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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by preeb, Apr 17, 2014.
Yippee! Another guitar or two from Gil to drool over...
cool. I'm jealous of your vast collection of wood. I wonder how much your stash is worth...
Fantastic, Gil! I look forward to what I'll learn here.
A couple things:
The name - Carvin already has a guitar line called Bolt
The neck join - anything fancy like Anderson's A-wedgie coming? Or will it be a more "standard" flat tenon joint?
Yes, I'm really excited to see your neck join solution. Fender's standard heel/pocket design has never been very comfortable for me and my little hands.
Gil is a virtuoso. So proud to own several of his builds. See a Bolt in my future.
Neck is made of figured hard maple and can either have a BRRW or a maple board.
In case of a maple board I will use the same neck blank for both neck and board which is also the case for this proto.
and very carefully smoothed keeping the neck edges 100% flat.
Tuner holes and mounting screw holes are drilled and the two index pin holes are drilled as well in the headstock and neck heel
1 1/4" maple stock with nice birdseye figuring..
and sliced open to separate the fingerboard from the neck.
I will later reverse the two parts to get a stronger and more stable neck.
I make sure the board is 100% straight as it should be.
Those maple blanks were air dried and gradually thicknessed for 5 years!!
Both parts are trued and thicknessed in the drum sander
Nice and flat..
Notice that I haven't trimmed the blank prior to slicing it. The reason for that is to prevent the cutting from splitting the clean surfaced trimmed edge.
both parts should measure a little over 1"
I sliced the board off of the back of the neck and I now flip it to the front.
Using a flipped split maple gives a much more stable neck because the natural tendency to move in a certain direction is now balanced by the reversal.
Neck part is spiral trimmed
tuner holes.. etc..
I add a 3/16" channel to the bottom of the neck template
Shim the heel end by 1/8" to get a deeper truss-rod channel in the heel area and rout a straight (Yes.. 50's Gibson type straight..) rod channel on the pin router
Rod is heated
Pressed and hardened in cold oil
I cut the excess off like this to create the anchor (same as the Bone truss rod)
I use the excess part of the rod in the channel and hide glue a short fillet over it.
As the glue sets, the short rod ( used as gluing spacer ) is removed and a 3/4" diameter shallow cut is made with a spot facer
and followed by a 3/8" spot facer
I now test the drilling depth with the spoke wheel TR nut.
It should come in contact with both the bottom of the drill and the 3/4" brass spacer.
This way the pressure is spread across a larger area preventing excessive wood compression that can lead to neck issues down the road.
The truss rod is deeped in bee's wax and pushed into the slot
Long fillet part is hide glued and lightly clamped
The Bolt truss-rod is running from the nut to the end of the heel and will affect the entire playing area of the neck (unlike the traditional F designs where the compression is about 1" away from both ends)
As the wood cures I sand the bottom of the neck flat
and remove the little part of the brass spacer under the heel
Another last trip to the drum sander to shave the fillet and true the neck surface
The sanding is a little coarse and I need to scrape the neck and board surfaces before gluing in order to get a seamless glue line
320 hide glue is used for the fingerboard joint and it gels in about 10 seconds... so I have to heat the neck to get a few extra seconds before it is clamped
Sorry, but no photos while gluing.. but here's the monster sandwich clamp
All the glue is squeezed out by quickly tightening the clamp
and inspecting the glue line through the squeezed glue (it acts as a magnifier) making sure it's void free.
It will need to cure for at least 24 hours in a hot room to make sure all the moisture is out before releasing it from the jig.
Amazing - this is going to be fantastic.
Gil, looking down my list of subscribed threads on TDPRI, they are all your builds. This one is no exception - can't wait to see how this turns out.
Hugh!!! That's a torture machine!!!
I am not sure that I understood this correctly...
When you say :"Shim the heel end by 1/8" to get a deeper truss-rod channel in the heel area and rout a straight (Yes.. 50's Gibson type straight..) rod channel on the pin router", you mean the truss rod channel is straight (no curved bottom) but closer to the fingerboard by 1/8" on the heel side?
I am really happy that you started a new thread: a lot more to learn and enjoy for all of us.
A straight channel with the rod being closer to the board on the nut side and deeper on the heel side.
Ohhh... I had it the other way around...
Hence the brass washer being over the edge! - Duh. I thought you'd drilled it wrong for a 'mo, there.
It would still work fine the other way around... but the neck tapers toward the nut and it's better to follow it in case someone wants a thinner neck.
Haha... no.. I measure 10 times, draw it 20 times and only then cut (-;
I prefer a larger spacer to spread the truss-rod pressure as much as possible.
Ton of great info here. Pics are super. Thanks again
I don't know if they are related but a guy named Wayne Bolt built Bolt Guitars back in the early 90's or something.
I hope that isn't going to be a problem for you Gil.
I am sure Gil has chosen the name as an homage to a jamaican guy named Husain who is lightning fast!!!
Your attention to detail is always wonderful. The documentation....the thought behind the action...
Great guitar design Gil. Love the "sandwich clamp" too. I'll have to make one of those soon. :idea: