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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by lookslikemeband, Apr 20, 2017 at 1:10 PM.
Some serious cupping.... Ideas?
No idea, but I don't see why you shouldn't try it. Encyclopedia Britannica? ;-)
Those look like a gone-er. The only chance you have to straighten them is some major steam-heating. You may get lucky with roasting and clamping, but that doesn't work every time. You probably can find a YouTube vid showing how to make a steam box, and figure out a clamping strategy.
It's way easier, and probably cheaper, to get some other boards.
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Yeah, they're definitely useless.
Send them to me.
Absolutely useless... I'll pay the shipping if you need to get rid of them.
"Cups more than an inappropriate Tailor..."
You might be able to glue them down, with some pretty hefty clamping force, on a solid substrate. They look to me like body caps, anyway. My experience with boards so badly cupped is that they WANT to be cupped like that, (bad tailor notwithstanding ), and anything you do to flatten them will gradually creep back to the cupped state. Unless they are forcibly held flat.
pre-curved radius fretboard?
Got a jointer and a planer?
I don't what you intend to use them for but if you want to use them for a top I've seen some carpenters/cabinet makers run the board over a table saw cutting multiple parallel grooves to flatten a board out. You will need to glue with very strong glue and clamp in place longer than normal.
This explains the process:
If those boards are planned for a top, is it going to be a carved top or flat. If carved, you need to retain a lot more width. If flat, 1/4" ought to be enough, even less if you're using binding. How thick are they now? They look about a half inch to 5/8 or so.
The first thing you could do to try to get them flat enough to plane would be to wet the cupped sides pretty thoroughly and see if the swelling that produces on the cupped side is enough to flatten them out. It can be a powerful force! I once left a fully dried piece of flat lumber, 3/4" thick, lying on another board that was pretty green. I found it a few days later massively cupped up away from the "green" board, just from the moisture that had been absorbed by the dry board from the wet one. If it straightens out a little from that process you might be able to clamp it flat and let it dry that way. at least maybe it will get flat enough to plane out the cup. Joint the cupped side until flat then plane it to a little over your final thickness (on both boards). Then glue up the bookmatch. Once it's down to 1/4" it should be flexible enough to be glued down to the body, even if it has a little cup still. If both sides are equally pretty, I'd glue it down with the cupped up edges to the outside. That way, the act of clamping down the edges will apply inherent down force in the middle for a good glue joint. I hope this makes sense. If it's too complicated, I'm #3 on the "just give up and send it to me" list
[EDIT: if you wet the insides of the cupped faces, you could also simply clamp the boards firmly together with the cupped faces inwards. Adjust the clamps to try to get the resulting sandwich flat as possible and wang 'er down. Let sit for a few days and loosen the clamps to check the result. Keep you eye on it in case it is so effective it starts to cup the other way!]
LOL. It's all good!
Thank you Rex! I'm going to try to save these. They're the last (and obviously worst) of a batch of tops I got a long time ago.
That looks like a great plan !!
Laminate thin drop tops?
I was given similar wood from a buddy who had started then gave up on the hobby. His were just shy of 1/2 and just shy of 3/8ths when I finally got them on to a guitar. What really stunk was the fact that they were book matched to begin, warped enough that I had to reshape the both pieces before gluing, but I made it work. Patience and time are key.
A lot of the time, this happens when one side absorbs more moisture than the other. Try wetting the side that is on the table in your picture and sticker the wood. Some weight wouldn't hurt either. It's going to be a slow process to save them, if you can.
Back ploughing. Common timber profiles with a width/thickness ratio greater than 4:1 and only one "appearance" face are almost always back ploughed (think skirting boards and timber flooring).