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Another New 5F1 Boot Hill Build

Discussion in 'Shock Brother's DIY Amps' started by bermuda, Jan 2, 2018.

  1. bermuda

    bermuda TDPRI Member

    Age:
    53
    49
    May 15, 2017
    Florida
    Hi - Since I tackled a 5E3 build I will feed my new addiction with a 5F1 build lol. Also will using a bee box for a cabinet mentioned here in another thread and a 10" alnico speaker. Please check out my initial board layout before I solder and let me know if any issues are spotted - would be much appreciated.

    20180102_232330.jpg
     

  2. bermuda

    bermuda TDPRI Member

    Age:
    53
    49
    May 15, 2017
    Florida
    Hi - does anyone know if it matters which way the orange drop caps go?

    Thanks
     

  3. clintj

    clintj Friend of Leo's

    Apr 4, 2015
    Idaho
    Soldering resistors to cap leads is not a good practice. It puts soldering heat close to the cap bodies, and complicates later maintenance. Make sure there's ample clearance around those e-caps too - heat is the enemy.

    The second thing is my personal preference: I install all electrolytic caps in the turret top holes to allow easy replacement later.

    Orange Drops are not polarized, so either way is fair game.

    Your turret method looks sound. Slight amount of slack in the leads, and good wrapping. Thumbs up there.
     

  4. bermuda

    bermuda TDPRI Member

    Age:
    53
    49
    May 15, 2017
    Florida
    Hi - thanks for the reply. Should the eaps bu up off the board? there isnt much wiggle room from side to side. Also how would i get around connecting the resistors to same turret as the cap leads?

    I see you have a tweed bassman - did you build it?


    Really appreciate the help here.
     

  5. clintj

    clintj Friend of Leo's

    Apr 4, 2015
    Idaho
    Well, they do have to be on the same turret for electrical reasons. There's a few options for creating space, though.

    Wrap the resistor around the lowest tier of the turret, and mount the cap up top.

    Think laterally. Move the resistor over to one side, and the cap to the other side.

    I'm talking specifically about the green resistor for the power tubes and its associated cap here, roughly middle of the board. That resistor gets super hot, and needs space to avoid cooking adjacent things.

    All the way to the right, where you have the resistor leads wrapped around the cap leads, is not good technique.

    I'll see if I can resize a pic of some turret board work for some examples and add it to this reply.
     

  6. clintj

    clintj Friend of Leo's

    Apr 4, 2015
    Idaho
    First pic is some turret work. On the far right, there's actually about 1/8" of vertical space between the resistor and cap.

    Second pic is the Bassman. It's basically a Mojotone kit, with some upgrades and an added bias pot, along with modernized grounding. Robrob has a great layout for these on his site, and I pretty much ditched the included layout and worked from his. IMG_20180109_205948.jpg IMG_20180109_210225.jpg
     

  7. bermuda

    bermuda TDPRI Member

    Age:
    53
    49
    May 15, 2017
    Florida
    Ok understand now - the green resister in the middle is raised up a good bit to be away from the cap but the photo doesn't show it well. I'll fix the one on the right like you have yours setup.

    Man that bassman looks nice - i bet it sounds nice with the 4x10's - ive been debating building one for my next build or a tweed bandmaster - can't decide lol.

    again, thanks for your help.
     
    clintj likes this.

  8. clintj

    clintj Friend of Leo's

    Apr 4, 2015
    Idaho
    Thanks. There's a build thread from that amp back around February or so if you want to see how it went. It's a great sounding amp - loud as heck, too.
     

  9. jjmantele

    jjmantele Tele-Holic

    985
    Aug 23, 2003
    New Jersey
    There are different types of "orange drops." Although they are not "polarized," some/all have one lead that is more of a shield than the other. I just confirmed this with my new tiny digital scope. Same with Mallorys. "Outer Foil" is the jargon for what provides the shielding. There are videos on how to test to see which is the outer foil. Some coupler caps have that side/lead marked with a stripe on the body. The outer foil lead should go to the "lower impedance" side, which is some more jargon. In this case, to the plates.


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