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'Cloning' a 21" Dano Pro

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by Olav, Feb 15, 2011.

  1. udimet720

    udimet720 Tele-Holic

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    Olav, it looks great. But, I do think it is too tall.

    As for anchoring, I would use both of the washers you sketched and machine screws that extend all the way through the body. You can clamp much better and it will never be inclined to move on you. You could also add some "texture" to the underside so that it grips the body. Not sure how you might want to. But, just something to help it sink in.

    One other thought... Will the short scale length have an effect on the intonation? I'm wondering if you might want to do a test with a fully adjustable bridge and your neck mounted to a 2x4 or something. This would give you a good idea of the angle you want on your "simple compensated" bridge.
     
  2. crazydave911

    crazydave911 Poster Extraordinaire

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    BINGO! It makes it VERY sensitive to adjustment.My Mini-Strat (22 3/4" scale) has a fully adjustable, hardtail bridge and can take as little as 1/8 turn on the saddle screws to get in/out of intonation during a string change.Growing up I gave my son a little "Mini-Vee" electric,20" scale.It too has a fully adjustable hardtail bridge (that can follow fingerboard radius BTW, unlike a straight bridge).That little sucker became the bane of my existence.I used various string gages and tunings (settled on 10-46,tuned up to A) before that thing would stay tuned from one day to the next.If you'll notice, no truly short-scale (20" and below) uses a solid bridge as a matter of course (violins,mandolins,etc).They have tailpieces & bridges, fine tuners,18 to 1 geared tuners or pegs,all sorts of things just to keep tuning stable.
    Me? I'd stop off by the hardware store,drop about 15$ and come home with enough stuff to make a basket of these :)

    Dave
     

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  3. oigun

    oigun Tele-Afflicted

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    Hee you build the Golden Gate?:mrgreen:
    When all the ships have passed, LOWER THE BRIDGE!!
    OK serious:did you worked out that height with the neck in the pocket?
    [​IMG]
    I think you can figure out the intonation before you install the bridge with a temporally tail-piece and a scrap-bridge. Draw a line where the bridge is gonna be and than screw on the real thing. It looks like the original don't have any slots to intonate, that's an invention from the later years when the hi-tech rosewood strip comes in play:mrgreen:
    [​IMG]
     
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  5. Olav

    Olav Tele-Afflicted

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    Jeepers Oi, is that how it works? :p
    I haven't even cut the neckpocket yet, was just trying to figure out how that bridge stuff would work.
    [​IMG]
    probably still looks huge in the pics, I ensure you it's not.

    This way I can lower the saddle height by tapping the back of it, thus changing the angle. Around 20mm is as good a point to start as any.

    [​IMG]

    This afternoon I started radiussing the fretboard, fretslotting jig doubles as a radius sanding jig (triples as a truss channel routing jig). 12" on this.

    [​IMG]

    Thanks for the tips Dave and David. O and Dave... You do have that 1 saddled sliding adjusto-bridge patented right?
     
    Last edited: Feb 17, 2011
  6. udimet720

    udimet720 Tele-Holic

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    Actually, that does look a lot better.

    Now, how are you going to get the bend in the sheet metal to match the FB radius?

    :eek:
     
  7. Olav

    Olav Tele-Afflicted

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    Enjoying yourself are you David? ;)

    I hadn't thought radius sanding would be so much work. Never done that before. What grid paper do you seasoned tdpri-ers normally use? I'm thinking using 40 next time I do a RW board. Impatient much? :rolleyes:
     
  8. jkingma

    jkingma Super Moderator Staff Member

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    I use 80 grit "no load" paper on a short radius block and can sand a 12" radius in about 15 minutes.

    [​IMG]
     
  9. Olav

    Olav Tele-Afflicted

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    No load? Is that paper that doesn't get clogged up with the rosewood dust? That's the issue I'm dealing with I think. 15 minutes? It's been 45 and I ain't done...
     
  10. jkingma

    jkingma Super Moderator Staff Member

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  11. oigun

    oigun Tele-Afflicted

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    Bought one of these:

    [​IMG]

    Still have to make a raduisboardattachmentblock :mrgreen:
     
  12. Olav

    Olav Tele-Afflicted

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  13. oigun

    oigun Tele-Afflicted

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    Hee John and Olav, did you see my avatar? Can I play with you now pleeeese!
     
  14. Olav

    Olav Tele-Afflicted

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  15. Olav

    Olav Tele-Afflicted

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    [​IMG]
    are those candies? did you bring enough for everyone?

    How about this for an avatar?
    [​IMG]



    suits you sir, ooh, suits you
    [​IMG]
     
  16. jkingma

    jkingma Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Herman says, You'll have to do better than that... ;)
     
  17. crazydave911

    crazydave911 Poster Extraordinaire

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    Glad to be of what limited help I can,and no patent on the bridge :).Not even my idea.I remembered seeing something like it a long time ago, seems like on an Eko or some such.Just remember it was foreign and not Japanese.I just adapted the idea to fit the situation.A little time and MSpaint can design anything :D.Given enough time I can over think anything ;)

    BTW, the "package" is in transit,

    Dave
     
  18. udimet720

    udimet720 Tele-Holic

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    Olav, I wanted to ask you. How are you bending the metal for the bridge? If you have any ability to find a sheet metal bending machine it makes work like this a lot easier and faster. You can get your angles very precise. I know over here, many universities have machine shops.

    If I recall from my college days, you bend about 2deg past the angle you want to allow for spring back. But, a little experimentation and you will easily get the hang of it.

    Here's one example.
    http://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-bench-top-shear-brake-90757.html
    [​IMG]
     
  19. Olav

    Olav Tele-Afflicted

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    Thanks David, I use my bench vise and a carpenter's hammer

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    and some assorted pieces of hardwood to avoid marking and rather unsuccesfully hammer in the 12" radius, also a steel 'chisel' (dunno what else to call it) to straighten out dents and marks.

    [​IMG]

    I had been looking at one of these, but at €139 that's a bit rich to be producing 1 bridge... Haven't found a workshop that has one yet.
     
  20. Olav

    Olav Tele-Afflicted

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  21. jkingma

    jkingma Super Moderator Staff Member

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    I think you mounted your tuners on the wrong side of the headstock...

    :p

    :mrgreen:

    ;)
     
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