If you're a maker, or just looking to take a chance for fun, they're fine. I have made one kit with a cheap neck (one that would sell for $35) and one parts-strat out of a licensed bubinga neck. The cheap neck needed fretwork (they probably all do), and the neck fingerboard was very clearly laminated instead of solid, but laminated like a bamboo floor in thin strips rather than like plywood. I used the dust the neck itself to burnish any visual evidence of the laminations away. I am a starting builder, so the screwing around wasn't much more than it would have been with anything else, and the neck has been stable and plays great. In feel with the attention that I gave the neck, it's as good as any other maple neck that I've played because: * the neck profile is comfortable * the frets are a size that I like * I gave the ends the attention they should have and beveled the edge of the fingerboard * despite the fingerboard being made of some kind of dymondwood-ish material, it seems to be stable and you can't see visually that it's laminated at all. The feel is the same as any solid rosewood board, but without any significant pores. The frets on my bubinga neck are smaller and I like the profile less (even though I already flattened it out some - it was full vintage baseball bat to start). at some point, I'll take it back off of the guitar and rework the profile, but I don't anticipate I'll like it (it was about $225) as much as the $35 neck (no matter what) because of the little frets, and because the $35 neck has exhibited no problems now after a period of months with several weather changes. If you can visually examine the wood in the particular neck you're getting, you're safer. Just make sure it has the aspects you want (neck profile and fret size), and buy it from a place that takes returns if you're concerned.