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Discussion in 'Telecaster Discussion Forum' started by gobi_grey, Dec 7, 2017.
Return. $700, I want museum quality.
The lower strings are pretty close, high strings are really shallow. Not a big deal. It's better than being cut too deep I guess.
This sucks. If not for the crack I could overlook the other stuff and still feel like I got a nice neck. Not sure where to turn now. Prolly just have to get an actual fender neck. Most custom brands have their own headstock shape which I don't really care for.
I've purchased two Fender USA Am Std necks and have been very happy with them. While some don't favor the "modern C", it's what I grew up with and like. Perhaps because they're a part, I've also been able to avail myself of various pretty good sale discounts at MF or GC to reduce the bite.
I have seen better work on the parted out necks from Stratosphere.
Looks good to me, show the whole neck please.
I sent it back. How does that look good to you? The finish sinks down into the crack so that the light catches it making it stick out like a sore thumb. Looks like a butt crack. The rest of the neck looked great. Aside from the blemish on the 14th fret and the sharp fret ends. Nice wood and great color. If it didn't have a butt crack I would have liked to keep it. Almost looks like they filles the crack with glue. Yuck, just reminds me of having something stuck between my front teeth.
Too bad, maybe Stratosphere will get some roasted Fender necks. If I had the funds, I would try to snag that one when it goes to fleabay.
A similar neck from Warmoth (minus the tuners) comes to $402, but I specced all the most expensive features, like SRV profile (+$40), GraphTech TUSQ nut (+$30) & Vintage Tint Satin Nitro finish (+$30 over clear) and the upcharge for radius would only be if you want a "straight radius" as the compound is included free! $700 for almost any neck is bending you over, stuffing it in sideways (with the jagged fret ends) and with no Vaseline!
You didn't mention what finish you chose or the neck profile. I can tell you that I've gotten several necks from Warmoth and all were great, except the inevitable fret sprout that needs to be dealt with on a neck that comes from "humid" Washington State, to the dry desert of Las Vegas. In my situation, I need to get necks "unfinished" (saves about $100), let the wood acclimatize for a couple months, cure the sprout and finish it myself! Rattle can lacquer or poly will do pretty nicely.
At the very least, you should go to the Warmoth site and get to the "Build Your Own Neck" page and spec it like you want, then get back to us to let us know what you come up with!
Just My $.02,
Just clear gloss nitro and no special profile however I did have them change the profile on the second neck to a more slim but still huge D shape which they said was more expensive but they didn't charge since it was replacing a faulty neck.
Go to the Musikfrat page and build one. It gets real expensive real fast.
As for Warmoth. I don't like their headstocks. I wanted an accurate shape.
so if that is the quality control from musikfrat I would run away fast.
My Warmoth neck is licensed by Fender....as far as I can tell the headstock is true to authentic.
Pitiful zero sum approach to QC. Ship it and worry about it being sub standard only if the customer is smart enough to figure it out.
The sad aspect is that seems to be the best explanation for shipping crap out, no less in this price range. And it is working for them perhaps...
And twice? Triple shame on mu-sick-craps in my book.
A super-expensive neck is knocking on $400.
I paid $325 for a huge monster with a slab rw board from Warmoth and felt a little guilty.
I've always heard Musik-raft was expensive so I avoided them.
Now I know why.
Should be perfect for that much scratch...
I'll give them another look.
I did a quick build estimate on the Warmoth site, and got this. Your options may vary.
Construction: Vintage/Modern Construction
Scale: 25-1/2 in.
Shaft Wood: Roasted Maple
Fretboard Wood: Roasted Maple (One Piece)
Right/Left: Right Handed
Nut Width: 1-11/16"
Neck Profile: Boatneck
Radius: Straight 9.5"
# of Frets: 22
Fret Size: SS6105 (Stainless)
Tuner Ream: Schaller (25/64" 11/32")
Inlays: Black Mother Of Pearl Dots
Side Dots: Mother Of Pearl Side Dots
Pre-Cut Installed String Nut: GraphTech White TUSQ XL - Standard Nut
Mounting Holes: Standard 4 Bolt
Finish: Vintage Tint Gloss
I bet that's a check in the wood from drying that didn't show up until the carving took place.
Just a guess, the plug was drier than the maple and roasting shrunk the maple more than the plug wood.. I am thinking when I make walnut plugs they get pretty hot and being a lot of surface area shrink while the heat of my plug bit cooks the little piece.
I paid more than $700 for a neck once, but there's a bit of rarity and provenence behind it, and I have somewhat of a collection in that specific maker going. So, although I'm probably just about the guy who would pay that price, it's also a real slim market up there, and I'm not buying anymore.
Otherwise, you can get an awful lot of player grade behind a neck for far less than $500. I'd say that generally, at $700, it's like going to a steakhouse. You're paying for them to get it exactly right, and it shouldn't bother them to do it again until they do. And honestly, I'd expect a signature of some value on it, as well. They have to be representing it as the best work they do for that price, and I'd have to be able to point to that in a future sale.
Looks like a holiday during the grain fill stage of finishing, oh well, there are more fish in the water and I wish the OP well in finding one he likes.