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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by preeb, Apr 17, 2014.
My pleasure. Thank you!
For guitar building I hope (-;
It takes at least 2-3 days for all the hide glue moisture to slowly evaporate and no further truing and radiusing should be done in that period to allow the neck to dry and relax.
Any other operations can be performed though so I start by trimming the fingerboard flush with the neck
The glue line is inspected and I make sure the joint is tight and void free.
The joint line itself will be gone after sanding.
This is how the headstock looks by now and it's about time to thickness it.
I already drilled the tuner holes to exactly 0.6" (final HS should be 0.58" after final sanding) so they can't be seen on the face of the HS.
I rough the HS the old Fender way on the band saw.
Gap is set to 0.6"
and the HS is sliced to about 1" away from the nut
and thicknessed down to the 0.6" tuner holes plane
Ferrule mounting holes are widened on the face side only
and I leave the back holes @ 1/4" (same as in pre-CBS Fenders)
Measured to make sure it's up to spec
The truss-rod nut spacer is now glued to the neck for 2 reasons:
1 - prevent any rattle if the TR is completely loose (which is usually the case on my big profile necks)
2 - prevent it from turning with the nut
Did some sanding on the neck outline like I would normally do in a production build.
This will very slightly reduce the size of the neck and may cause the neck to not sit very tightly in its pocket. To create the neck pocket pin router template I'll be using the sanded neck instead of the neck template and this way the fit will be exact.
Two straight beams on each side of the neck are used to center it properly by measuring the end of the beams from the center line
once the angle is set, a third piece is pushed against the end of the neck after the truss rod nut is temporarily removed, and glued.
Template is flipped upside down and routed on the pin router using a 1/2" bit to follow the neck round over
I now test the fit to NASA standards(-;
The neck should slide in and keep its own weight without dropping
I like to use the same template for the neck pocket and PU routs, this way everything is perfectly aligned at setup, and since there's no way to play with the neck alignment because of the tight fit I must have the PU's centered.
Since I make the PU's here I can control the size of the AirGaps and make my life easier... so the P90's and the Strat style single coils will have the same exact height.
The Humbucker routing template will be separate. Using those two templates I'll be able to rout any PU combination.
For the Strat PU's there will be an option to have them with or without a pickguard so there will be another template with Strat cavities and a connecting channel for the PU wires (same as in Fender Strats).
I make dual pin height template for both P90's and Strat PU's. When the pin is low it will follow the lower step and when higher it will follow the inner step.
The secondary rout for the P90's is not needed for the AirGaps..
Like I did with the neck pocket, I never trust the blueprint when making a template and rather use the actual parts. The P90 cover is used as a spacer
(Yes.. it's Nickel plated brass P90 cover.. But I'll discuss the PU's later in this build)
and I use straight wood scrap material to follow the Strat PU rout outline
flip and rout..
I do the same with the P90 cavities outline, flip and rout.
This time I rout only half as deep
and this is what my dual template looks like
Truss-rod nut pocket extension is routed between the neck pocket and the PU cavity
Body is attached to the template and the neck pocket and 3 P90 cavities are done
Neck fit is very tight all around
Here's the undersized body heel. It will get even smaller when final shaped
PU cover fits nicely too
The one thing I already notice that can be improved is the truss-rod access cavity.. it's too wide and I believe the adjustment will be easy with only half the width of that slot.
I'll bring it down to 3/4" (at the moment it is 1 1/2").
So... fixing the templates (I also made a Humbucker template as mentioned)
and the body is a must.
I start by gluing material in the existing slot, when it dries it will be re routed.
Now that it's routed the body shape is starting to grow on me.
Definitely understand the desire to reduce the truss rod access cavity. From my experience adjusting the Bone truss rod not much more than the width of the nut is required for adequate access.
Really like the birds-eye Maple; can't wait to see it finished.
I tend to go for traditional shapes like LP's Tele's, Strat's, however,
I really like this design, can't wait to see the finish.
As many others have stated over and over, you are a very talented guitar builder, and very generous to share.
I always try to think of new designs in my head and haven't come up with one good one. I think that's just awesome. IT's just cool to see something new or something creative.
Cool design Gil. What CAD software do you use for the drawings?
I try to keep the design as traditional and simple as possible.
Which Bone do you play?
It's hard for me as well. Takes a long time to feel confident with a new design.
I have a license for old version of Photoshop software and I know it's a little insane using it when there are 10X better solutions for CAD designs ... (-;
Why my favorite and most beautiful Bone of all, #008 of course!
Templates are fixed.
Narrower TR nut access cavity is routet
Much better (-;
Control cavity ouline helper template is carefully cut
and transferred to the working template
It's routed through the template because it should be used on both back and top of the guitar depending build type, on the back for non pickguard builds and on the top for traditional pickguard models.
The back cover will be done for a dual step pin router operation and will be required on one side only for non pickguard builds.
Before I cut the cover template I need to run the routs on the body and use it for fitting the cover template.
Body attached to the template and the pot holes are drilled first about 1/2" into the front
Pin height adjusted
and both routs are done
I rout the switch area 3/32" thinner than the pots
Looking nice and balanced to me
Back cover template is carefully shaped
until it snugly fits the body.
Switch slot and mounting holes are transferred from my old Strat pickguard template
and the body is routed for its switch with a tiny cutter
CRL switch is mounted and tested for a clean perfect fit
Pot is mounted as well to verify the top thickness is OK
Hey MK, didn't know it was you (-; Great to see you here!
Sometimes the internet is too anonymous... especially with usernames that sound like distant galaxy names.. LOL
It's only me
My wife tells me I'm from another planet and I won't say which one!
I am very curious to see how this model is received; could keep you even more busy, if that is possible.
it appears the glue is all dry by now and the neck hasn't moved at all since glued so it is about time to machine it further. Figured maple tends to chip when routed so I double the RPM (I'd rather have some burn marks and bit sharpening than a chipped neck) and cut the neck profile to early 50's Double Esquire boat shape which is a very comfortable soft V with soft shoulders.
Feels real nice indeed
Board 9 1/2" radius is done on the swinging arm Jig the old school way which is still the best method TMHO. I initially wanted a slightly flatter radius (10-11) but decided to keep it closer to the older necks which were 9 1/2" (in 1950 it was 9 1/2" and Leo changed to 7 1/4" a year later)
I let the neck cool down in the jig and make sure it's 100% straight
as it cools down I radius the frets to 9 1/2" and cut the wire to fret lengths
Fret slots and dot markings are cut and drilled
Black fiber dots are cut
and glued in
same thing with the side dots. I use a 3/32" fiber rod so no need to punch them
when the glue dries the marking dots are sanded flush
Frets are 0.095" wide and 0.055" tall 18% NS with a very short tang (0.040") and they get installed sideways
Only takes a few minutes for a well seated fret wire without any hammering and other violent acts (-;
(weird how the camera distorts the proportions when taking close shots.. )
This tool is just a file with a wood frame I made for beveling fret ends
Fret ends are flushed and beveled to ~ 30°
I slightly vevel the fingerboard edge as well to get that old Fender neck feel
Note that the fret slots are cut exactly 0.040" deep to get a perfect void free fit for the fret tangs.
Headstock transition is done on this Jig and allows for free hand tilt
it's required in order to get a straight transition line behind the nut, otherwise the line will be 9 1/2" radiused from frontal perspective.
Also note that the glue line is invisible at this point (-;
Neck profile is initially cut on the pin router but the final shaping I like to do by hand to get a feel for it until I'm happy. It starts with the heel and HS transitions.
The body heel outline is penciled
and I run it on the face sander to rough the transition cuts
Next I'll be using a Japanese file
and smooth the transitions further
The neck is final sanded with a palm sander until it feels "right" to me
It's always nice to have a look at a new model for the first time... (-;
The weight is very low as expected @ 4.69 Lbs
The cutaway access area is not final shaped yet but it already feels good and this guitar will definitely have a very easy higher register access up to the 22nd fret
Nut width is correct to spec and a tiny bit wider than the old Fenders (which I personally prefer).
This is extremely cool! The heel/neck interface is brilliant. I may have missed it in an earlier post, but what is the body wood? Paulownia?
First post, "For this proto build I'll be using a very lightweight one piece Swamp-Ash body."
Idea of the day I shall steal from you is the sideways fret job. Not that I will master it. But I shall try it.