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Bolt - new model proto build

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by preeb, Apr 17, 2014.

  1. preeb

    preeb Poster Extraordinaire Vendor Member

    Age:
    52
    Sep 10, 2008
    Sonoran Desert
    My pleasure. Thank you!
     

  2. preeb

    preeb Poster Extraordinaire Vendor Member

    Age:
    52
    Sep 10, 2008
    Sonoran Desert
    For guitar building I hope (-;
     

  3. preeb

    preeb Poster Extraordinaire Vendor Member

    Age:
    52
    Sep 10, 2008
    Sonoran Desert
    It takes at least 2-3 days for all the hide glue moisture to slowly evaporate and no further truing and radiusing should be done in that period to allow the neck to dry and relax.
    Any other operations can be performed though so I start by trimming the fingerboard flush with the neck

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    The glue line is inspected and I make sure the joint is tight and void free.
    The joint line itself will be gone after sanding.

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    This is how the headstock looks by now and it's about time to thickness it.
    I already drilled the tuner holes to exactly 0.6" (final HS should be 0.58" after final sanding) so they can't be seen on the face of the HS.

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    I rough the HS the old Fender way on the band saw.
    Gap is set to 0.6"

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    and the HS is sliced to about 1" away from the nut

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    Like this

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    and thicknessed down to the 0.6" tuner holes plane

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    Ferrule mounting holes are widened on the face side only

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    and I leave the back holes @ 1/4" (same as in pre-CBS Fenders)

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    Measured to make sure it's up to spec

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    The truss-rod nut spacer is now glued to the neck for 2 reasons:
    1 - prevent any rattle if the TR is completely loose (which is usually the case on my big profile necks)
    2 - prevent it from turning with the nut

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    Last edited: Apr 20, 2014

  4. preeb

    preeb Poster Extraordinaire Vendor Member

    Age:
    52
    Sep 10, 2008
    Sonoran Desert
    Did some sanding on the neck outline like I would normally do in a production build.
    This will very slightly reduce the size of the neck and may cause the neck to not sit very tightly in its pocket. To create the neck pocket pin router template I'll be using the sanded neck instead of the neck template and this way the fit will be exact.

    Two straight beams on each side of the neck are used to center it properly by measuring the end of the beams from the center line

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    once the angle is set, a third piece is pushed against the end of the neck after the truss rod nut is temporarily removed, and glued.

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    Like this

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    Template is flipped upside down and routed on the pin router using a 1/2" bit to follow the neck round over

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    I now test the fit to NASA standards(-;

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    The neck should slide in and keep its own weight without dropping

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    I like to use the same template for the neck pocket and PU routs, this way everything is perfectly aligned at setup, and since there's no way to play with the neck alignment because of the tight fit I must have the PU's centered.

    Since I make the PU's here I can control the size of the AirGaps and make my life easier... so the P90's and the Strat style single coils will have the same exact height.
    The Humbucker routing template will be separate. Using those two templates I'll be able to rout any PU combination.
    For the Strat PU's there will be an option to have them with or without a pickguard so there will be another template with Strat cavities and a connecting channel for the PU wires (same as in Fender Strats).

    I make dual pin height template for both P90's and Strat PU's. When the pin is low it will follow the lower step and when higher it will follow the inner step.
    The secondary rout for the P90's is not needed for the AirGaps..

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    Like I did with the neck pocket, I never trust the blueprint when making a template and rather use the actual parts. The P90 cover is used as a spacer
    (Yes.. it's Nickel plated brass P90 cover.. But I'll discuss the PU's later in this build)
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    and I use straight wood scrap material to follow the Strat PU rout outline

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    flip and rout..

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    I do the same with the P90 cavities outline, flip and rout.
    This time I rout only half as deep
    and this is what my dual template looks like

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    Truss-rod nut pocket extension is routed between the neck pocket and the PU cavity

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    Body is attached to the template and the neck pocket and 3 P90 cavities are done

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    Neck fit is very tight all around

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    Here's the undersized body heel. It will get even smaller when final shaped

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    PU cover fits nicely too

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    The one thing I already notice that can be improved is the truss-rod access cavity.. it's too wide and I believe the adjustment will be easy with only half the width of that slot.
    I'll bring it down to 3/4" (at the moment it is 1 1/2").
    So... fixing the templates (I also made a Humbucker template as mentioned)
    and the body is a must.
    I start by gluing material in the existing slot, when it dries it will be re routed.

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  5. Mxk116

    Mxk116 TDPRI Member

    78
    Apr 29, 2013
    OH
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    Now that it's routed the body shape is starting to grow on me.

    Definitely understand the desire to reduce the truss rod access cavity. From my experience adjusting the Bone truss rod not much more than the width of the nut is required for adequate access.

    Really like the birds-eye Maple; can't wait to see it finished.

    [​IMG]
     

  6. boredguy6060

    boredguy6060 Friend of Leo's

    Mar 28, 2012
    Sou Cal
    I tend to go for traditional shapes like LP's Tele's, Strat's, however,
    I really like this design, can't wait to see the finish.
    As many others have stated over and over, you are a very talented guitar builder, and very generous to share.
     

  7. BartS

    BartS Friend of Leo's

    Feb 18, 2013
    St. louis MO
    I always try to think of new designs in my head and haven't come up with one good one. I think that's just awesome. IT's just cool to see something new or something creative.
     

  8. thecableguy

    thecableguy Friend of Leo's

    Cool design Gil. What CAD software do you use for the drawings?
     

  9. preeb

    preeb Poster Extraordinaire Vendor Member

    Age:
    52
    Sep 10, 2008
    Sonoran Desert
    Thanks boredguy6060!
    I try to keep the design as traditional and simple as possible.
     

  10. preeb

    preeb Poster Extraordinaire Vendor Member

    Age:
    52
    Sep 10, 2008
    Sonoran Desert
    Thanks Mxk116.

    Which Bone do you play?
     

  11. preeb

    preeb Poster Extraordinaire Vendor Member

    Age:
    52
    Sep 10, 2008
    Sonoran Desert
    It's hard for me as well. Takes a long time to feel confident with a new design.
     

  12. preeb

    preeb Poster Extraordinaire Vendor Member

    Age:
    52
    Sep 10, 2008
    Sonoran Desert
    Thanks thecableguy,

    I have a license for old version of Photoshop software and I know it's a little insane using it when there are 10X better solutions for CAD designs ... (-;
     

  13. Mxk116

    Mxk116 TDPRI Member

    78
    Apr 29, 2013
    OH
    Why my favorite and most beautiful Bone of all, #008 of course!

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  14. preeb

    preeb Poster Extraordinaire Vendor Member

    Age:
    52
    Sep 10, 2008
    Sonoran Desert
    Templates are fixed.
    Narrower TR nut access cavity is routet

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    Much better (-;

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    Control cavity ouline helper template is carefully cut

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    and transferred to the working template
    It's routed through the template because it should be used on both back and top of the guitar depending build type, on the back for non pickguard builds and on the top for traditional pickguard models.

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    The back cover will be done for a dual step pin router operation and will be required on one side only for non pickguard builds.

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    Before I cut the cover template I need to run the routs on the body and use it for fitting the cover template.
    Body attached to the template and the pot holes are drilled first about 1/2" into the front

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    Pin height adjusted

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    and both routs are done

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    I rout the switch area 3/32" thinner than the pots

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    Looking nice and balanced to me

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    Back cover template is carefully shaped

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    until it snugly fits the body.

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    Switch slot and mounting holes are transferred from my old Strat pickguard template

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    like this

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    and the body is routed for its switch with a tiny cutter

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    like that

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    CRL switch is mounted and tested for a clean perfect fit

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    Pot is mounted as well to verify the top thickness is OK

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  15. preeb

    preeb Poster Extraordinaire Vendor Member

    Age:
    52
    Sep 10, 2008
    Sonoran Desert
    Hey MK, didn't know it was you (-; Great to see you here!
    Sometimes the internet is too anonymous... especially with usernames that sound like distant galaxy names.. LOL
     

  16. Mxk116

    Mxk116 TDPRI Member

    78
    Apr 29, 2013
    OH
    It's only me [​IMG]

    My wife tells me I'm from another planet and I won't say which one!

    I am very curious to see how this model is received; could keep you even more busy, if that is possible.
     

  17. preeb

    preeb Poster Extraordinaire Vendor Member

    Age:
    52
    Sep 10, 2008
    Sonoran Desert
    it appears the glue is all dry by now and the neck hasn't moved at all since glued so it is about time to machine it further. Figured maple tends to chip when routed so I double the RPM (I'd rather have some burn marks and bit sharpening than a chipped neck) and cut the neck profile to early 50's Double Esquire boat shape which is a very comfortable soft V with soft shoulders.

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    Feels real nice indeed

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    Board 9 1/2" radius is done on the swinging arm Jig the old school way which is still the best method TMHO. I initially wanted a slightly flatter radius (10-11) but decided to keep it closer to the older necks which were 9 1/2" (in 1950 it was 9 1/2" and Leo changed to 7 1/4" a year later)

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    I let the neck cool down in the jig and make sure it's 100% straight

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    as it cools down I radius the frets to 9 1/2" and cut the wire to fret lengths

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    Fret slots and dot markings are cut and drilled

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    Black fiber dots are cut

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    and glued in

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    same thing with the side dots. I use a 3/32" fiber rod so no need to punch them

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    when the glue dries the marking dots are sanded flush

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    Frets are 0.095" wide and 0.055" tall 18% NS with a very short tang (0.040") and they get installed sideways

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    Only takes a few minutes for a well seated fret wire without any hammering and other violent acts (-;

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    (weird how the camera distorts the proportions when taking close shots.. )
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    This tool is just a file with a wood frame I made for beveling fret ends

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    Fret ends are flushed and beveled to ~ 30°

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    I slightly vevel the fingerboard edge as well to get that old Fender neck feel

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    Note that the fret slots are cut exactly 0.040" deep to get a perfect void free fit for the fret tangs.

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    Headstock transition is done on this Jig and allows for free hand tilt

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    it's required in order to get a straight transition line behind the nut, otherwise the line will be 9 1/2" radiused from frontal perspective.
    Also note that the glue line is invisible at this point (-;

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    Neck profile is initially cut on the pin router but the final shaping I like to do by hand to get a feel for it until I'm happy. It starts with the heel and HS transitions.
    The body heel outline is penciled

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    and I run it on the face sander to rough the transition cuts

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    Like this

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    Next I'll be using a Japanese file

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    and smooth the transitions further

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    The neck is final sanded with a palm sander until it feels "right" to me

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    It's always nice to have a look at a new model for the first time... (-;

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    The weight is very low as expected @ 4.69 Lbs

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    The cutaway access area is not final shaped yet but it already feels good and this guitar will definitely have a very easy higher register access up to the 22nd fret

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    Nut width is correct to spec and a tiny bit wider than the old Fenders (which I personally prefer).

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 22, 2014

  18. zipseattle

    zipseattle TDPRI Member

    93
    May 23, 2013
    Crazytown, USA
    This is extremely cool! The heel/neck interface is brilliant. I may have missed it in an earlier post, but what is the body wood? Paulownia?
     

  19. Mxk116

    Mxk116 TDPRI Member

    78
    Apr 29, 2013
    OH

  20. whodatpat

    whodatpat Friend of Leo's

    Jul 21, 2007
    College Park MD
    Idea of the day I shall steal from you is the sideways fret job. Not that I will master it. But I shall try it. :)
     

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