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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by Freekmagnet, Mar 13, 2017.
Thanks! That’s a great thread - I’m looking at it right now!
I think I finished applying epoxy today.
I basically gave it 3-4 thin coats sanded down to 600. There’s a couple of little spots that could be better and there’s a lot of sanding marks, but I think once I give it a couple coats of clear it’ll be fine. The main thing is is that the seam where it meets the stained body looks nice and crisp and the amount of “lip” is negligible. It’ll be gone within a few coats of clear.
I’m really glad I’m epoxying any more. An epoxy clear over a transparent stain is PITA. Definitely not on my list of things to do again. Thankfully, I was not plagued by any major sand-throughs.
Next, I gotta clean it up and get it ready for painting. There’s a few spots where the epoxy went where it shouldn’t have. Namely, I got some build up in the sound hole, so I may have to take a file or an XActo to it. I’m also going to give the front of the binding a slight pre-bevel before I paint it. That way I can see where the edges are when I scrape the color off. Once I do that, I’ll give it a gentle roundover. A couple spots got kinda thin along the way, but it’s nothibg serious. It’ll look as good as any Epiphone I’ve seen. Next time I may start with a thicker binding.
OK imagine a pale blue guitar body - like sonic blue.
Sprayed gold pickguard or sprayed silver? Or do I chump out and do a white guard?
Not feeling pearloid and tortoise won’t match the white binding.
Tomorrow morning, I’m going to scrape the binding. I’m going to let the color cure for a few days before I clear coat it.
I hope this finish works out also I think a gold half guard would look great on this blue
Thx. I think it’ll be fine. That General Finishes Milk Paint is pretty hard stuff.
Light gold would be pretty cool. Somebody on another forum suggested a brushed aluminum PG. I’m toying with that idea, too.
I’ve been away for a bit, but still remember the start of this thread.
Any updates on this baby??
I’m sure she’s had time to cure now
Ugh, yes but it’s not very exciting. I gave the bass a few coats with ProFinisher and the clear coats on back fogged up really badly. I had to sand the back all the way down.
I re-sealed it last night and I should be hitting it with a new color coat tonight. I’m going to try spraying the dye over the sealed wood and see how that works. I seem to remember doing so before and having pretty good results.
Fortunately, the front seems to look OK.
I’ve had pretty much a 0% success rate using ProFinisher which is surprising; I’ve seen guys get really good results with the stuff. In the meantime I have to figure out what I’m going to use to finish this bass.
On a tangentially related note, I wanted to try making a Ceramic 8 version of my sidewinder pickup, so I cut down these magnets using a Dremel diamond cutting bit. I don’t recommend doing this at home.
Anyway, the pickup sounded great! I like the neo-driven pickup I made, but I feel that with the fairly primitive 2-Band I have, I’m not getting the most out of it. The ceramics have more of a natural thump to them on their own, whereas the neos are more “full range” have lots of bass, middle and treble. I don’t know if that makes sense.
I’m pricing getting some magnets fabricated to spec and they’re running about $4 each for like 50 of them. I have some equipment I wanted to unload, so maybe that will cover the cost.
In addition, I found this schematic and I’m going to build and test this preamp. It looks pretty cool - basically it’s a bass pre with a modified Big Muff tone stack, which would bring my knob count down to two! We’ll see how that goes.
I need to learn a little more about electronics. I’ve built a few stompboxes, but I really don’t understand how electronics actually work. I’ve ordered a couple of Craig Anderton books to kind of get me started.
Well I like relics so the back of that bass looks awesome to me as-is!
But I feel you! When something goes wrong with a build it’s both a heart and a ball ache!
Good luck with the magnets and pre amp... that’s way beyond my current level of experience... but maybe constructing a stomp box or two would be fun!
Yeah, relicing has its place for sure. However, there’s a big difference between “reliced” and “lousy finish”. A fogged clear coat definitely falls under the latter category. Besides for this prototype, I’d really just like to get a “finish”. Maybe a few builds down the road, and as this design gets a little more developed, I’ll try a relic version.
I’d recommend at least building one stompbox kit in your life. Electronics isn’t for everyone - and it’s definitely not my strong suit, but now that I’m invested in designing a bass, I making a slight effort to learn a little more about how circuits are constructed.
All things considered, my recovery wasn’t bad.
Naturally, the original coat of brown dye was pretty much embedded in the wood after I sanded it down. I thought, “Hey, that’s kinda cool!”, so I lightened my original mix of dye with a little yellow so some of that newly-enhanced grain was more visible. I sealed it with Seal Coat.
I like how it looks, but it’s not perfect. In fact there’s some parts that are pretty terrible. For instance, there’s a big black streak in the wood around the upper horn, but hey - it’s poplar.
Next, I’m going to try the Minwax Oil-Modified WaterBased Polyurethane.
They had the “NEW” WB Varathane at HD. Does anyone know what that’s all about?
Oh yes I get the difference between a relic and a poor finish... they’re not interchangeable...
I love how this has turned out thou! Really nice difference in wood colours, looks quite natural too
Nice approach with the yellowed dye...
OK, no picture this time, but I have a new quandary maybe you guys can help me with.
I'm about to spray the back with Minwax Oil-Modified WB Polyurethane. Supposedly it has a slight amber tint. Do I mask the white binding or no?
If I mask the binding it will be white. If I don't mask, I am assuming it will be off-white - however I will have less of a lip or seam where the binding meets with the wood. I'm OK with off-white, but I think white would look better with an aluminum or sprayed silver pickguard. I think a sprayed gold would look better with off-white.
Here's a pair of equasions:
Mask the binding and leave it white + Seam between wood and binding = Aluminum or Silver PG
Don't mask the binding and make it off-white + No seam between wood and binding = Sprayed Gold PG
I’m a fan of blue with silver/chrome/steel (cold metals) rather than blue with gold/copper/bronze (warm metals) so my vote is for masking the binding and going with aluminium/silver pick guard...