Boothill 5F1 Build--my first

Discussion in 'Shock Brother's DIY Amps' started by dunehunter, Feb 9, 2019.

  1. dunehunter

    dunehunter Tele-Meister Double Platinum Supporter

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    So I thought I'd like the help of the many of you out there that have a) done this before and b) know a heckofa lot more about this than I do. I've been doing a lot of research along the way and have been paying attention to other builds and "living" on @robrob s website but it's finally time to begin to take the plunge.

    Some of you have seen this before, but this is the cab that it is going into. Took me a while to build (ended up building 6 more cabinets of various sizes along the way, too) but think it was worth it. 33 Cabinet w speaker front.jpg

    I can post additional pics if you want to see the side, top, etc. but it's a little off-track.

    Here is a picture of the rear, though:

    33 Cabinet w speaker Rear.jpg
    As you can see from the pic, the amp will be using an 8", 4ohm speaker from WGS--a G8C. For hardware, I've chosen a 330-0-330 from Mercury Magnetics (yeah, I know, I know...) and have also selected their output transformer.

    I've already installed the transformers and power cord to the chassis, along with the tube sockets and output jack. But nothing is soldered yet (except the speaker wire to the speaker and to the 1/4" plug, that is.

    Here is my circuit board right at the moment:

    Circuit Board phase 1.jpg
    The two empty slots are for the other 2 axial capacitors; the kit came with 2, 22uF caps but I thought that was overkill (?) so I bought two F&T 500V, 10uF caps to go in instead. Should be here today.

    How am i looking so far? Anything stand out yet about how I've populated? I've tried to keep the caps in the top holes (except the cathode bypass cap on the right) as they will eventually need to be replaced.
     
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  2. corliss1

    corliss1 Friend of Leo's Platinum Supporter

    Sep 13, 2008
    Lansing, MI
    Make as much space as you can between the bypass cap and resistor. That resistor will got hot and cook the cap.
     
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  3. jsnwhite619

    jsnwhite619 Friend of Leo's Ad Free Member

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    Cab looks great! My cap lineup for a Champ is 30uf - 22uf - 8 or 10uf. Basically a 5f2a lineup with extra punch in the middle. If you like humbuckers, 2-5uf on V1 bypass cap, and if it is too clean or muffled in the end, take the NFB to 33k-56k and it gains some extra treble and crunchier breakup, but lower headroom.

    Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
     
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  4. dunehunter

    dunehunter Tele-Meister Double Platinum Supporter

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    Are you talking about the Power Tube bypass cap? That darn resistor has such short leads--nothing cut off but still a stretch.
    I'll probably have to wind those resistor leads around the cap leads to give me some distance.
    Thanks, good eye!
     
  5. corliss1

    corliss1 Friend of Leo's Platinum Supporter

    Sep 13, 2008
    Lansing, MI
    Yup - power tube bypass cap.
     
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  6. dunehunter

    dunehunter Tele-Meister Double Platinum Supporter

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    So I'm looking for that crunchy, Champ vibe; going 15-10-10 (as I'm preparing to do currently) how will that change the output? I know on my SFDR, I felt that the use of higher than normal capacitance on the power side was giving the amp (this is pure speculation on my part) an overly clean sound that hardly broke up until I got to, like 8 on the volume. Breakup with the original spec seems to come earlier. But then, I did some other stuff to that amp too, so...
    What is the change in sound if I went, say, 22-22-10?
     
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  7. dunehunter

    dunehunter Tele-Meister Double Platinum Supporter

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    Thanks. I'll deal with that ASAP!
     
  8. jsnwhite619

    jsnwhite619 Friend of Leo's Ad Free Member

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    A 5f2a has paralleled 16uf caps for 32uf in that first B+ position, so you aren't going into any strange territory. It gives it more punch to my ears, but not cleaner.

    Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
     
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  9. dunehunter

    dunehunter Tele-Meister Double Platinum Supporter

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    That's interesting. I'm going to have a look at that 5F2A schematic.
     
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  10. KellyWalrus

    KellyWalrus TDPRI Member

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    Nov 2, 2018
    Metro-Detroit
    looks great! I had such a good time putting together my 5f1 kit, that I started on a 5E3.
     
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  11. dunehunter

    dunehunter Tele-Meister Double Platinum Supporter

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    Jason (@jsnwhite619 ): Just listened to your sound clip from an earlier post of your 30-22-8 5F1. Wow. Sounds super! And the extra capacitance sure didn't hurt the overdrive one darn bit. I'm curious how it sounds today with that Jensen broken in. I think I'm enthused now to go 22-22-10, which, I think is close to Dave's (@hackworth1 ) recommended lineup. I'm too excited now to wait on delivery of a 30 LOL.
     
  12. dunehunter

    dunehunter Tele-Meister Double Platinum Supporter

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    I know building the cab was a real hoot! I'll be curious about your 5E3 build.
     
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  13. jsnwhite619

    jsnwhite619 Friend of Leo's Ad Free Member

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    Georgia
    My observation with the cap change is that the extra capacitance helps add sustain/reduce sag. It doesn't run out of juice as quickly. I like keeping the preamp node on the stock side, but all for bumping up the others.

    The Jensen sounds great, but not enough volume for a band.
    Here is a clip with a 1058 that adds some dbs and is a bit cleaner. Kinda Tom Petty sounding to me.
    Listen to 5f2 - Tele by Jason White #np on #SoundCloud


    Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
     
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  14. dunehunter

    dunehunter Tele-Meister Double Platinum Supporter

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    Are you using the Hammond 290CAX in your 5F2 build?
     
  15. jsnwhite619

    jsnwhite619 Friend of Leo's Ad Free Member

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    Yes, that's got the CAX and ClassicTone OT. Voltages came out to maybe 1% of the old Champ layout/schematic voltages with the 275v tap.
     
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  16. dunehunter

    dunehunter Tele-Meister Double Platinum Supporter

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    Here is my solution with the power tube cathode resistor and bypass cap. And, frankly, it's about the best I could come up with because of ... space issues.

    Cathode resistor placement.jpg
    I've used the other dimension of the board, up and down to put space between the capacitor and the big 5W resistor and I've placed the resistor on the "resistor side" and the capacitor towards the big filter cap. This is really the best solution I could think of as the filter caps are creating a space issue:

    Circuit board space issues.jpg

    Note the position of the screw hole for mounting the circuit board to the chassis; it's going to fall right underneath my remaining filter cap. Not sure what to do about it except perhaps mounting before I install that remaining cap. Will make disassembly in the future a little difficult. Also note that, no, as per my prior pic, the bypass cap and capacitor are NOT touching.

    I think I may try to attach the 5W cap to the terminals instead of into the hole, though the holes are convenient...
     
  17. corliss1

    corliss1 Friend of Leo's Platinum Supporter

    Sep 13, 2008
    Lansing, MI
    Those boards are tiny enough you likely won't need all the mounting holes anyway. Even three screws, securely fashioned, should be more than enough to ever keep that board from moving.

    Or, drill a new one somewhere. No reason you haaaaaave to use what's provided.
     
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  18. dunehunter

    dunehunter Tele-Meister Double Platinum Supporter

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    True, of course!;)
     
  19. dunehunter

    dunehunter Tele-Meister Double Platinum Supporter

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    Flipped the board over, and attached all the "under-running wiring; these are now soldered in place and I have good continuity between turret and wire end.
    Circuit board back.jpg

    I haven't been filling the entire void with solder. Should I?
     
  20. King Fan

    King Fan Friend of Leo's Ad Free Member

    Jan 1, 2013
    Salt Lake City
    You may want to revise your components someday, or replace one that's soldered in the top.You don't want to fill the turret with solder. You do want to strip enough bottom wire that you can bend 2-4mm over the top where it forms a physical hook to prevent falling out and a visible indicator it hasn't!!!
     
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