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Discussion in 'Tele-Technical' started by benadrian, Oct 24, 2008.
That is actually readable.
Drawn by me.
Nice Drawing !...and here's what Poor repair guys like me see, when we remove those 2 little screws.....
Oh yes. The wiring could be much neater. In my guitar, there's at least twice the necessary length between the wiper of the volume pot and the output jack.
Sometime soon I'll replace the tone with a no-load, put in a better tone cap, and clean up/shield the guitar. Of course, this means it'll take a year.
Also, I'm not exactly sure of the function .01 uf cap on the S1 switch. It's only active in the out of phase, both pickups in parallel setting. Is it for tonality, or is it to stop a DC charge/loud pop when flipping between in and out of phase?
I don't see any schematic. Could you please repost our pm it to me? I'm having trouble figuring out whats going on with the S1 switch on fender's diagram.
Try again. My web server was down for about 12 hours.
This is what I have:
Here's the Fender schematic..........
Fender Baja Schematic PDF
Thanks everyone. I can see the diagram now benadrian. Would the S1 switch still work for phase reversal if I used a DPDT switch and left out the part with the 0.01uF cap?
Yes. And the wire that runs from the four position selector to the S-1 position that your eliminating can just be grounded.
Extra switch function within the S1 switch
What does that wire do? I mean the one drawn as orange in your excellent diagram.
I removed my S1 switch from my Baja soon after I got it and recently installed a DPDT push pull switch. However, I didn't do anything with the second part of the S1 switch and effectively I have no orange wire in my setup.
The sound from my out of phase positions is not right however. The sound is very treble rich and unpleasant. Otherwise the wiring seems to work OK. The resistances read what I would expect. Having now seen your circuit diagram I am wondering if I should ground the pin on the 4 way switch that goes to the orange switch.
Can anyone comment on this orange wire connection?
Also how does the 4 way switch in the diagram function? I.e. which contacts are made with each of the 4 position?
NB One other thing. The bridge pickup has no shield as far as I can tell. The -ve is taken straight to ground.
The orange wire connects the 0.01uf cap to the out of phase signal when the switch is in the parallel option. Acts as a passive treble cut.
Guess you could take out the cap/orange wire, for a normal OoP sound.
Also, if you want, replace the light green wire in the schem for a 0.01uf cap ala Bill Lawrence, or a 6k8 with a 0.01uf in series like the Jerry Donahue Tele
Hmmm, need to get me one of these, seems more convenient than a push/pull
If that is the case then why is there a treble cut in there?
If I understand the circuit diagram correctly, the S1 in the Baja is 2 distinct switches - a DPDT switch to provide the crossing of the phase and also a SPST switch that grounds the orange wire when in the "in phase" position and connects the orange wire via a 0.01uF cap to ground when in the "out of phase" position.
Anyone know what terminals the orange wire connects to in the 4 positions?
Here's a little S1 mod for that circuit using the spare S1 pole
The additional 103 cap is in series with the neck pup solo and parallel when the S1 is down.
Could you please explain why the original 103 (0.01uF) is there in the original Baja S1 circuit and also what your mod does?
I am still surprised that the 103 cap in the Baja plays a part in the S1 switch as I always thought that the S1 switch was just a neck pickup phase crossover switch and nothing more.
The S1 switch is a quadruple pole, double throw switch which can be wired to do a variety of tasks. In short, in the Baja, it is a neck pickup phase reversal, which only uses two of the poles. However, for whatever reason, Fender didn't like the out of phase sound for the parallel position. Using one of the poles, it switches the ground of the neck pickup to run through a .01uf cap ONLY in parallel position and ONLY when it's out of phase.
In all honestly, I don't know what this does to the tone. The easiest way to find out is to get a jumper wire with alligator clips and jumper around this cap. Of course, since you have removed it, you'd have to re-install it first.
A question from a somewhat electronically ignorant tinkerer. I'm working on my Baja this week and may want to shield the cavities.
Is it worth the time to shield the cavities, and with this circuit do you still need to run a ground from the neck cavity? The bridge does not need one given the ground from the bridge serves that purpose?
I'm guessing since OoP pups are known to have that high thinned out sound, Fender decided to place a passive treble cut into the parallel combo. Guess it wasn't needed when in the other selections.
Looked up these on evilbay, thats alot for a pot/switch
Wouldn't be a bad idea to shield the neck cavity as well. If you don't have the room for a ground wire, or don't want to run one, place a strip of the same shielding tape under the pickguard from the neck cavity to the bridge cavity, and have a piece folded up over the cavity lip to connect to the pickguard when its on
I checked out the wiring in my Baja and the selector switch was wired differently to that shown in the Fender schematic. I drew it out and have attached the drawing below. As far as I can tell from trying it, measuring it and looking at it, it functions the same way as the wiring in the Fender schematic. Mine had tabs b and c wired together as a ground but in the Fender schematic it looks like there is a link just where the 14 points to.
I'm still perplexed why my rewired phase switch doesn't sound right in the out of phase positions. I guess that 0.01uF cap between ground in the S1 switch system is needed to make it sound good.
Real out-of-phase "quack" mod for a Fender Baja Tele
Hello blues guitar players,
Not satisfied with the lame sounding out-of-phase "quack" in positions 2 & 4 with the S1 switch activated, here's the mod to get the real out-of-phase "quack" and get those trademark T-Bone Walker & Johnny Guitar Watson "nasal" sounding blues tones out of your Fender Baja Tele.
Replace the 0,01 µF ceramic disc cap on the S1 switch with a wire, simple as that, the real out-of-phase "quack" in positions 2 & 4 is much better sounding after this mod.
I've also changed the 0,05 µF ceramic disc tone cap to a 0,022 µF / 630 V orange drop tone cap, this mod brightens the overall sound and makes the tone control more usable and less muddy when turning it completely down.
My 2006 Fender Baja Tele (Desert Sand) is also lightweight (3 kilogram) and rings like a bell, a real tonemonster with sustainnnnnnnnnn, what a great guitar.
Don't look for any other Fender Telecaster, if you can find a lightweight Fender Baja Tele, just buy it, this is the real deal.
No further mods, I only put heavier D'addario EXL115 011-049 strings on it, and raised the action of the strings for a better tone and easier string bending, a real blues screamer, yeahhhhhhhhhh.
That 10nF cap (0.01 uF) is there as a high pass filter (=low cut) for the neck pu when phase inverted.
This way, less lows are substracted when out of phase and summed to the bridge pu.
In fact, with the S-1 switch you can use the remaining pole to switch a resistor in series with the bridge pu when o.o.ph. (while adding the same value resistor in series to the existing .01 cap)
The two resistors soften the peak created at the filter's corner freq, determined by the value of the cap.
The resistors are optional. Use both or none.
search for "controlled out of phase", "half out of phase", etc.