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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by preeb, Apr 17, 2014.
Thank you guys!
Torture testing! Nice. You gotta know, right?
Brilliant idea drilling the tuner holes before headstock thicknessing. I've always been nervous drilling them in the past, not any longer! Ohh how I wish Shop Fox was still building these pin routers. Love the dual template and the neck joint with hidden ferrules too. Hope you and your family are doing well Gil!
Fantastic as usual!
Gil, what grit do you use on your swing-arm sander?
I'm liking it so far Gil,
What about using inserts and machine screws (for a 3 bolt)?
Also, with the birds eye, is it more likely to move during shaping? Do you need to remove wood slowly in stages to keep it square and true as compared to regular flat sawn necks?
Gil, I notice your plans don't have the bridge pickup at an angle. I've read that Leo's thinking was that this would help pick up the lower strings better since the closer to the bridge, the less the string travels.
It wouldn't make sense with P-90s, but it appears that at least with the Bolt-S you aren't planning on an angled bridge pup even with vintage style pickups?
Thanks Mark. Wish I bought a few of those when they were still around..
My busiest tool in the shop.
Thanks ratter. P60 grit
Joint is stronger with direct wood screw.
Birdseye is as stable as plain maple if dried properly.
The little eyes don't present inner tension disruption like wide flames do.
All maple necks move a little after machining and need a few days of rest before final truing.
Sharp tools and fresh abrasives are important because heat is the enemy.
Leo moved the bass side away from the bridge and kept the treble side very close so the high strings get a little harsh and ice picky at times...
The Bolt has the entire PU away from the bridge for a fuller bridge position EQ.
Not a lot of progress.. so I'll just share the hardware selection ideas..
I'm currently testing quite a few bridges, saddle materials, nuts and tuners.
Plan is to stay as close as possible to the old vintage bridge tone but still keeping the Bolt in perfect tuning even at extreme situations.
I'm using a Strat dummy guitar for the tests and things are beginning to clear out.
Nut will be made from the TUSQ XL material. Sounds like a bone but much more slippery if slots are cut correctly.
(The NuBone material I love for the Bone model didn't work as good for the Bolt).
For the bridge, the best ones I tested so far are the new Gotoh EV510T and EV510TS.
That new bridge from Gotoh has a high mass base which I believe is needed on a floating 2 point trem.
I initially wanted to test the ManMade bridges (also high mass) but never got a reply from them so I spoke to Gotoh and they sent the EV510's and I'm very happy it has turned out that way.
Still testing the saddles.. I tend to like the brass better than the steel on that bridge but I'll have to properly compare between them after the Bolt is completed and set-up.
The inertia blocks are quite different on those two bridges where the TS has the standard vintage style heavy steel block and the T has a new patented design which is lighter and prevents any friction or contact with the string past the saddle (between saddle and string ball end) which is important for perfect tuning.
I found that bridge to sound very good with both blocks and truth is.. I couldn't hear the difference at this stage. The T holds the tuning better.. actually, the tuning is 100% with the T.
For the tuners I'm still not sure. Two final choices are the SDS510-06M-N-HAPM and the SD91-06M-N-HAPM.
I will keep the same tuner button as the Bone (06M)
and definitely use the HAPM system because string tree is not a good idea when trying to stay in perfect tune (-;
here's a little info on HAPM:
It's a shame John Mann didn't get back with you. I have one of his tremolos on a Warmoth Jazzmaster (Lollar Jazzmaster pickups, but with a six screw strat style bridge) and it's my favorite guitar. it's set up to float according to Carl Verheyen's video instructions, and with a black Tusq nut, it's the most reliably tuned guitar I have ever seen. His bridges are quite nice. I also have a prototype hardtail bridge that he made on a Cabronita build I did. He makes great stuff. Maybe he will get back with you and you'll be able to test some of his stuff.
I'd love to try it of course!
I don't know him personally, just emailed twice through his website here:
after Matte sent me his way.
Those new Gotoh bridges are pretty amazing and like I mentioned above, I'm really happy with them. We'll see how it goes as nothing is final yet.. it's just the first proto (-;
I'm really enjoying this build Gil..... I see we share the same taste in shop footwear.... Nothing like a good pair of shop Crocs....
As long as you don't drop your chisel the crocks are fine
Please don't even think of it...
You are right Scooby... so when it happens I wouldn't say "I knew it!!!" (-;
Seriously, it is not wise to not use working shoes and other safety equipment and I'm sure that if I had employees in my shop it would have been the first thing on the list, but when it comes to ourselves we tend to be more forgiving or dare I say... lazy.
Oh, I hear you on that being lazy vs employee score. When I was running a framing crew I would have run screaming from across the job site if I had seen anyone doing what I was doing just before I fired that framing nail through my foot
Good reason to put lead weights at the ends of the handles on your chisels! Better a bruised toe than a severed one. That would make your Crocs fit funny.
Too humid to spray anything today so I have free time to continue with the Bolt tests.
Bridge positioning layout is printed
I usually like to mark the bridge drilling marks on the neck pocket template to keep things perfectly aligned so I use that template over the mounted neck and the body like this
and make sure the center line is overlapping
I have all the measurements and intonation compensation on the blueprint but I have never been able to trust computers.. LOL
I mark the high E string saddle line and carefully measure the location for the bridge anchor inserts. The two outer lines are the neck alignment marks
Bridge printout is glued and the various templates are cut for the bridge installation routing
I test the fit on the templates before cutting the proto
I try to keep everything to common hardware standards unless I believe a change is required so the back spring cavity and the top bridge routs are identical to a pre-CBS Strat. This will enable the fitting of various standard bridges down the road if the player chooses to do so.
The templates that were made are:
1- back spring cavity
2- top bridge opening
3- bridge anchor markings
I start with the back cavity dual routs.
First shallow rout
and secondary deep rout for the bridge inertia block
Next step is the top routing which is smaller but needs to perfectly align the back rout
Rough fitting of the bridge... I will need to adjust something in a minute..
Anchor inserts are drilled, waxed and hammered in
and here's the expected change I'll have to make.. the bar holder nut is a little outside the top rout line.
It's only 0.3mm so I pencil it and use a few strokes of a fine round file
All is good
Spring claw mounting screw holes are drilled
and I test the bridge for full range of smooth movement.. no clicks and no clacks (-;