Asher Guitars WD Music Products Amplified Parts Mod Kits DIY Nordstarnd Pickups Warmoth.com
Asher Guitars WD Music Products Amplified Parts Mod Kits DIY Nordstarnd Pickups Warmoth.com
Asher Guitars WD Music Products Amplified Parts Mod Kits DIY Nordstarnd Pickups Warmoth.com

Buffing Tru-oil?

Discussion in 'Finely Finished' started by deanr22, Jun 25, 2013.

  1. Captain Nutslot

    Captain Nutslot Friend of Leo's

    May 3, 2012
    Rochester, NY
    ... in the end once my tru oil's ready I gently swing the 0000 steel wool, clean it up nice then buff it for a while with a soft pad of choice and a bit o lemon oil. wipe wipe wipe pop pop pop. :)
     

  2. OpenG Capo4

    OpenG Capo4 Friend of Leo's

    Aug 4, 2010
    Athens, GA
    This is how I do Tru Oil as well. I even mix it with lacquer thinner and spray it on. :D

    I sand it all the way to 6000 micromesh and then I go to the liquid abrasives with a hand held car buffer to polish it out. I never noticed the buffer building heat or melting the oil. You would really have to dig at it for that to happen.

    Johnson's paste wax (the stuff in the yellow can) is the last step. Really brings out the shine.
     

  3. flyingbanana

    flyingbanana Poster Extraordinaire

    Tru Oil polishes up just like a painted finish once it's cured. Apply 10 to 15 coats, wet sand and graduate to polishes. A deep gloss is very achieveable.
     

  4. cap217

    cap217 Tele-Holic

    585
    Jan 8, 2011
    Cleveland
    Does Tru-Oil accept a decal on the headstock? After how many coats should you apply a decal? And do you tru-oil over the decal after?

    How can you darken/tint tru-oil?
     

  5. OpenG Capo4

    OpenG Capo4 Friend of Leo's

    Aug 4, 2010
    Athens, GA
    I do enough tru oil to get a level finish, then apply the decal and do enough coats to bury it. It takes a lot of coats to bury it.

    As far as darkening, I tried adding some dye but it doesn't stay suspended in the oil. You will probably want to use dye to tint the wood and then do the oil over that.
     

  6. cap217

    cap217 Tele-Holic

    585
    Jan 8, 2011
    Cleveland
    What about tru oil then decal then nitro on the headstock to bury it?
     

  7. barbrainy

    barbrainy RIP

    Mar 2, 2012
    Northampton, UK
    That's similar to my method when using tru oil on a neck, after several unsatisfactory attempts to bury decals in tru oil. However, I am perfectly willing to believe it can be done, and the unsatisfactory results may well be my own fault... Anyway, I go nitro-decal-nitro, that works well for me.

    As always, YMMV
     

  8. Jfellows

    Jfellows Tele-Afflicted

    Aug 23, 2012
    Tracy, California
    I just recently did my first Tru-Oil neck, and was very pleased with the results. I also had trouble at first to bury the decal. What I found worked best for me was to get the Tru-Oil spray which allowed me to put several wet coats on over the course of a day, and then sand it back the next day until it leveled out, then repeat over a few days. I much prefer the hand-applied method for the rest of the neck and the first few coats under the decal, but the spray made it really efficient to bury the decal.

    I also wanted it a little darker than natural, and experimented with tinting the Tru-Oil and that didn't work so well. But I found that just using a little Dark Vintage Maple Transtint diluted in alcohol and wiping it on the neck first then finishing with Tru-oil was the ticket. I made a very weak mix of the Transtint - 1 drop in about 3 oz of alcohol so that I could build the color slowly to get the exact shade I wanted.
     

  9. WrayGun

    WrayGun Tele-Afflicted

    Age:
    56
    May 5, 2006
    Pittsburgh, PA
    Everyone has their own method for applying TO, but they are all pretty much the same if you think about it - a number of coats, fix any dust bumps or gnats as you go, quit when it looks nice, polish as desired. The great thing about it is that you can add as many or as few coats as needed to get the finish you want. Personally, I apply a bunch of thin coats with disposable lint-free rags, 0000 steel wool between coats to whisk off any bumps, then a couple of very careful coats with my fingers, to (hopefully) avoid making any new bumps with lint or dust or whatever. Depending on how it dries out after a week or two, maybe a light wet sand, then buff the snot out of it with some soft old denim. Apply wax of your choice, buff it off again. Looks better than any lacquer finish that I've ever done.
     

  10. cap217

    cap217 Tele-Holic

    585
    Jan 8, 2011
    Cleveland
    Does it easily come off the frets? How do you apply to a maple fretboard?
     

IMPORTANT: Treat everyone here with respect, no matter how difficult!
No sex, drug, political, religion or hate discussion permitted here.