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Discussion in 'Bad Dog Cafe' started by HotRodSteve, Mar 25, 2018.
I wouldn't use it to try and start anything.... especially not sustain running.
Lack of octane would be a real concern, when preventing detonation is paramount in a small 2 cycle engine.
Same reason ether is only to be used in dire circumstances.
thing to use is simply fresh properly mixed gasoline.
Carb cleaner is harsh on rubber seals and plastics...that is undeniable.
But using it as a fuel source is a NO NO.
I have heard about nine zillion people caution other people about never ever using gas with ethanol in it in small two-stroke power equipment, but my personal experience--since I don't find disassembling, cleaning and reassembling a little diaphragm carburetor to be any big deal--is that I go to the gas station, buy the same ethanol-containing 87-octane gas I use in our cars, mix it with whatever two-stroke oil is on sale and I keep my saw and trimmers' carbs correctly adjusted, and they just work. I have to replace fuel lines every couple of years, and once in awhile throw a repair kit in a carb.
Most of the carb work, though, is to get units running after I find them in the trash and revive them. Once I have them running it's mostly just occasional fuel line replacement.
I guess my point is, if you have any interest in working on stuff like that at all, it's worth your time to figure out how to do a carb job. A gummed carb is not a good reason to trash a saw or trimmer once you realize how simple those carbs are. If you don't know how to recognize the sounds/symptoms of rich and lean running yet, get a two-stroke nerd to show you. The real danger with these little motors is when the carb adjustments drift toward lean running with vibration...or the carb gets just gummed up enough to make it run lean, but still run well enough to cut. That can trash pistons and cylinders, which can get expensive enough to make it not worth the parts cost on a low-end saw or trimmer.
Also, if you're not familiar with Arboristsite, it's sort of the saw equivalent of TDPRI...there are a lot of two-stroke nerds there, and if you search threads there you will find at least five squillion people talking about nearly any saw made in the past 400 years. Need a recoil spring for a early 60s Homelite? Someone there will be selling one. I just bounced over there to check what a Husqvarna 137 was and immediately found a handful of threads asking questions about them. Check it out, and good luck with your carb and subsequent Nor'easter sawing tasks.
Man I tell you what, when you get that bad mama jama running again, do not use "cheap gas". Small engines hate ethanol. I'm telling you, get that 90+ gas to mix with your oil and drain it out when you know you won't be working for a while. It even says so in your owner's manual.
But to start it up after you get some new fuel, check your sparkplug. We always used to burn it with a match, then sand it down inside with some emery cloth. Check your gap.
Follow the instructions to start (my husq. Saw Says pull the choke, prime 6 times, release choke, pull, then hope for the best).
You'll get it running, just remember to use good fresh fuel
I am talking solely to diagnose a possible fuel issue...and ether is a no-no in my book.
Bah. I'm not soaking my paws in stinky varnishy gas anymore when I can Amazon an $18 brand new carb and be done with it. I've about blown an aorta yanking saws after what you guys call "simple" carb maintenance.
I cut everyday at work, and use regular gas from the pumps, no issues. At home? I never cut...my chainsaw has the ethanol free pre-mixed 50:1. If you only use it occasionally this is the way to go.
Nothing worse than yanking on an engine for hours trying to start it.
A side story- my grandfathers lawn mower wouldn't start (after my uncle let it sit with bad gas for a year). Same uncle is not engine savy or handy, but thinks he is. "The mower is garbage."
Emptied out 5 gallons of gas, cleaned the plugs, new gas in it, started first pull.
"Tom must have been messing with the lawn mower, so I couldn't start it."
Yeah maybe empty. Dad's truck had a 600 cfm air compressor with a 6-71 Detroit Diesel mounted on it all the time. Went through several 327s and other small blocks in that thing with the same guttless results, had the 4sp/2sp rearend.
He finally got a 71 Chevy with a 27 foot implement bed, 366 4sp/2sp and set the compressor on that. More weight but that 366 was a night and day difference. Way broader power band than a short stroke small block.
On the other hand put a 327 in something light and they are kinda snappy.
If you don't mind me asking,where on line did you buy your parts,I'm in need of some parts for my old Stihl weed eater I keep at camp. It runs, but not good, I'm always adjusting the air mixture screws on the carburetor to get it to run right.
As a folllow-up, this worked. But my chainsaw was so gummed up after ten years of sitting that it ran for awhile, crapped out, ran, crapped out, ran and then stopped. I probably need to rebuild the carb or replace it. But I did get around ten cuts done! Thanks Milspec! Good advice.
No, it doesn't.
I am a chemist and have been for 35 years
Times two,my Stihl 029 Farm Boss is 26 years old, and does not get used as much as it used to. I keep Sta-Bil in the gas cans for all my power equipment and have never had a problem,knock on wood. Sta-Bil has worked for me. When I take my gas cans to the station to fill them I put the Sta-Bil in them as soon as I bring them home.
Take it to a shop... Pay 75 bucks for a complete service then take care of it after that...easiest and best solution.
Then perhaps you can explain, to those of us who are not chemists, why pump fuel proves troublesome in small engines used intermittently and at least IME, ethanol-free fuel yields better results.
I think he is taking exception to the "crystallizes" portion of that statement. Ethanol doesn't crystallize. But it clearly is bad for small engines, and only a great fool would argue otherwise, and obviously the chemist is no great fool because he has studied and by studying he has learned that man is mortal and therefore he would never put the iocaine powder in his own tank.
This, as for the rest I can only speculate like the rest of you.
At least,an erroneous speculation as been removed, we are making progress
Good job you didn't let a woman use it.
<tongue very firmly in cheek after a previous thread around here>
Probably gonna do that because by the time I screw it up the local lawnmower/snowblower/chainsaw guy could fix it for less and it will run good.
After you do that, here's the advice that will keep that chainsaw (and your lawnmower, your leaf-blower) running like a top forever and ever.
a. Keep only ethanol-free gasoline in them, from here on out.
Always, in all your small engines.
Ethanol is gummy-bear death to engines.
It's horrible stuff.
Pure gasoline, ethanol-free, is what I run in my cars, trucks, and motorcycles too.
b. As others have stated, run the small engines dry of fuel, every single time.
Don't allow old gasoline to sit in the carburetor and in the fuel lines, accumulating gunk and goo.
c. During the off-seasons, pour some fresh, ethanol-free gas into them, crank them, and run 'em for a few minutes. And then run them dry and put them away for a few months.
d. Change the oil, often. It's easy and cheap, and pays dividends.
Okay, I'm going to shut up now.
e. Sea Foam. It's the ****. Use it, often.