to the template size. I use a template bit. Screw the template on and flip it over. Take a small amount each time. Minimum depth changes. 643FF8E1-FEA2-4A65-9A1D-5B0BEF0B368D.jpeg BF28B6BC-2996-44AE-B064-AB09940554F7.jpeg
     
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